Clutch questions, adjuster and releaase fork question

[Bruce M]

1990 SHO 3.0L MTX.

I have replaced many ATX’s in these SHO’s and other vehicles along with and a bunch of other stuff as well but I never pulled out a manual tranny from a SHO.

The release bearing let go in a 90 MTX. Having done a ton of work on standards over years ago I tackled this job. Last clutch that I did however was in a 1983 ranger so it’s been a while. Everything came apart as advertised, had to install new manifold studs, and did an oil pan gasket and a host of other things while I had the tranny out. Took my time putting everything back together, lining up the tranny shaft to the clutch like you’re are suppose to and I was very careful at every step of the way. Tranny lined up nice and went together without any binding jamming or use of force. Attached the clutch cable and now I have no clutch or spring action, I did prop up the pedal as instructed in the SHO factory manual, but I think I may have released the self adjuster, I have never fooled with on of those. So question 1) if self adjuster has been damaged how would you know and can it be fixed, and question 2 is with a new clutch how much travel is there on the release fork that the clutch cable attached to, from sitting with no pressure on the clutch pedal to a fully depressed clutch pedal how far does the release fork move with a new clutch. With a new clutch where would the release folk want or sit without any pressure on the pedal, you know; like would it be parallel with the fin that holds the clutch cable insulator/nylon bushing, slightly forward, slightly toward the fin.

I did not study the action of the clutch, the cable or release fork nor did look at the pedal and self adjusting mechanism at all before doing this and now I know now that I should have.

I basically have no pedal or clutch right now and I would like someone who has done a bunch of these to chime in with tangible information that might help me if you would

Thanks
Bruce M

 

[Racer X]

Which clutch kit did you use, and which version of the release bearing did you use?

One kit has the bearing and a sleeve that fits over the quill, the other is a bearing that just rides along the quill.

Also, when reassembling the release fork and shaft, did you tighten the bolt properly? If that bolt sheared or is missing, that could cause issues as well.

Lastly, there's the adjuster. The spring for the pawl is known to go. If you see a broken spring in the pedal assy, you may have your answer as to what went wrong.

 

[Ishodu]

The first time I pulled my tranny I found my adjuster was not working and gave me the same issue you are having. If you look behind the channel of the clutch pedal there might be a large spring disconnected or broken its tough to see. You can lift up the clutch pedal and in the adjuster assembly there is a blue half moon shaped gear. You can push it up and it will tension the cable when you have the pedal lifted up with out the spring connected. But if you ever lift up on the pedal it will loose tension.

 

[rubydist]

Also, with a new clutch in there, it should have been somewhat challenging to get the clutch release cable over the fork on the release arm at the trans. If that was not the case, then either something inside the clutch housing is not attached properly, or the adjuster cam is completely broken/non-functional. iirc, one time I had the cable slip out of the adjuster mechanism, so that the cable was effectively not attached at the clutch pedal end. You might check for that as well.

 

[Bruce M]

The Clutch kit that I used had a steal sleeve that I installed over the quill, I was careful in doing that. To the other question as to wheither I had diffaculty putting the clutch cable over the realease fork. No I did not, I could push the fork by hand toward the firewall to within an inch and an half or so from where the clutch cable leaves the nylon bushing on top the tranny. It easily slipped over the fork. The clutch pedal goes back and forth from the floor to the top with no spring tension at all. I can see this "blue half moon shaped gear" atop the pedal and I can see the inboard end of the cable attached to the top of it. Everything else is hard to see with the fuse box in the way. how do you see if this "spring is off. Should i be able to move the release fork so far. It does not seem to be pushing on the pressure plate and i was extreamly care when installing the clutch kit, compared it to the one that came out. Could have screwed something up.

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

Did you prop up the pedal when you did the swap?

 

[Bruce M]

Yes I did, thanks for asking

 

[93rev2sev]

You absolutely sure the throwout bearing is in there...correctly? Did it have the little plastic clip on it's ear and through the TOB fork when it went in?

 

[AREA 91]

I am betting on the TOB Fork retaining bolt.

I also hope you used "green" Loctite on that new quill sleeve.

 

[Bruce M]

Sleeve, retaining clip all went in. Release bearing is in. However, after thinking about it I'm not absolutely, positively 100 % sure I put the fork bolt in, symptoms say that’s it, can’t be anything else. Feel foolish right now about having to say that given that I have been so dam careful throughout this whole process. To further raise my suspicions I did find a bolt among the junk on my bench that looks like it. The fact remains that the release arm swings back and forth and it does not have any pressure on it at all right now, that bearing can’t be touching the presser plate at all. Something either broke in spite of my being careful or the fork bolt is missing and the arm is swinging free. Will have tranny out by Sundays first light. Will report on what “bone-head” move I did to do this.

All was not a waste of time however, designed a nice way of pulling the tranny in and out smoothly without help and dropping the sub-frame smooth and easy by myself. Plus while I was under there without the sub-frame and tranny I replaced rusty brake lines, both LCAs, all tie rods, all bushing, under coated everything.

good money is on whoever said the fork bolt.


Thanks all

 

[Ishodu]

Good stuff, if that arm is moving back and forth easy you either you don't have the TOB in place anymore or the bolt is not in the shaft that holds the TOB fork on.

 

[Bruce M]

PROBLEM FOUND!!!!!

As sugested by several it was the fork bolt. It was in there but on first clutch depression the action of the new pressure plate sheared it off. I was shocked to see on examination that that folk bolt had rusted / rotted in the shaft section. When I removed the tranny got it up on the bench the head of the bolt was there, when i went to turn it it came broke and fell off. the fork would move without any pressure but the minute I held the TOB the shaft would spin in the shaft. now i need to come up with a way to get the end of the bolt out.

thanks