Changing Battery Cables

[itln.stln]

I have corroded cables on my 94 ATX and I want to change them. I took a look at them today and saw that it's not the simplest thing to do. I already got a positive cable and a negative splice kit from Autozone. My question is, How do I change the corroded cables? Do I need to remove the whole wiring harness?

Thanks for all your help,
Enos

 

[St Louis SHO]

When you buy the cables (from ford) they come as a complete harness with your ground and positives in it. You'll have to do some searching to find the cables as they are obsolete from ford.

James

 

[itln.stln]

In that case is there anyway to clean up the cables?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Take a peice of string and measure the length of the cables, go to Auto Zone and get the right length Cables. Very easy to do, just a few bolts and you will have new wires.

 

[Devin]

If you have length you can cut off the ends and put new clamps on. I've done it on both my 87 GL and a 94 Topaz. Typically the wire is okay but the ends are crummy. Just get a good set of clamps.

 

[Ishodu]

I have posted the length of the battery cables before. A search should find it as I can't remember it anymore either.

 

[95azSHO]

I've done this to my 95 get the longest length 61"-65"? this gives you nice room for slack and placement. Cable ties are a must. For mine because of very big hands I had to remove the oil filter. I wear a size 15 ring. Also for ease unbolt the oil/ tranny cooler. The hardest bolt for me was the one that connects the negative cable to the engine. Never just replace the clamps this is inviting more trouble at a latter date.

 

[MD Ever]

I just did this on my 95 ATX. Got new cables at Autozone. I got a 48" positive wire and a 56" negative wire. They were about $5 each and the whole job took about 2 hours to do (mostly because I was real **** about it). Real easy job.

 

[SHOtimer]

Replacing the whole unit with the Ford piece makes it real easy. I bought the cable assembly a few years ago while it was still available from Ford. Pulled the old one out and put the new one in and all was happy. I'm sure you can replace it with bulk cable, but i'm not sure how you'd wire in the alternator wire.

Doug

 

[Devin]

Never just replace the clamps this is inviting more trouble at a latter date.

How so?

 

[itln.stln]

so what do I do with the cables in the harness? Do I just need to cut open the loom and remove them?

 

[Shoaz]

so what do I do with the cables in the harness? Do I just need to cut open the loom and remove them?

Yes, that's just a protective loom. It's probably already split down its full length, so once you unwrap the tape on it it's very easy to remove the loom and separate the battery cables.

 

[shoteen95]

Yea, for me the hardest part was just removing the old cables and tearing out that nasty factory loom.

Mine were most definately shot. the terminals were so badly corroded that they broke apart into peices in my hands.

 

[Devin]

Ugh, I hate those weenie little connectors. Give me a big lunky brass one any day.

 

[baySHO_510]

Go to a stereo shop and have them soldier or crimp some terminals onto 4 or 2 guage wire. That might work.

 

[Off Road SHO]

I have crimp on eyelets for up to 00 wire size, and the crimpers, and the good hot-melt adhesive heat shrink, in case you need help fixing it. Just buy some good #2 or bigger cable, some good clamps and bring it on out.

Tom

 

[Eric VerValin]

Hey I have a question. I really should know this, but I'm going to ask anyway. Why is automotive cable, automotive cable? I notice a lot more smaller strands than in wire of comparable size, in say commercial applications. Bigger wire is always better, in my opinion, and I was going to run something crazy, being I'm about to build another Wal-Mart here shortly. I was thinking about running 350 MCM, or maybe just some 1-0. Would I have a problem with that, being the wire is bigger, but I don't have 2 million strands. I'd have to get my ugly's book out to tell ya how many. But my theoritecial mind tells me to remember what I know about wire.

Electrical current runs alone the outside of the wire, not down the center. So having smaller strands would increase the surface area of the copper, and therefore allow the larger current to pass with less resistance.

But being smaller, I would think it would heat faster. Is it simply to hold the larger 'instant load', from starting, and not necessarly to hold it for a long peroid of time? Maybe this is why cables corrode inside? They really arent big enough, and are the 'cheapest route' dealers decide on... cost/people *******. ??

 

[93rev2sev]

Hey I have a question. I really should know this, but I'm going to ask anyway. Why is automotive cable, automotive cable? I notice a lot more smaller strands than in wire of comparable size, in say commercial applications. Bigger wire is always better, in my opinion, and I was going to run something crazy, being I'm about to build another Wal-Mart here shortly. I was thinking about running 350 MCM, or maybe just some 1-0. Would I have a problem with that, being the wire is bigger, but I don't have 2 million strands. I'd have to get my ugly's book out to tell ya how many. But my theoritecial mind tells me to remember what I know about wire.

Electrical current runs alone the outside of the wire, not down the center. So having smaller strands would increase the surface area of the copper, and therefore allow the larger current to pass with less resistance.

But being smaller, I would think it would heat faster. Is it simply to hold the larger 'instant load', from starting, and not necessarly to hold it for a long peroid of time? Maybe this is why cables corrode inside? They really arent big enough, and are the 'cheapest route' dealers decide on... cost/people biotchin. ??

Vibration

 

[Eric VerValin]

How so? If the ends are ''crimped'', meaning its a bonded connection, it shouldn't be an issue I would think. ?

 

[Shoaz]

Hey I have a question. I really should know this, but I'm going to ask anyway. Why is automotive cable, automotive cable?

I suspect not only vibration specs for the connectors but also the environmental specs on the insulating jacket. It has to hold up to high (and low) temps, plus a harsh chemical environment.

Electrical current runs alone the outside of the wire, not down the center. So having smaller strands would increase the surface area of the copper, and therefore allow the larger current to pass with less resistance.

Current runs on the conductor perimeter for AC, it'll go anywhere for DC, and stranding complicates it even for AC.