The clutch hub is a tight fit but not a "press" fit. It gets stuck on the splines due to corrosion. If you do not have access to a clutch hub removal tool, (it is a special "puller") you can use wood "shims" to wedge in between the two clutch surfaces and effectively pry them apart.
If you are replacing the entire clutch, including the coil, clutch pulley, and clutch hub (face), you can use screwdrivers to pry the hub away from the pulley. Make sure of the conditions you have to meet to get credit for the "core". If you mess up the hub you may not get credit for your old clutch. I would use the shims if I could not get a "puller".
Do not lose the washers inside the old hub. Keep them in case you need an extra washer to adjust the new clutch gap. Note the way the snap rings go when you put the new clutch pulley and the coil on the compressor. The snap rings are beveled on one side. The beveled side should face YOU, or "UP" to put it another way. Removal and replacement of the snap rings will require snap ring pliers.
Note the little *** on the compressor that serves to line up the coil when it is mounted on the compressor. The coil has a corresponding hole.
Just for grins and giggles apply battery voltage to the old coil to see if it becomes a powerful electromagnet. It should if it is working. If not, it needs to be replaced. Check the new coil before you install it.
Hope this helps, rangerj (PS one of these days I'll get a digital camera)
