Cheapest $$ for 60k parts?

[SHOYAY]

Anyone have ideas for a place to buy all things needed for the 60k on my 3.2L? I can get napa parts for cost but some are still quite expensive like the crank sensor and water pump. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Racer X]

This all depends on your definition of expensive. If you're basing the cost of parts for a SHO against a Crown Vic or a F150 or something, then yes the parts cost substantially more. As a general rule, you should expect to pay a premium on parts for the SHO V6 over any other mass production engine.

The crank sensor is relatively expensive, as is the DIS module (if you can still find those new). The fuel pressure regulator is also north of a Benjamin.

Most of us buy our 60k parts from one of three places:

http://www.Rockauto.com
http://www.RCMAutomotive.com
http://www.SHOSource.com

I've personally had great experiences with all three vendors. If you're getting NAPA parts at cost, chances are that you're probably going to get better pricing than if you were to purchase everything at any of the aforementioned vendors.

 

[SHOtimer]

I will only buy Ford crank sensors (or any other SHO sensor for that matter) - as people have had issues with non-ford units. It a lot of work to replace, so I wouldn't put a cheap one in.

www.fastpartsnetwork.com

Doug

 

[gmail]

i agree and highly recommend motorcraft parts and more so the cam seals and main seal rear etc the seals motorcraft sells are high quality as well as coming pre-greased.

the cheapest 60k i did on my 92 was $1k that was without waterpump since mine was so good i put it off for another time.

now for me that included main bearings as well and rod bearings since i was freshing up a 3.2 with 80460 miles on it.

i guess i did more then most as well since i stripped it down to block, cleaned it even went as far as scrubbing pistons to look new..

you get what you pay for is the way i feel, you got cheap on a 60k expect to be sitting on the side of the road...
you do a lot of work and replace all the needed stuff you will have a car that will not leave you sitting.

 

[kevinspann]

60k is srs bizness.

 

[SHOYAY]

Was just lookin to replace crank sensor, timing belt, waterpump and crank seal. car runs good, has no leaks, just thought of preventive maintenance.

 

[Racer X]

You should also do the cam seals while you're in there. You'll be mad at yourself later if you skip them and they begin to leak.

gmail, $1000 on 60k parts is absurd. Total parts for a complete upper and front 60k shouldn't be more than $600.

****, even with you using as many Motorcraft parts as you can find, you still wouldn't approach $1000.

 

[gmail]

You should also do the cam seals while you're in there. You'll be mad at yourself later if you skip them and they begin to leak.

gmail, $1000 on 60k parts is absurd. Total parts for a complete upper and front 60k shouldn't be more than $600.

****, even with you using as many Motorcraft parts as you can find, you still wouldn't approach $1000.

head gaskets new bolts etc like i said i rebuilt the engine olny thing inside i didnt replace was pistons and rings

 

[91PDXmocha]

head gaskets new bolts etc like i said i rebuilt the engine olny thing inside i didnt replace was pistons and rings

That is not a 60k . That is a engine rebuild , and was certianly not needed at 80k unless the motor was beat to crap since day 1.

I can do a 60k anywhere from 250-500 depending on how many parts are "premium" brand .

 

[itwonder]

Was just lookin to replace crank sensor, timing belt, waterpump and crank seal. car runs good, has no leaks, just thought of preventive maintenance.

If that is the case, I say don't take it all apart, keep driving it. The 60k interval is super conservative, and my opinion is 100k is a more suitable interval. Check a few things at 50-60K. 1) Remove the upper timing cover and give the timing belt a good visual inspection; they will run 100K miles easy. 2) Same visual inspection of serpentine belts 3) Cut a small hole in the fender liner opposite the crank bolt. Go in through there with a long extension and check that the crank bolt is torqued at least as tight as specification. 4) Put in a fresh set of plugs. 5) Check the plugs wires. If there is no oil in the plug wells, you are good to go. If there is oil in the plug wells, do a top 60K and adjust the valves.

 

[luigisho]

Agree with above.

 

[SHOYAY]

Thanks for the help and opinions guys. im pulling it into the shop this weekend and Im going to check it over.