Changing rear Camshaft

[bad_4dr_sho]

I'm getting ready to change the rear camshaft out (the one behind the cam position sensor) on my 95 ATX, it keeps destroying the cam seal. I've replaced the seal 5 times using different brands, and the last seal failed the worst with oil pouring out. Each seal only lasts a couple of days. I'm working on getting the cam now, and besides the seal what else do I need. I keep reading about the shims, which I guess I need to measure the gap with the new cam and swap out? The motor was resealed recently (last 3k miles) so I believe I can reuse the intake gaskets and the rubber valvecover gaskets.

 

[St Louis SHO]

You know you can buy a redi-sleeve for it right?

 

[bad_4dr_sho]

No I didn't, where can I buy it?

 

[St Louis SHO]

Rockauto or Autozone IIRC.

 

[bad_4dr_sho]

Wow never saw that, you rock st Louis SHO. That should work behind the cam position sensor right?

 

[rubydist]

also, in my experience a cam seal installer (Ford tool) is required to get that seal installed so that it is not ruined in the installation process. if you don't have that, spend the money to rent or borrow a tool from one of us.

 

[itwonder]

Haave you inspected the cam for burrs and scratches using a strong magnifying glass to see if there is any reasonable explanation for the seal problems? Are you using a thin layer of RTV around the perimeter of the seal when you install it? Try using a single layer of electrical tape around the end of the cam so the seal doesn't get cut slipping over that edge -- stretch the tape so it is thin. Make sure the seal does not go cockeyed as it goes on. Use Ford seals.

 

[bad_4dr_sho]

I followed the instructions on pheinoxsho, 3 times I used felpro, ford and timiken seals each time. I did use RTV but I didnt use electrical tape, or the seal installer from ford.

 

[itwonder]

I followed the instructions on pheinoxsho, 3 times I used felpro, ford and timiken seals each time. I did use RTV but I didnt use electrical tape, or the seal installer from ford.

I never have been able to install one sucessfully the shophoenix way. I use a PVC coupling that matches the face of the seal, and I gently tap it into place. There is not enough room to tap with a regular hammer, so I use a heavy flat bar of steel from an old trailer hitch.

Also, is it possible the cap is leaking? The cavity where the seal goes is two pieces that come together with RTV sealing the two halves. You do have to remove the valve cover to get to it.