I had to change my water pump that was leaking and my crankshaft sensor. Took out the battery, belts, upper timing belt cover, etc. That was easy. My problem is I can't take off the lower timing belt cover and the crank pulley. I took all of the bolts off of the lower timing cover and it seems the cover is made in 2 pieces with a rubber seal in between both. Now in order to change the cps I need to take off that crank pulley that is almost impossible. I weigh 245 lbs, 6'2 and could bench press 350lbs but I can't take off that damm pulley. I put my ratchet to try to take off the bolt that holds it. When I turn it the timing belt turns. When I am facing the engine in front of the car do I pull toward me or push toward the back of the car. Also how does that damm lower timing belt cover come off!! The upper cover is easy. The lower, almost impossible. There seems like the lower cover is 2 pieces attached and a rubber seal between both of them. I cracked the cover where it covers the timing belt(could be fixed with some glue). At this point I feel like ripping the whole cover off to get to the cps. Is that a good idea, it's just a piece of plastic with 0-10 numbers on it and will save me a lot of time. Why the **** did ford place the cps there in the first place, kind hard to get to. At this point I feel like taking my 32 ounce louisville bat to the car. I think my neighbors would get scared if they saw that. When Ford told me they can do the job in 7 hours(500$) plus the water pump and cps I told them the can kiss my a**. Need help fast, thanks
Can't take off lower timing belt cover. Help
- Thread starter carlsho
- Start date
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Andrew Tilson
Member
straight off shotimes 
18) Now for the exciting part, removing the flywheel bolt. Make sure DIS is disconnected step (12). Put 19mm impact socket on "Craftsman Lifetime Warranty" wrench and place on crank bolt (shown). Place it so the wrench rests on subframe. Attach battery to car with good jumper cables or just place battery in the battery area and reconnect battery cables. Make sure car is in NEUTRAL. Crank starter for less then 1/2 a second. You will hear a clunk and the bolt is loose.
worked for me
<small>[ August 12, 2002, 01:53 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>
18) Now for the exciting part, removing the flywheel bolt. Make sure DIS is disconnected step (12). Put 19mm impact socket on "Craftsman Lifetime Warranty" wrench and place on crank bolt (shown). Place it so the wrench rests on subframe. Attach battery to car with good jumper cables or just place battery in the battery area and reconnect battery cables. Make sure car is in NEUTRAL. Crank starter for less then 1/2 a second. You will hear a clunk and the bolt is loose.
worked for me
<small>[ August 12, 2002, 01:53 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>
luigisho
SHO Member
Just did the t-belt. Ditto to whatr Andrew said. Get a 19mm impact socket and a wrench or I used a 15" breaker bar. Put the wrench against the subframe and bump the starter. Make sure the DIS is unplugged. Should pop off.
To reinstall the bolt: I did what Scott suggested and put the donut spare on, put the tranny (mtx) in 4th gear, and lowered the car to tighten. The pulley will spin freely otherwise.
To reinstall the bolt: I did what Scott suggested and put the donut spare on, put the tranny (mtx) in 4th gear, and lowered the car to tighten. The pulley will spin freely otherwise.
pete c
New Member
350? My gramma can push 350, and she's been dead ten years.
You got two option, hit the weights a litte more ya pencil neck, or do what those guys^^^^ said. That starter motor ain't real big, but it can kick yer ass any day. Just watch what short work it makes of that bolt.
BTW, it's the middle cover that's supposed to be the PIA. I busted it into 3 pieces getting it off, and I can't bench much more than 200 .
<small>[ August 12, 2002, 09:17 AM: Message edited by: pete c ]</small>
You got two option, hit the weights a litte more ya pencil neck, or do what those guys^^^^ said. That starter motor ain't real big, but it can kick yer ass any day. Just watch what short work it makes of that bolt.
BTW, it's the middle cover that's supposed to be the PIA. I busted it into 3 pieces getting it off, and I can't bench much more than 200
.<small>[ August 12, 2002, 09:17 AM: Message edited by: pete c ]</small>
srfdude
SHO Member
LOL. That's how I did mine, but when we did NavalAvi8ors 60K, the battery wouldn't budge that damn bolt. We had to leave about an inch of play from the end of the breaker bar to the frame, so it could build up a little speed before it hit. Then it finally came loose. A real PITA!Andrew Tilson:
straight off shotimes
18) Now for the exciting part, removing the flywheel bolt. Make sure DIS is disconnected step (12). Put 19mm impact socket on "Craftsman Lifetime Warranty" wrench and place on crank bolt (shown). Place it so the wrench rests on subframe. Attach battery to car with good jumper cables or just place battery in the battery area and reconnect battery cables. Make sure car is in NEUTRAL. Crank starter for less then 1/2 a second. You will hear a clunk and the bolt is loose.
worked for me
Mike
pete c
New Member
sounds like carl b tightened it the last time.
93SHO_2
New Member
Glad to see Pete C flames everyone, I was getting a complex.
Mine has 216K an I've done the 100k t-belt process twice. Once I used the starter bump method the next time I used the impact wrench method.. You can pick up an electric 110 v impact for less than $100 if you don't won't to spend all your savings on an air compressor.
Put anti-sieze on the bolts when you put the timning cover back on.
Mine has 216K an I've done the 100k t-belt process twice. Once I used the starter bump method the next time I used the impact wrench method.. You can pick up an electric 110 v impact for less than $100 if you don't won't to spend all your savings on an air compressor.
Put anti-sieze on the bolts when you put the timning cover back on.
rangerj
Active Member
Carl,
The middle timing belt cover, and the bottom cover, are held together with one bolt. The "common" bolt is on the left side where the two pieces come together.
The lower cover has a metal "dowell" on each side about an inch and a half down from the top of it. The dowells fit in holes in the front of the block, and act as guides so that the cover and its timing marks are in the right position. Locate the dowells and GENTLY pry them out of their holes. They get stuck due to corrosion. Spraying some penetrating oil on them may help.
There is a total of 9 bolts holding the top cover on (there is one under the pasanger side part of the intake plenum in the middle), and 8 holding the bottom two parts of the cover (one is common to both parts).
When you put it back together use some anti sieze compound on the dowels, and all of the cover fasteners. I suggest that you use a torque wrench where a torque specification is given, including the cover fasteners.
Lastly, the damper pulley can be removed, once the bolt is removed, with a damper puller. There are two threaded holes in the pulley that are there for the attachment of the puller. Depending on the type of puller you use, be careful not to damage the threads in the crankshaft. On a personal note, learn to be patient. You will live longer, and it will cost a lot less in replacement parts. rangerj
The middle timing belt cover, and the bottom cover, are held together with one bolt. The "common" bolt is on the left side where the two pieces come together.
The lower cover has a metal "dowell" on each side about an inch and a half down from the top of it. The dowells fit in holes in the front of the block, and act as guides so that the cover and its timing marks are in the right position. Locate the dowells and GENTLY pry them out of their holes. They get stuck due to corrosion. Spraying some penetrating oil on them may help.
There is a total of 9 bolts holding the top cover on (there is one under the pasanger side part of the intake plenum in the middle), and 8 holding the bottom two parts of the cover (one is common to both parts).
When you put it back together use some anti sieze compound on the dowels, and all of the cover fasteners. I suggest that you use a torque wrench where a torque specification is given, including the cover fasteners.
Lastly, the damper pulley can be removed, once the bolt is removed, with a damper puller. There are two threaded holes in the pulley that are there for the attachment of the puller. Depending on the type of puller you use, be careful not to damage the threads in the crankshaft. On a personal note, learn to be patient. You will live longer, and it will cost a lot less in replacement parts. rangerj
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