Check Enigine light

[CochranAway]

Hi guys,

I have a 94 Taurus SHO 3.0 Manual transmission. Lately my check engine light has been going on and off and i am pretty sure it is an O2 sensor. But when the CEL is off, my car cuts out upon speeding up or any kind of quick acceleration. When the CEL if on my cars runs normal. any help and expertise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Devin]

Hey, welcome to the forums. Pull the codes and then report back. There are some guys on this forum that know most codes backwards and forwards. You can get the codes with your own code reader or a paperclip. If you don't have access to either, just bring it to a local o'Reilly's or Autozone and have them pull the codes for you.

 

[CochranAway]

Didn't realize i was in performance. i will report back later. Just found an O reillys with obd1. autozone didnt have one

 

[Devin]

Hah, I didn't even notice where you posted it. I'm sure a mod will find it at some point and move it.

 

[rubydist]

btw, you do not need a code reader for obd1 cars - in fact some of the readers don't work well. just a paperclip and counting will get the job done, and you can save your $$ for some parts that you inevitably need...

 

[CochranAway]

I will have to look up how to do the paperclip method. but i was unable to find anyone around my area that had on obd1. autozone no, 1 oreillys didnt have one and the other had theirs stolen. i did talk to someone who told me they had vacuum leak problems but i cant seem to find one. he also told me it could possibly be the mass airflow sensor and he told me to unplug it while it was running and if it bogged and died that was normal and if it did nothing that was my problem. well like i said the car runs fine with the check engine light on. so i tried it yesterday with the check engine light on and it did nothing when i unplugged it. this morning my check engine light was off again and the car was running bad so i decided to unplug the sensor then and sure enough it died. so do you think this is my problem?

 

[Devin]

The paperclip method has been discussed ad nauseum on this board. A quick search will find it. Until you grab those codes, you will just be running in circles unplugging and replacing things.

 

[CochranAway]

got the codes

167
225

 

[rubydist]

the codes you posted are both only valid for codes resulting from the koer test, and are not valid for stored codes.

the codes will flash from lowest number to highest number, twice through the list first the current active codes, then a single flash separator, then twice through the stored codes.

please read them again and report what they are.

 

[CochranAway]

After those sets of codes there is no blinking

 

[CochranAway]

126 and 157 map and maf

 

[CochranAway]

126 126 126 157 126 157

 

[rubydist]

126 = CID circuit failure (cam sensor)
157 = MAFS circuit below minimum

the cam circuit failure can cause intermittent misfire, or even engine stall. it could be the sensor itself, or the wiring/connector. I would start by replacing the cam sensor.

the mafs circuit open will also result in an engine that runs poorly, but should not result in stalls. that could be the mafs, or could be wiring/connector. I would start by cleaning connectors on that circuit.

 

[CochranAway]

I cleaned the MAFS with no results. Check engine light is on constantly now. used to just be on in the mornings. now its on all the time but the car runs fine with it on.

so you would say go for the cam sensor?

 

[CochranAway]

i did replace TPS anyway, but 126 is cam sensor. everyone else on here says it is BARO or MAP sensor. Just curious