Brake pad and rotor choices

[SHOGUN88]

I beg to differ! The SS lines give you a firmer peddle, which allows you to better modulate the brakes(even with stock pads).

X2, the issue is mostly on the front. The lines dont fit into the stock brackets so you have to do some dremal work or filing out to fit. Main thing is to make sure they don't rub on the tires. Not really that big of deal.

 

[RonPorter]

I wasn't aware I cheaped out, all of the things I read put carbon metallics on a pedestal, only one way to find out I guess.

There are carbon metallic pads made by many vendors. The PFCM were good in their day 20 years ago, but there is better out there.

 

[waffles]

There are carbon metallic pads made by many vendors. The PFCM were good in their day 20 years ago, but there is better out there.

I see, I'll be sure to give em a review and change em if they suck donkey balls

 

[RonPorter]

If it isn't obvious, after trying a number of pads over the years in my SHOs, I have become a Carbotech Fanboy!! I had run 3-4 sets of AX6 pads on my LGT (Legacy GT Turbo) wioth great success. I now have XP10 front/XP8 rear on my '89 SHO, and XP 10s on the front of my Focus SVT.

The XP10 pads dust as much as the AX6, but are actually quieter on both cars!! And the XP10s are fine in the cold. Very first stop down the driveway is slower, but fine after that.

Anyway, here is some good reading from Carbotech on pad materials, and their pads:

http://www.ctbrakes.com/faq/faqanswers.html#_4

Plus their basic sites:

http://www.ctbrakes.com/

http://www.ctbrakes.com/overview.html

 

[waffles]

If it isn't obvious, after trying a number of pads over the years in my SHOs, I have become a Carbotech Fanboy!! I had run 3-4 sets of AX6 pads on my LGT (Legacy GT Turbo) wioth great success. I now have XP10 front/XP8 rear on my '89 SHO, and XP 10s on the front of my Focus SVT.

The XP10 pads dust as much as the AX6, but are actually quieter on both cars!! And the XP10s are fine in the cold. Very first stop down the driveway is slower, but fine after that.

Anyway, here is some good reading from Carbotech on pad materials, and their pads:

http://www.ctbrakes.com/faq/faqanswers.html#_4

Plus their basic sites:

http://www.ctbrakes.com/

http://www.ctbrakes.com/overview.html

Thanks! I'm not to worried about brake dust as I wash my car like the second it gets dirty.

 

[waffles]

I bought calipers and rotors locally, I asked them if they had a brake bleeder pump and they said they should just "let gravity do its thing" and open the bleeder screws until fluid comes out. I have never heard of this before, does it work?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I bought calipers and rotors locally, I asked them if they had a brake bleeder pump and they said they should just "let gravity do its thing" and open the bleeder screws until fluid comes out. I have never heard of this before, does it work?

No you still need to pump the system. Have some one help you pump while you open the bleeders.

 

[RonPorter]

I bought calipers and rotors locally, I asked them if they had a brake bleeder pump and they said they should just "let gravity do its thing" and open the bleeder screws until fluid comes out. I have never heard of this before, does it work?

Yes, it does work.....but it takes awhile.

If you are going to be doing your own brakes, the BEST tool on the market is the Motive pressure bleeder:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

For SHOs, get this one with the Universal adaptor:

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Round-Universal-Bleeder-0101_p_132.html

The Ford screw-on adaptor doesn't work on old SHOs because the threads on the m/c are too wimpy (although it works on newer Ford products......and my Subaru).

IMNSHO, after using other methods, this is the BEST, and it is truly a one-man operation.

Only tips are to get a longer hardware-store chain, plus I tap the calipers with a hammer while flushing to dislodge any errant bubbles.

 

[waffles]

Yes, it does work.....but it takes awhile.

If you are going to be doing your own brakes, the BEST tool on the market is the Motive pressure bleeder:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

For SHOs, get this one with the Universal adaptor:

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Round-Universal-Bleeder-0101_p_132.html

The Ford screw-on adaptor doesn't work on old SHOs because the threads on the m/c are too wimpy (although it works on newer Ford products......and my Subaru).

IMNSHO, after using other methods, this is the BEST, and it is truly a one-man operation.

Only tips are to get a longer hardware-store chain, plus I tap the calipers with a hammer while flushing to dislodge any errant bubbles.

Those are a bit pricey for my college kid budget, do the cheaper hand pumps on amazon work? I may just do it the old fashion way.

 

[jayro]

Those are a bit pricey for my college kid budget, do the cheaper hand pumps on amazon work? I may just do it the old fashion way.

They can, but not the best. I would say get a helper to pump the brakes if possible. The hand held vac pump would be last on my list to use.

 

[RonPorter]

For $60-$70, you have a tool that will last you a LONG time, and is the perfect tool for the job.

Cut back on the Starbucks and get one!!

 

[jayro]

For $60-$70, you have a tool that will last you a LONG time, and is the perfect tool for the job.

Cut back on the Starbucks and get one!!

They are VERY nice to use. It takes longer to set it up then actually bleed the brakes. While you can bleed the brakes without it, it is well worth the money.

 

[RonPorter]

They are VERY nice to use. It takes longer to set it up then actually bleed the brakes. While you can bleed the brakes without it, it is well worth the money.

Yep, the setup takes about 3x as long as the actual flush, but it is one of those tools that I consider indispensable.

 

[waffles]

Yep, the setup takes about 3x as long as the actual flush, but it is one of those tools that I consider indispensable.

I'm on a budget, but I might just ditch the ss lines and buy the bleeder instead:angelnot:

 

[RonPorter]

I'm on a budget, but I might just ditch the ss lines and buy the bleeder instead:angelnot:

GOOD PLAN!!

 

[waffles]

GOOD PLAN!!

So all I need is just http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Round-Universal-Bleeder-0101_p_132.html right?

 

[RonPorter]

So all I need is just http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Round-Universal-Bleeder-0101_p_132.html right?

Yep. The Ford-specific cap doesn't work on SHOs. Once you get it, get a longer length of the chain from a hardware store, Easier to install.

Plus, once you put it on, first check it with air pressure (I use 20 psi) before you put in fluid, to check for leaks. You really have to crank it tight on the m/c. If you don't check first, you will be amazed at how quickly it can pump a quart of fluid on the driveway!! BTDT......

 

[waffles]

Yep. The Ford-specific cap doesn't work on SHOs. Once you get it, get a longer length of the chain from a hardware store, Easier to install.

Plus, once you put it on, first check it with air pressure (I use 20 psi) before you put in fluid, to check for leaks. You really have to crank it tight on the m/c. If you don't check first, you will be amazed at how quickly it can pump a quart of fluid on the driveway!! BTDT......

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it once I pay the bills....

 

[waffles]

GOOD PLAN!!

ORDERED.

 

[K-Dawg]

The chain that came with my PowerBleeder was plenty long enough.