clutch, needs adjusting???

[2SLO4SHO]

i am going tomarrow at 10am to look at a 1990 sho
im told it needs a tob, tho due to sellers discription im thinking it's the clutch
but im wondering, what are the chances that the clutch just being way out of adjustment having the same symptoms as a bad clutch/tob?

i was reading up on adjusting the clutch and also about replacing the clutch
if there was a way i could drive the car for about a week or so (without damaging the car) i should be able to sell enough parts to just pay someone to do the clutch (that way it's done right because of my limited garage space and limited tools)

just as a quick recap, im told that the car is only able to be driven if the car is slip shifted because it appears that the clutch is not entirely dis engaging (or possibly not fully engaging i don't know im going by what im told)
but i was also told as soon as the car started to show said symptoms it was parked


clift notes: could it be the clutch is out of adjustment and no a bad clutch/tob if so how would it be best to check before buying the car
also if adjusting the clutch helps would it also be a good idea to try changing the tranny fluid before i tear it appart or have someone else tear it appart for a new clutch and tob?

 

[2SLO4SHO]

i know it's late but im going to see the car tomarrow morning so if i could get an answer soon it would be awsome

 

[rubydist]

Typically, if a cable actuated clutch is out of adjustment, it will want to slip or not engage fully, or disengage after just a little clutch travel. This happens if the clutch disk wears and the cable/linkage is not adjusted.

If the tob is bad, they are typically noisy or rattle (usually squeal, in my experience).

The SHO clutches are designed so the tob is engaged all the time. If the clutch gets loose, then the tob may not contact the release fingers enough to make the tob spin. When this happens, the release fingers often wear. Eventually, the fingers get thin enough that the tob pushes through the fingers or the fingers bend rather than disengaging the clutch.

So, if the clutch doesn't want to fully disengage, I'd guess that it could likely be that the clutch needs replaced. If it doesn't want to fully engage, then it possibly could be adjusted, or could need to be replaced.

No matter if it just needs a tob, since its such a pita to do it, you would want to replace the clutch, pp, tob, and face the flywheel, so I'd factor that cost/work into the price of the car.

 

[2SLO4SHO]

Typically, if a cable actuated clutch is out of adjustment, it will want to slip or not engage fully, or disengage after just a little clutch travel. This happens if the clutch disk wears and the cable/linkage is not adjusted.

If the tob is bad, they are typically noisy or rattle (usually squeal, in my experience).

The SHO clutches are designed so the tob is engaged all the time. If the clutch gets loose, then the tob may not contact the release fingers enough to make the tob spin. When this happens, the release fingers often wear. Eventually, the fingers get thin enough that the tob pushes through the fingers or the fingers bend rather than disengaging the clutch.

So, if the clutch doesn't want to fully disengage, I'd guess that it could likely be that the clutch needs replaced. If it doesn't want to fully engage, then it possibly could be adjusted, or could need to be replaced.

No matter if it just needs a tob, since its such a pita to do it, you would want to replace the clutch, pp, tob, and face the flywheel, so I'd factor that cost/work into the price of the car.

yeah i figured that it's just a pain in the ass to have to have to share the truck with my dad