clutch auto adjuster

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pete315

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the pedal in my SHO grabs right near the floor. I tried to adjust pedal like owners manual says, by pulling up on pedal and then push clutch down to hear the click. I never heard any clicks. I then went under dash and manually adjusted it. I pushed pedal slightly down, pushed up on blue gear on the part closest to the firewall, then pulled pedal up. I now heard it click. I had to make it click about 8 times but now it grabs about an inch or 2 off the floor. I can now shift it. I guess it was never fulling disengaging. however while the car is running with the clutch up, I hear it ticking, sounds like the TOB. I know it needed a clutch. I just bought from Midwest the stock clutch/PP/ ceramic TOB. got 160k on original clutch and I'm not complaining. but since I adjusted it manually, I can now drive it again until I install the new clutch. except for the TOB noise, clutch doesnt slip even though there's not much play left on top of pedal. I have 2 questions. #1- is there any way to adjust the play on top of pedal (I don't think there is) #2 do you think I should change the auto adjuster? looks like a pain to change. I can't see what goes wrong with it. Is there a problem adjusting the pedal manually? beside my back taking a beating getting under that dash, it was very easy to do manually.
 

gosho89

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Yes and your correct, you can get a new kit from ford for under $20 bucks. Its a lot of fun to do make sure to have a ford manuel. :p


pete315:
anyone ever change the auto adjuster. I heard the gears get stripped which causes the pedal not to adjust
 

autobahnsho

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Don't depend on your car as your primary means of transportation until the clutch is replaced. :mad:


If the clutch was not fully engaging every shift, it probably wore down MUCH faster than typical.

Get the video from shonutperformance.com and enjoy, the clutch replacement is the easy part! Getting all the other stuff out of the way (y-pipe, subframe, tranny,) isn't...
 

pete315

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it was exact opposite. the clutch always fully engaged. it would not completely disengage causing hard shifting. that why I think I have to change the auto adjuster. for anyone who has changed it, what goes wrong? I hear it click when I adjust it manually so I assume the gear is not stripped. I do have the shop manual on it. how long did it take you to change?
 

pete315

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it was exact opposite. the clutch always fully engaged. it would not completely disengage causing hard shifting. that why I think I have to change the auto adjuster. for anyone who has changed it, what goes wrong? I hear it click when I adjust it manually so I assume the gear is not stripped. I do have the shop manual on it. how long did it take you to change?
 

autobahnsho

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Sorry, I'm just thinking about it differently than you wrote.

When I say 'clutch engaging' I meant that it was dis-connecting the tranny from the motor. Backwards, I guess...

So if the clutch wasn't always disengaging, causing hard shifting, it still will have worn prematurely.
-------------------------------------
If your adjuster 'clicks' it's working. You can see if it's at the end of the adjust w/ a screwdriver (to remove the cover) and some very un-natural twisting to look up under the dash.

Mine was acting like yours when it went out (abruptly). I ordered the cable hoping it was just stretched, but the ThrowOut Bearing had worn out, so it wore on the pressure plate fingers. And somehow the disc lost a spring... eek!

Don't order a cable- if you take it out, measure the length, and ask here, I'm sure someone has access to a new one and can tell you what it should be.

Good luck!
 

pete315

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that's what I was thinking. If I hear it clicking, it must be working and the gear is not stripped. I can hear the TOB, especially when car running and with clutch pushed down. jsut waiting for clutch/PP to be delivered form Midwest. I'll let you know how I make out
 

pete315

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clutch done

well, I just got the SHO back from the tranny shop ( I had a chioce of doing the clutch myself or work an 8 hour shift on overtime cruising around in a new Crown Vic eating donuts - not much of a choice) it turned out mint. when they removed old orig clutch with 161k, the TOB was wiped, missing around half the bearings, chewed up the PP. clutch actually had a little meat left on it. I highly suggest the ceramic TOB. I put in the factory clutch kit with the ceramic TOB from Midwest. I also had fluid in box changed. guy installed a new rear main seal, mine was leaking. this car shift like brand new. clutch pedal smooth and easy to push. guy said my tranny fluid look pretty beat up. guy also had to change the auto adjuster. the gears on the pawl and the center teeth on the adjuster were worn down, that's why I could never get the clutch adjusted. now clutch grabs in middle instead of 1/2 inch off the floor like it used to do. :thumb:
 

masho95

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Sweet glad to hear that you got your clutch back in perfect order. Now don't forget to break it in.
 

masho95

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At least 500 good stop and go city miles. I wouldn't bother counting anything on the highway. :)
 

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