C.I.D. Sensor and Seal Replacement Tips

[GhostRider33763]

Well it looks like it's time for me to change the C.I.D. Sensor and seal behind it due to an annoying oil leak. Boy it sure seems to be in a tight spot. Any ideas or testimonials you guys can give me on what angle to remove the sensor(from up top or remove splash shield from wheel well). It sure doesn't look like you can get a socket on that bugger from up top. It looks straight forward: remove sensor, remove gasket, apply new gasket, replace with new sensor. Does RTV need to be used on the gasket sealing surface? Is there's anything else that I need to watch out for?

Thanks In Advance
90 MTX

 

[Yamaha V6]

Ok, I'm confused. Since the terms are interchangeable by most of the masses here, let's clarify:

Crank Sensor or Cam Sensor?

In both cases, I do it from the top. Crank sensor, I've removed the fender skirt before hand to get the dampener off. Crank sensor: it's INVOLVED. Remove the intake crossover tube, battery, batt tray, belt(s), covers, pulleys / tensioners, etc. to make room to work. Dampener comes off before lower cover, then timing gear, then you can get to the front main seal.

Cam sensor: very easy to get to, but the seal can be a bit tricky, as there's not a lot of room. Much faster job than crank sensor.

No RTV on either one. You should probably get a shop manual if you're going to do this kind of work yourself often - it'll pay for itself quickly. Good luck!

 

[projectSHO89]

CID sensor is the cam sensor. Haven't noticed anyone interchanging that term with the CPS lately.

When I did my cam seals, it was at the same time as the rest of my front end service, and axle service, and a rack replacement. I was able to raise the front of the engine up a long ways and get easy acess to that rear cam seal by removing the nuts from the motor mounts. I also had the Y-pip removed which also helped alot. FWIW, if you're going to do the two inner cam seals, you will need to remove the timing belt, the cam sprockets, and the inner timing cover. Watch out for the small pins when you remove the sprockets. They're easy to loose and hard to find.

No sealant is needed on the seals, just **** them with some engine oil to aid in assembly. Also, when doing the rear cam seal, make sure you reinstall the vane in the same position as you removed it. You don't want it 180 out.

Steve

 

[GhostRider33763]

Thanks Yamaha V6. It's the cam sensor that I'm changing. I'm with you on the confusion of terminolgy used for both sensors(Many different ones are used here on the board). Were you able to reach the sensor with the harmonic balancer still on the car? I can barely get my hand down there with room to work comfortably. The Ford shop manual is a wonderful thing. I just picked one up last week. However it didn't mention anything about the Vane or seal in there(Of course I may have overlooked). I'll double check the Cam section instead of the sensor section again. I've had my nose in that book every second that I can since it arrived at the house.

Thanks

 

[GhostRider33763]

Steve,

Is there a Vane on the seal behind the C.I.D. Sensor or is it only behind the #1 Crank Pulley? Just double checking.

 

[sdpatt]

You can replace the CID sensor without major disassembly, but you will need to remove the aluminum ring behind the CID sensor that is attached with two 10mm bolts. The oil seal is still inset 1/4" from the outer edge of the housing after removing the ring. Even with the timing covers, timing belt, timing belt pullies, rear timing belt cover removed, it was still a bit challenging to access with a Dremel tool to drill a hole through the metal portion of the seal. Here are a couple of photos from the timing belt service on my car where I also repalced the cam seals and CID sensor.

 

[DavidT]

If the other 2 cam seals are leaking, will there be oil all over the timing belt?

 

[GhostRider33763]

Thanks Scott. The photo's sure help. I wish we only had more room under the hood. Oh well...I've seen some other cars that barely have room at all. At least we have the beautiful Yamahammer under ours. Hey congrats on changing those Rod bearings.

Thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

David,

On mine, the oil just ran down the front face of the block and merged with the oil leaking from the front main seal.

Steve

 

[sdpatt]

I did have some oil on the belt and in side the covers from the leaking intake camshaft seals.

 

[DavidT]

Scott,
wow! it looks like you took a hose to the front end of your engine... it looks awesome! DId you just dab some cleaner on a towel and do a meticulous job, or what?
Also,
to replace the seal at the cam sensor, is it necessary to remove all the stuff at the front end? (including the battery). Nothing HAS to be removed there does it?

 

[projectSHO89]

If you think you can get to the seal without removing stuff, go ahead and try.

The seal is hard enough to get out of there with everything removed and the engine jacked up (MTX especially).

Steve

 

[sdpatt]

I used the ubiquitous intake cleaner spray to clean the front of the engine. I realize that those two photos give a "before and after" look to the rear head. The engine cleaned up really well with just the intake cleaner spray. I had a catch pan under the engine and tarp on the floor to collect the run off of solvent and crud. I feel much better about the health and longevityof my engine after stopping the oil leaks (and all the other parts replacements) over the last week. Here is another shot of the "after" view.

 

[Yamaha V6]

FYI, just like I've seen people use CPS for crank sensor & cam sensor, I've have people say Cam ID & crank ID. Also, he mentioned getting at it from the bottom, which made me think crank sensor, not cam sensor.

That's all. Just wanted to be clear.

Scott - you leave the waterpump pulley on for your services?

 

[sdpatt]

Yamaha V6:
Scott - you leave the waterpump pulley on for your services?

Only when I am not touching the water pump - which is rarely. I had installed a remanufactured unit about 45,000 miles ago and with its lifetime warranty, do not plan to replace it until I can do it for free. Also, the water pump is my least favorite part of the front end service due to the coolant mess.

 

[DavidT]

I definitely don't understand.
The CID is on the back side facing the firewall. Why would all the front end part need to come off?