Bought 95 ATX - Several Problems

[DB3MPD]

I bought a 95 ATX last fall. The odometer showed 36,*** when I purchased it. Now, it has 37,300. The car does not appear to be a 37K vehicle even though the title stated the mileage was accurate as did the CarFax. Anyhow, the SHO is now my wife's daily driver since she spun off the highway to miss a cat and practically totaled our other vehicle. Since putting it on the road full time, I've had several problems. I replaced the Multi-Function Switch which resolved my turn signal/wiper problem. I replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends, the front stabilizer links, and the wheel bearings to resolve a wandering steering wheel. That has failed. It has helped some, but the steering wheel tends to wander with about an inch of play either direction from center. Would welding the strut rod at the subframe and replacing the bushings finally solve this problem? Lastly, my fuel pump would growl when the ignition was turned on. The engine would fire but run rough and then stall. I replaced the pump with a Bosch of higher LPH. Car ran fine for a day, no problem. Day two: Turned ignition on, pump growled again! Car fired and ran ok. Sorry, last problem - whistle from engine area. Hard to locate. May be coming from throttle body area. Any resolutions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Redneck1465]

Whistle sounds like a vacuum leak.

 

[DB3MPD]

Checked all lines. All appeared OK. Sprayed starter fluid by all gaskets,seals,vacuum lines, ect. No change in idle. Sounded as if whistle is coming from IAC. Is this possible?

 

[SHOtimer]

My original IAC whistled, I replaced it & it has been quiet ever since.

In regards to the wandering wheel, yes the strut rods bushings make a HUGE difference, and if the cups are broken loose that can just aggravate the problem worse.

What are the conditions of your ball joints?

The fuel pump problem, does this only occur when the motor is hot and then left off for awhile, and then you are trying to restart?

Doug

 

[Wavemagnet]

Isn't the wandering wheel caused by a loose pinch bolt on the steering column, which is a common problem?

 

[Wavemagnet]

The hard start rough running, idle speed control on top of the intake?

 

[DB3MPD]

Will the whistle from the IAC pose a problem or should it be replaced? Also, the ball joints are fine, inspected those when the hub was taken off for bearing change. Have considered doing the moog strut rod and spot weld "upgrade". but have not had a chance. Not familiar with the pinch bolt, however. Would it cause a problem with the controls on the steering column. I replaced the multi-function switch only to find the turn signals now quit for an unknown reason as they did prior to the switch replacement and then work when they decide to. As for the fuel pump, I'd say most of the time if not all the time, the engine was hot and it was on re-start.

 

[SHOtimer]

The pinch bolt was only an issue on SHO's up to '92 from what I remember.

Your fuel pump issue is the "fuel return line check valve". When you removed the fuel pump you were looking right at it without knowing it. It holds the pressure in the fuel return line to keep it under pressure.

When it fails and you shut off the motor, the fuel in the fuel rails ontop of the motor gets hot and boils, so you loose pressure and get air in it. So, when you re-start it you get the crappy running. The gurgling you hear in the fuel tank is the air bubbles and fuel being pumped back into the tank.

When it does that cycle the iginition several times (the runs the fuel pump for 3-5 seconds) - untill the gurgling stops, then you will have cool fuel in the lines and the motor should start right up like normal.

If you check out this link
:http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...le=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=75

It documents the fuel pump replacement procedure and shows the fuel return link check valve. It is pictured with the fuel pump, it is the orange rubber "duck bill" type valve held on with the green clamp. It just needs to be replaced. The part number is: E53Z9H318-A

This is also a good thread where spdatt provides a good explanation to the check valve:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=6822&highlight=fuel+return+line+check+valve

When my IAC whistled it was only a audio problem, I had no driveability problems, but it bugged me so I replaced it.

Doug

 

[DB3MPD]

Thanks Doug!!! Major relief especially after having spent some serious cash. Three problems down, one to go. Anybody have a solution to the intermittent turn signal malfunction?