Camber Kits

[MeShoHorny]

Went for an alignment today and found that my camber is way off. Here are the specs:

RF= -2.5
LF= -3.0
RR= -3.0
LR= -2.0

Question- Does anyone make a camber kit that will allow for +2.0? The only kits I have seen allow for a max of +1.25.

Also, where can I score the Moog lower greasable control arms (ball joints are on there way out)
TIA,

 

[RI-SHO]

How the **** did that happen? My SHO with 18's is within stock limits in the rear with no kit etc? Does it just vary from SHO to SHO or what??

 

[Dave Kegel]

New LCAs should help your camber problem in front. If they're worn out, it will screw up your camber. In the rear, my guess is the rear springs are shot. They sag over time, which also screws up the camber. Sounds like it's time to refurbish your suspension.

Dave Kegel

 

[MeShoHorny]

Dave Kegel:
New LCAs should help your camber problem in front. If they're worn out, it will screw up your camber. In the rear, my guess is the rear springs are shot. They sag over time, which also screws up the camber. Sounds like it's time to refurbish your suspension.

Dave Kegel

Funny that your bring that up. I just replaced the Shocks, spings, poly bushings everywhere, strut mounts (4), strut bearings (2), and 1 wheel bearing and outter tie rods. The only thing I did not replace are the balljoints. I would love a set of the Moog greasables but am having a hard time finding them.

As far as the camber goes in the back I plan on installing the GP tubular arms with shonut sleaves. This should take care of the rear.

I found a place that makes camber kits for the SHO and are adjustable up to +1.25. Maybe the combo of new balljoints and the camber kit will get me in spec in the front. The rear I am sure I will get to spec with the GP arms.

Website for the camber kit is HERE

 

[Dave Kegel]

Did they break the spot welds and move the camber plates in the front? That should be all the adjustment you need. Worst case, you might have to elongate the bolt hole slots a little, but I've never heard of anyone having to use a camber kit in the front. I think some of those kits fit between the strut tower and the strut mount, which raises the front of the car some, so I'd be leery of those.

Good luck, I thnk new LCAs will help a lot.

Dave

 

[Hubes]

i got new cmaber plates also. they are waiitng an install. i got them from carparts.com. they were MOOG an a good price, shipping took longer than i expected though

 

[AutoXSHO]

-2.0 up front, eh? Man, sure wish I could get that much negative camber for autocross events. I'm at about -1.5 up front. Then again, I have new front ball joints. Moog greasables. Got them at the local Napa. They weren't cheap though - about $75 apiece. Oh, they're real fun to install, too.

I'm assuming you want to zero out the front camber. You don't want positive front camber, correct? Even a degree of positive camber up front will have your car looking like a Tempo.

I'm getting set to install my GTP arms, too. The credit card is smoking with the cost of the sleeve kits, plus new nuts, bolts and washers (or as DeaconBlue would say, "wooshers" ) back there.

John V

 

[MeShoHorny]

Since this is my daily driver I want to be as close to zero as possible. I thought I had seen the Moogs for 60 bucks a while back but can't recall where. Yeah, I removed the control arms once before and it is kinda a PITA but well worth it in the end IMO.

I found some GP arms for 20 each at Eastcoast junkyard. I will be ordering them tomorrow. However, I don't think these will be going on for a bit.

Last night I drilled the spot welds out and with the new balljoints and a tire rotation I hope to be close to zero.

J- when you do your rear CA's pictures would be great if possible.
thanks guys,

 

[Dave Kegel]

You mean your alignment shop told you you have -2 degrees of camber in the front and that's the best they could do, and they never drilled out the spot welds? Did they charge you for this?

Even the 18 year old grease monkeys at Sears know that to adjust the camber they have to break the spot welds.

You should A) Ask for your money back and B) Find another shop for the next alignment.

Dave Kegel

 

[DeaconBlue]

Hey John V. any more comments like that and I just not be able to stop by this evening.

Just kiding wink

 

[MeShoHorny]

Dave- No they didn't charge me. I asked them to break the welds and they said I would get very limited camber adjustment...and said it was not worth it, so I did it myself.

How much camber can be gained my drilling out the spot welds? Does anyone really know?

 

[Hubes]

i got a print out of caster/camber when i went to get an aligment they were so out of whack. the guy there recommended i get the following and i got them from jc whitney carparts.com.

i got moog caster/camber plate kit #k8822 for 48.65 (each, u need 2) and cam bolt kit k8460 31.93 for the pair(only need one sicne they come as a pair). i believe the cam bolt kit is for the rear. if i knew how to read my NTB toe/camber thing i would give my numbers because mine were way off. i just need to have my stuff installed now.

 

[MeShoHorny]

Hubes: does that moog caster/camber plate kit #k8822 install between the the strut mount and lower strut tower or do you install it on the top of the strut tower?

 

[Hubes]

hmmm i am not really sure. is there a way i can tell? i haven't had them installed yet so am not really sure. my firend might know and if i talk to him tonight i will ask him, if i don't talk to him i will tell you as soon as i tlak to hik which should be within a few days.

<small>[ May 15, 2002, 10:46 PM: Message edited by: Hubes ]</small>

 

[Hubes]

i guess better late than never...........here is your answer (they were installed yesterday) they install on the upper strut mount accoridng to my mechanic. sorry for the delay.