Cause of stalling continues

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shelby987

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I need some advice, I am still experiencing the stalling problem with my 94 MTX, SHO. I was unable to clean the IAB (or IAC as some will call it) because I didn't have the tools handy to get at the lower bolt, but plan on giving it another shot shortly. My new problem is, the car used to just stall at a light, well yesterday it was driven 70 miles on about 1/4 tank of gas with sitting in traffic for about the last half hour of the trip (it was 76 yesterday). While sitting in traffic the car started to stall, figuring it was the usual stall, i tried to gas it back up to operating RPM's....nothing, it idled down to what looked like 200rpm, and would not come back.....a couple of attempts to restart the car did not work. After sitting for a little while, i managed to get it to start and pulled off to the side of the road before it once again died. After sitting for half an hour, i managed to get it to the highway and it drove home fine....i have heard that the Fuel pump will cause this (if its getting bad, and on its way out) so i wanted to know what the pressure tester is that i need to get to measure this when it happens next, and where this valve is? (the car has 68k miles on it as it sits right now, is this still a possibility?)

Also, planning on replacing the fuel filter at the same time, can anyone tell me where under the car this is located, and is there anything special I need to know when replacing this?

No, i have not had the chance to check the codes, I live in an apartment complex, and they are none too happy when people decide to pop the hood on the cars in their driveway.....but will soon, will a bad fuel pump show up on the codes?

Thanks
-Lee
 

Redline

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Well, I'm not really sure, but how new is yoru CID? Mine went bad and was causing my car to randomly stall. I would wait five or ten minutes, and then it would run fine. At any rate, you should have some codes if this is the problem.

The fuel filter is located on the passenger side, just ahead of the rear tire. Pretty easy to change, just make sure you have something to catch the extra gas in.
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

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The fuel shrader valve is on the top of the motor. Look at the snakes and see the fuel rail that runs from left to right...there is a little black cap you can take off. Looks just like a tire valve. I had the same problem you did with the same symptoms. Your pump sounds like its bad. Codes wont always show it being bad.

A fuel pressure tester is like 40-50 bucks. I used my 3.00 tire pressure gauge (the lollypop looking one). It worked fine. In some cases it may not. Dont expect the gauge to last with gas in it as the gauge seals go bad, but for 3.00, who cares?

When the problem occurs again, pull over. pop the hood and put the gauge on the valve. Have a passenger turn the key on but keep the engine off. You should get a fuel reading of about 30 psi. If your pump is junk, you will get barley 10. If the car starts, you should have 40 psi at WOT. I had 5 psi with the key one and 10 when it started and choked.

You see what is happening is the pump is weak...gets hot from driving, goes bad for a bit...you wait as you are on the side of the road....it cools, and you drive home.
 

shelby987

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what does a fuel pump cost, and how much time am I looking at to pull and replace it? The car is relatively rust free, but I have found its that ONE rusty bolt that stops the whole job.
Thanks
-Lee
 

shelby987

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Pleased to say that the codes came back clean, and after a 5 min. fuel filter swap the car seems to have no more signs of stallling (been driving it for about a week now without hesitation, stalling, or irratic idle). You gotta love when it actually turns out to be the simple solution (because how often does something actually make your life easier).
Thanks
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

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shelby987 said:
Pleased to say that the codes came back clean, and after a 5 min. fuel filter swap the car seems to have no more signs of stallling (been driving it for about a week now without hesitation, stalling, or irratic idle). You gotta love when it actually turns out to be the simple solution (because how often does something actually make your life easier).
Thanks


Couple of things to watch for: the pump was stressed and is failing a bit at a time....I had a bad fuel pump for a year before I knew what the deal was. When your pump gets hot due to overwork, climate, etc, the problems may continue. Be wary of the situation. Keep the pressure tester handy. To answer your question about how much...a new pump will cost you 85 bucks and has everything you need to do the job. Job is not really hard, just tough to drop the tank. Many make the fuel access door by cutting a piece out of the floor of the car, but even I find that a tad intimidating due to the presence of the fuel lines.
 

Ace

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Shelby this sounds like the exact problem i am having with my car.I have a 93 MTX with 121k on it.The motor was swapped out 2k miles ago but this problem was evident with the old engine.I get random stalling at stop lights and sometimes at WOT there is just no power especially upon startup...but yet at idle there is no skip and revs fine.I did pull codes and got a 551 (IAC) and a 542 (fuel pump circuit)i replaced the IAC and it helped a little bit but the problem is still there.I also have new plugs,wires fuel filter and today i even changed out the oxygen sensors...What made me think it may be fuel related was about two weeks ago i was sitting in a freinds drive way with the car running.All of a sudden the car sputtered then had no power and dropped to like 300rpm then all of a sudden died.Car cranked but wouldnt start..but after a minute or two it started back up but then died again at the end of the street...this time it started on the second try and hasn't done it since....has anyone else had similar problem or has anyone had them and been able to solve it...im sorry i know i should have started another thread but while doing a search i found this one...any help would be appriciated
 

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