Clutch Install

[G2MATT]

Anyone installed a clutch in these thangs? What is the best order of operations?

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

best advice...buy Josh's Clutch install video from www.SHONUTperformance.com The best how to vid out there. I never did a clutch before and did mine on jackstands in 1 about a day taking my time)

 

[sdpatt]

If you don't want to attempt the clutch service yourself, I highly recommend Tony Huerta (TexanTony) in Grand Prairie. He has replaced many SHO clutches (and transaxles) and runs a shop off of Great Southwest Parkway just a short distance southeast of Six Flags.

You can send him a PM either through the SHO Forum or the Fordbastards Forum.

 

[platoribs]

Scott, would you care to comment on the clutch R&R proceedure where one foregoes the dropping of the subframe? I assume one still has to disconect everything else including the rack etc... so maybe this proceedure doesn't save all that much work. Was just wondering what your opinion was.

 

[shoebilly]

Scott, would you care to comment on the clutch R&R proceedure where one foregoes the dropping of the subframe? I assume one still has to disconect everything else including the rack etc... so maybe this proceedure doesn't save all that much work. Was just wondering what your opinion was.

I'll tell ya this is a big job and don't let any-body tell you its easy. You need to hang the motor, Drop the subframe & then the trans. That inculdes seperating the suspension, swaylinks,CV's, jackshaft, steering rack, incuding other upper engine disassembly. You want to take extra care with the flywheel, PP,throwout or all this is in vain. This all needs to be right before you start putting it back together again. Its a big job and anyone who tells you it can be done quickly is out right lying to you. I suggest you take your time. Give yourself time for that. If you have the time to do it then it can be fun. The guy who says he can do it in 3 hours is doing it for a living and not nessesarily doing the job with details in mind. Don't let the rack scare you too much its 2- 21mm nuts and it hangs in its place.

 

[G2MATT]

I'll tell ya this is a big job and don't let any-body tell you its easy. You need to hang the motor, Drop the subframe & then the trans. That inculdes seperating the suspension, swaylinks,CV's, jackshaft, steering rack, incuding other upper engine disassembly. You want to take extra care with the flywheel, PP,throwout or all this is in vain. This all needs to be right before you start putting it back together again. Its a big job and anyone who tells you it can be done quickly is out right lying to you. I suggest you take your time. Give yourself time for that. If you have the time to do it then it can be fun. The guy who says he can do it in 3 hours is doing it for a living and not nessesarily doing the job with details in mind. Don't let the rack scare you too much its 2- 21mm nuts and it hangs in its place.

Thanks to everyone you guys rock

 

[Racer X]

Scott, would you care to comment on the clutch R&R proceedure where one foregoes the dropping of the subframe? I assume one still has to disconect everything else including the rack etc... so maybe this proceedure doesn't save all that much work. Was just wondering what your opinion was.

This alternative is done without completely dropping the subframe, and removing the transaxle from the drivers side wheel well. You'll need an assistant to remove and reinstall the transaxle. Trust me. Unless you're the Hulk or something, then nevermind.

Step 1.
Disconnect the reverse switch connector at the transmission, and also the clutch cable from the clutch fork (use a block under the clutch pedal to allow the clutch cable to be pulled off of the fork).

Step 2.
Remove the airbox and intake hose. Support the PS hoses and wiring harnesses that rest on top of the transaxle from the trottle body using a wire hanger (worked for me, rope works just as well), and remove the black bracket that's bolted to the tranny.

Step 3.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely at least 20 inches off the ground. Jack stands at the front chassis rails on either side of the exhaust valley. Rear wheels blocked; e-brake set.

Or use a lift. Either or.

Step 4.
Disconnect the catback (the exhaust system from the y-pipe back) from the Y-pipe.

Step 5.
Remove the steering rack nuts.

Step 6.
Loosen, but do not remove the F and R engine mount nuts.

Step 7.
Remove the left wheel, and turn it all the way to the left. Disconnect the tie rod, and sway bar link at the strut, and swing both out of the way.

Step 8
Remove the axle nut, and lower control arm to spindle lock bolt and nut. Separate the lower control arm and spindle, and remove the axle from the hub. Don't let the axle hang too far, or it will get disjointed.

Step 9.
Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle, and pry the axle from the transaxle.

Step 10.
If you're using a lift, place a screwjack under the oil pan. If you're working on the ground, place a suitable jack or a tranny jack under the oil pan with a block of wood between the jack and the pan. Apply pressure to support the engine and transmission.

Step 11.
Remove the cruise control servo and the PS cooler from the subframe.

Step 12.
Loosen the passenger side subframe bolts approx. 1/2" to 5/8", or remove and reinsert with a minimum of 5 - 7 complete turns in the nut.

Step 13.
Slightly raise the engine and transaxle, and remove the transmission mount bolts and nuts, and remove the transaxle mount.

Step 14.
Remove the subframe bolts on the driver's side. Now, when you do this, the subframe is going to come a few inches away from the body, and you may think the whole thing is gonna drop. It's not, so don't be alarmed like I was the first time and scream like a b***h. The jack is supporting the weight now, not the subframe.

Step 15.
Slowly, and oh man I do I mean slowly, lower the jack until you have about 18" clearance between the subframe and the chassis. Once you have enough clearance, have your assistant support the transaxle, remove that last bolt, give her a little wiggle, and remove the transaxle from the car.

Installation is the reverse of removal. The first time I did it, I had access to a lift and powertools, and completely finished in a bit more than 4 hours, but as always, YMMV. If anyone feels that they could add anything CONSTRUCTIVE to this, by all means, feel free to do so.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Its not an "easy" job, but if you do your homework and have all the parts in advance, it is not Impossible for the beginner. When I first read SDPATT's daily posts during his clutch job, I was beside myself with fear. I watched the video, took copious notes, studied them, bought all the parts in advance and started the job at about 5 pm friday night. By Saturday at 11:30 pm, the job was done. Most work done myself, with help from two Arizona bruisers to get the tranny back in. I did all the items from rear main seal, to remove and replace the tranny. Took several breaks and even some long meals. Busted by butt, but I enjoy this kinda thing.

 

[gsilva]

Does anyone know what that Black Bracket that's bolted to the trans is for and is it needed. Changing clutch.

 

[shoon]

Does anyone know what that Black Bracket that's bolted to the trans is for and is it needed. Changing clutch.

If your talking about that metal thing that is held in with a couple tiny sheet metal screws directly above the trans below the airbox/hose, I ended up removing it and tying my wire harness out of the way afterwards. I'm assuming its just there to support the wiring harness or act as a heat shield possibly. It's definitely not structural- too flimsy for that. It's been out for a year now and I've driven many thousands of KM with no ill effects so far.

 

[gsilva]

That sounds like the bracket that I'm talking about. I think I will leave it off also. I've left a lot of brackets off this thing already including those engine dampeners and just tied the wiring harness out of the way. In the future it will make working on the car a little easier.