cam seal installation

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HerbieTheMisfit

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I'm in the middle of my front 60k and have a question regarding the cam seal installation. I was able to remove the old one with little difficulty but I'm having problems putting the new one in.

I'm using a chunk of 1-1/2" PVC pipe and rubber mallet to drive in the new seal. I'm lubricating the shaft, and both the inside and the outside of the new seal. The problem is that when I put the new one in using this method, the outside of the seal is not seating correctly all the way around and getting damaged in the process. Am I doing something wrong? I assume if I were to leave it like that it would leak. I've gone thru 3 seals now (I just ordered 6 more)...

TIA,
Jim
 

jelloslug

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The correct tool set has 2 pieces: one is a very thin wall plastic tube about 1.25" long that is tapered on one end. The tool slips over camshaft and and is a guide for the seal. The other is a metal "inserter" tool very much like your PVC pipe except that it has a large surface to press on and it picks up on the inner tool to make it go in straight. It sound to me like your seals are not going in straight and are getting bent in the process. You may be able to find someone near you that has the correct tool that could help if need be.
 

Rockledge

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I had similar trouble installing the crank seal on my SHO. Someone suggested that I heat up the metal area around where the seal goes for the purpose of expanding the metal a little bit. After doing that, the seal popped right in, nice and straight. Might be worth a try.
 

Yamaha V6

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Are you using aftermarket seals or Ford? I use the PVC with the Ford seals & have yet to have any issues with crank or cam seals using the oem, but have had issues with Fel-Pro sets, etc.
 

HerbieTheMisfit

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I am using the FelPro seals. That's the first I've heard of troubles with them. Where do you source your OEM ones from?

I'll try heating up the housing on my next attempt.

Thanks all!
 

kmetros

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Another option, if you don't have the valve covers back on, is to remove the 'cap' above the seal. If you do that, the seal will easily sit in place - replace the cap and torque it to spec. You need to use RTV on the cap to keep it from leaking, but I can't remember where. I think you can tell where it was at when you remove the cap.
 

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