Brake bleeding

[munkee]

Is there any other way to bleed the abs system other than using the rotunda tool?

 

[twr]

From what I recall, just bleed the brakes as normal. Then take the car out on a dirt/gravel road and stomp on the brakes the the ABS fires off a few times, then bleed again. Repeat as needed.

 

[94mtx]

im not sure if there is a difference in and abs vs. non abs system as far as bleeding goes. i use the russell speed bleeders, which are bleeder screws with a check valve them, and when you turn them 1/4-1/2 a turn it opens up the check valve and allows the fluid to leave but no air to enter. only takes one person and a length of hose to put in a bottle. just remember to close it before you start driving!!

jon

 

[Bluto]

To avoid messing with the relief of the ABS system, bleed the car while all four wheels are on the ground. Do not jack it up.

 

[SHOZ123]

BTW something I didn't know is that the diagonal brake system on our SHOs should be bleed in the following manner.

Right rear, left front, left rear, right front per Helm.

 

[munkee]

bluto, what exactly does leaving all four wheels on the ground do? I am curious as I have never heard of doing that before but I am definately open to whatever works!

 

[Bluto]

From what I have read(at least on a 94).
If you use a lift or a jack, the suspension drops and activated an ABS actuator, that closes the flow of fluid to the brakes. This has something to do with brake controll over major bumps in the road.

I know it sounds strange, but I was having a **** of a time bleeding the rears. I did a little research, and read not to jack up the car.

Sure enough I tried it with all 4 on the ground, and they were very easy to bleed.
-Bluto

 

[RStalveyARFF]

that was the load level sensor. When the wheels are off the ground there's almost no fluid flow to the rear brakes.

 

[Bizzy]

so while you have your tire off so you can get to the bleeder screw easily, one should lower thier jack down a bit to make it so the car is just about level. Right?

I have 4 speedbleeders that I'm gonna put in soon as I can get a chance to, that way I can get the nasty 8yr old fluid out of my brake system.

 

[94mtx]

I have 4 speedbleeders that I'm gonna put in soon as I can get a chance to, that way I can get the nasty 8yr old fluid out of my brake system. [/QB]

WOW!!!hope your kidding, it would probably be like water by now. and speedbleeders are cool, i like mine, just get a section of aquarium hose from walmart or something to place over the end.

jon

 

[RStalveyARFF]

this is what I do. I place the front on jackstands, then I lower the rear control arms onto jackstands, which pushes the load level sensor to open. Make sure you do this so the whole car is level, and if you can, use a jackstand for each rear control arm.

 

[rangerj]

Gentlemen,

Brake fluid does not circulate through the system.
It moves a very small distance when the brakes are applied. As the brake pads wear it does fill the void as the caliper piston moves out, so to this extent it "circulates".

What this means is that the ABS pump has to be bled if you want the whole system filled with fresh fluid. The only way to bleed the ABS is to access the ABS computer, and put the ABS pumps in the proper position for bleeding. This can only be done with the proper scan equipment like the Rotunda.

Buy a high quality brake fluid like ATE blue or ATE gold, or Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Activity). Ford also has a high heat/low moisture activity brake fluid, but you would have to order it.

I doubt if any dealerships keep it on hand because it is expensive. The aforementioned are all DOT 4 rated brake fluids. DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT DOT 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID (period).

There are some other top quality brake fluids with very high heat ranges but are not necessary for "street" use. Do you want to pay $70 a pint for brake fluid?

To save a few dollars you can bleed all of your lines and calipers with fresh fluid. Then take the vehicle to a dealership, or any other shop that has the equipment to bleed the ABS, and have the ABS bled with your choice of fluid.

It is best to bleed the brake fluid every year, but as a practicle matter if you bleed it when you replace your brakes with low moisture activity fluid you should be OK. (every 2 to 3 years)

Keep in mind that it only take about 4% moisture in you brake fluid to render it useless! See the SHO Times FAQ regarding brake fluid. rangerj

 

[Bluto]

I am a pretty big guy, and had no truoble reaching around to bleed the brakes with the tires on.

I have never flushed my brake system. I think I would just have a garage do it due to the ABS.

Rangerj,
Is there only a tiny amount in the ABS pumps?
-Bluto

 

[Slo-Sho]

DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT support the vehicles weight with a jack stand underneath any of the four rear control arms! Find another suitable jacking point. I have seen them bend from people in shops trying to do this.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

slosho:
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT support the vehicles weight with a jack stand underneath any of the four rear control arms! Find another suitable jacking point. I have seen them bend from people in shops trying to do this.

That's why you use a jackstand per control arm smartass. The control arms are vertically very strong, but laterally they can flex greatly. Would you suggest using the strut rod?? How bout a wheel stud? Go on to shifting your ATX manually.

<small>[ January 19, 2003, 12:59 PM: Message edited by: SHO91MTX ]</small>

 

[munkee]

I do believe I can reach the brake bleeders without jacking up the car as Bluto suggested. I didn't know about the load level sensor, but that might explain why it took so long to bleed the rear brakes. The local ford dealership lets me borrow several of their tools but the rotunda abs bleeding tool and breakout box etc. is not one of them. Looks like I might have to bleed them as best I can for now until I can have a shop bleed the HCU. Thanks for all of the input, I learned a few things from this post.

 

[pete c]

Just replaced my shot rear left caliper. Jumped in to push the pedal to the floor but the pedal is hard as a rock. WTF? So here I am checking the ole trusty forum. Looks like the completely unsprung rear left wheel is causing this. Don't know what I'd do without this place (probably buy a honda).

Thanks guys.

 

[projectSHO89]

Put the LR corner on a jackstand, then put your floor jack under the LR knuckle. Raise the jack until all "hang" is out of that side, then proceed to bleed the rear brakes.

Steve