Clutch Done!!!!....problems

[MOSHO92]

Well, with everyone's help (the forum, my buddies(for lifting stuff), and Joshua Texiera(video)) i finally got it done and put together.

Some notes and problems:

- The driver's side outer tie rod end just sat there and spun when i tried to get the nut back on. I cleaned the bolt and nut with a wire brush and i used antisieze but even with an impact gun i couldnt get the nut past the locking hole. There was no way to hold the bolt so i just replaced the damn thing for like 17 bucks. Now i need a new alignment....

- The Fidanza and ASB's are cool. I get a totally diferent feel with the ASB's, and the engine revs much easier and quicker now with the Fidanza.

- Problem 1: When turning the wheel i get an awfull vibration. The entire car vibrates violently and makes a terrible sound. This happens when i am stopped, moving slow, and moving fast. It has to be something with the PS system because the vibration continues as long as there is pressure on the pump. Like if i hold the wheel to the right (not actually rotating the steering wheel, just making the pump try and turn the tires) the vibration is strongest.

- Problem 2: My car is smoking like mad. Smells like grease or ATF that i spilled, or possibly PS fluid. I havnt checked yet because ive been working since 9 this morning and i just finished (its 11:30pm).

- Problem 3: (possible problem) My new clutch is almost twice as easy to push. Most likely my old TOB was just making it harder than normal.

- Problem 4: (possible problem) New clutch only engages during the last half of the clutch pedal travel. I tried doing the self adjust thing and it clicked a couple of times but didnt really fix anything. I will try a few more times every day but could this just be the way my clutch is?

------time for bed. Thanks again for all of everyone's help, i couldnt have done it without you. .

beer pizza will have to wait for tommorow. Im exhasted.

 

[MOSHO92]

**bump**

 

[masho95]

- The driver's side outer tie rod end just sat there and spun when i tried to get the nut back on. I cleaned the bolt and nut with a wire brush and i used antisieze but even with an impact gun i couldnt get the nut past the locking hole. There was no way to hold the bolt so i just replaced the damn thing for like 17 bucks. Now i need a new alignment....

Well when you replace the clutch and remove the subframe the car should go in for an alignment anyways.

- Problem 3: (possible problem) My new clutch is almost twice as easy to push. Most likely my old TOB was just making it harder than normal.

It SHOULD be easier to press the clutch pedal after a new clutch is installed. That is completely normal.

- Problem 4: (possible problem) New clutch only engages during the last half of the clutch pedal travel. I tried doing the self adjust thing and it clicked a couple of times but didnt really fix anything. I will try a few more times every day but could this just be the way my clutch is?

Keep trying to adjust the clutch pedal. Did it stop clicking after you keep trying to adjust the pedal? Check the clutch release arm for any play. And a overall congratulations on the clutch install!

 

[MOSHO92]

UPDATE:

- problem 2 has stopped, problem 1 is now my biggest concern, please help...

- I am also quite concerned about the holding pressure of my new clutch. I just doesnt feel as grabby as i wanted it....but i havnt tried it yet under WOT

<small>[ September 13, 2003, 11:16 PM: Message edited by: MOSHO92 ]</small>

 

[MOSHO92]

Ohhh, one more thing. The pressure plate bolts that Southbend sent me werent even long enough to stick out of the other side of the pressure plate, less engage into the flywheel. I had to reuse my old ones, they seemed ok though.

 

[SHO--ripper]

The burning is most likely power steering fluid. That is why it is vibrating so bad when you aren't moving(this happened to my 91). Check the resovior. Did you tighten the PP down to spec? If you did there shouldn't be any problems. What about resurfacing the flywheel?Make sure not to romp on your SHO until you break the clutch in(500) miles. Once again thanks for the help and hope everything goes well. thumb

 

[SHO_Driver]

Don't worry too much about that high release point. It will go down. I still needed about 1000 miles before my clutch stopped slipping, which would mostly occur at high rpm's.

 

[Leigh]

It is possible to alter the clutch engagement point during the pedal throw. It should grab halfway, that gives you maximum release throw when pedal down and ensures full clamping pressure at the other end.

If you want to adjust it, or suspect that your auto adjuster is not working properly, try this.

Hold the pedal up with a 7in piece of 2x4. This disengages the adjuster. Pull the cable out of the release lever at the tranny maybe 1/2 inch with your fingers. While holding it there, have someone else remove the 2x4.

At this point you should have 1/2 in of cable slop, but it enables you to test your automatic adjuster. If you try to drive it, the clutch should grab almost on the floor, and you may not be able to shift. Pull up on the pedal and you should hear several loud clicks. The clutch should now grab 1/2 way up. I had to do this, it was the only way to get my adjuster to work properly.

I still had a little slack in the cable, at the tranny boss, I could see it, and it took an inch or more of too-easy pedal movement to remove it.

So I raised the engagement point some more this way: Under the pedal you can see the blue-green adjuster wheel. There is a prong piece that sticks down the lowest that you can get your thumb on and push on. Push the pedal an inch, hold the prong with you thumb, and let the pedal go. You will hear the loud click if done properly as it adjusts.

Once or twice is all I would recommend. I tried 3-4 clicks beyond the auto setting and it raised the clutch engagaement nearly to the top of the pedal.

All you have to do to recenter things is pull up on the pedal with your toe.

Lee