Brakes, Bushings and Bearings

[sdpatt]

I made several replacements and upgrades to the old SHO last night and this morning. I had received the aluminum subframe bushings from SHO NUT (thanks Nick) to correct my subframe "clunk" during acceleration and braking. I had also picked up two rear wheel hub and bearing assemblies at AutoZone yesterday. The Performance Friction pads were already on hand since I have two sets to make replacements a non-premeditated job. I also have several exhaust ****** donut gaskets in the parts department too.

I replaced the subframe bushings with the aluminum bushings and recall kit last night. I replace the two fronts and the two rears as a pair so that I don't have to drop the whole subframe as a piece. The clunk is no more, but I noticed the increase in noise and vibration in the passenger compartment quickly, but I hope this is offset by the sharper handling when the roads dry out.

A complication that arose out of this change was that my power steering system is now moaning and vibrating at low engine speeds when the steering wheel is turned slowly. With the wheels off the ground, there was no vibration experienced, but with the wheels on the ground, the extra effort required results in the vibration. This is not acceptable. Has anybody have any similar symptoms from their power steering system? I picked up some new fluid to flush and replace the system and I plan on a thorough inspection of the hoses and tubing in the power steering system. I have not been ale to locate any physical interferences.

On a more positive note, the replacement of both rear wheel hubs and bearings was a simple task. Basically remove the caliper and rotor for a brake job and then remove the 36mm hub nut. The hub and bearings are not packed with grease on my 1991, but instead the bearings are sealed. They appeared to be in good shape, but I have been hearing a low pitched groan from the rear end at low speeds. The new hubs and bearings eliminated the groaning.

While at that job, since only a little extra pumping of the jack handle can get both tires on one side of the car off the ground, I also rotated the tires and greased the outer tie rod ends. It was while removing the left front wheel and tire that I noticed that the outer brake pad was down to about 1/16" of pad. Pulling the spare box of Performance Friction C-M pads off the shelf made quick work of the front brakes. The old pads were returned to AutoZone for a new set under the lifetime warranty. Cool.

The dropping of the subframe also stressed the exhaust ****** gasket (no, I didn't bother to unbolt the ******) and created an exhaust leak. A few minutes later, a new ROL gasket had returned the exhaust to a mellow Borla purr.

In summary, one subframe clunk gone, one rear wheel bearing groan silenced, refreshed front brakes and a new opportunity to learn something about the power steering system. And the SHO goes on....


------------------
Scott

1991, 254K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, Al SFB, SS front/rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
6 disc CD, Class II hitch, Silver award at SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[srfdude]

I've been thinking about new SFCs; there was a suspicion that the al. ones would be substantially noiser. Your experience shows me right. Think I'll call Citrus Ford and get the stock replacements, if they are still available. After all these lasted half as long as yours, Scott ;-) or have you already changed yours? Incidentally does the SF have to be dropped to change the Y-pipe? If so then I'll wait to do them both. My HC was one point below max the last smog check, while everything else was well down in the green. I suspect O2 sensors, and maybe cats. Any other likely culprits?
Mike

 

[Bigjoey71]

Why do you need to get the recall kit when you change the bushings? Also, how much were the aluminum bushings? I am in desperate need of changing the bushings. What is the price difference between the police package bushings and the aluminum?
Thanks,
joe

 

[sdpatt]

The noise and vibration weren't THAT bad, just noticeable. I had replaced the subframe bushings once before, probably around the 125,000 mile zone. The Y-pipe does not require the removal of the subframe, just the two 15mm nuts on each exhaust manifold ******, the 18mm bolts on the cat ****** and the bracket on the oil pan (removed for aftermarket pipes). The HC would indicate a rich mixture. Oxygen sensors would be the first question, dirty MAF sensor filaments the next. Cats? I'm more of a dog guy.

The aluminum bushings were $125 from SHO NUT. There were also the two, $14.10 each recall kits. I haven't seen a price on the police paskage bushings. The recall kits have stronger, more corrosion resistent bolts, a corrosion resistent lower washer and corrosion resistent anchor nuts (and rubber plugs to fill the hole in the floor pan that is cut to replace the anchor nuts under the footwells). The aluminum bushings really need the lower washer to help distribute the bolt load across the softer aluminum. Norther state SHOs would be much better off with the new bolts and anchor nuts. My Texas SHO had little rust on the bolt and anchor nuts. I used the new bolts and washers, but left the old anchor nuts because the new ones are a pain to install in the frame.

Scott

 

[philw349]

FWIW I've got the aluminum bushings and the steering system does moan audibly. Don't know about the vibrations though, but I might just be used to it. One good side effect of the bushings was it fixed the steering drift I could never seem to get rid of no matter how many times it was aligned.



[This message has been edited by philw349 (edited 01-26-2002).]