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FiveLeeter918

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Well I haven't got the barcode number changed yet. It's only different by a couple of the trailing digits. I might have to inquire about what these barcodes mean exactly.
There's a noticeable difference on take off. I have wheel chatter (chirp, chirp, chirp) instead of a squawk on launch. From the looks of the Livewire log it doesn't suddenly jump to 9 mph wheel speed. Instead there's a burst of acceleration up to 9 miles per hour. Then the usual acceleration slope. Hitting the throttle in a turn now kicks the back end out, like a rear wheel drive.

Tear it down and see what it looks like. It would be neat to see what these look like at different intervals to determine if it's a serviceable item that should be replaced at XX,*** miles for optimal performance.
 

FiveLeeter918

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Okay today I replace the torque coupling on the RDU. I did this in the car, cuz I didn't feel like tearing the entire suspension apart to drop the differential. Took longer but less work. Just waiting for the silicone to dry.

did you make a guide by chance? Would be a cool thing to share especially if these ATCs go anywhere with AKD in the near future.
 

Bluezone

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Tear it down and see what it looks like. It would be neat to see what these look like at different intervals to determine if it's a serviceable item that should be replaced at XX,*** miles for optimal performance.
From what I've seen a teardown is a nightmare with these things. Very hard to get the cover off of the actual clutch pack.
See video.
There is an available clutch replacement from Ford for the 2013 and up. See my post. Unfortunately it wasn't made a sticky. We really really need a guide section.
did you make a guide by chance? Would be a cool thing to share especially if these ATCs go anywhere with AKD in the near future.
I considered doing one. Unfortunately I was pressed for time. I can still do something up to show what you need to do. There are a couple ins-and-outs you need to know if you tackle this. I will get on that as soon as the rain stops around here.
 
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802SHO

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Well I haven't got the barcode number changed yet. It's only different by a couple of the trailing digits. I might have to inquire about what these barcodes mean exactly.
There's a noticeable difference on take off. I have wheel chatter (chirp, chirp, chirp) instead of a squawk on launch. From the looks of the Livewire log it doesn't suddenly jump to 9 mph wheel speed. Instead there's a burst of acceleration up to 9 miles per hour. Then the usual acceleration slope. Hitting the throttle in a turn now kicks the back end out, like a rear wheel drive.
Sounds like a win win!
 

Bluezone

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Sorry been a little busy the last little while. Yesterday installed the performance pack rear shocks in my car. I need a little more stiffness for launching.
That brings me to the next thing I've got a track day in about 2 weeks. Supposed to be about 50°. Hopefully some of the mods I've been doing help me get solidly in the 12's.
I still have a couple of ideas to take care of before then.
 

Bluezone

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Okay I've made several suspension related traction improvements and other tweaks to the car sense last year. Before all that I had picked up the Nitto NT 01 tires. So under less-than-ideal conditions, around 40 degrees Fahrenheit, I made a run with the new tires. Should be interesting at the track doing comparison runs between the Continental extreme contact and the Nitto Tires.
Ya, i let off a little early.
Not too shabby for a car that dynoed only 305 hp. Lol
Screenshot 20220424 141350 PhotosScreenshot 20220424 141318 Photos
 

Bluezone

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Today I lowered the centre of gravity on my MKS by dropping the motor and transmission down 3/8 of an inch. I inserted spacers between the upper mount and the transmission and engine side lower mount. was shooting for half an inch but I would have had to replace several studs.
I simply stacked six 1/16 of an inch thick washers to make up 3/8 of an inch. Hopefully this will slightly reduced the weight transfer from the front to the rear. I think that's somewhere around 900 lb that I've lowered.
 

Bluezone

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Well dropping the motor three eighths of an inch seems to have helped a little bit. Here's a couple more shots of some 0 to 60 runs from last year with the Nitto nt01. One day time run one night time run. Screenshot 20220430 023441 PhotosScreenshot 20220430 023323 Photos
 

802SHO

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Well dropping the motor three eighths of an inch seems to have helped a little bit. Here's a couple more shots of some 0 to 60 runs from last year with the Nitto nt01. One day time run one night time run. View attachment 83949View attachment 83950
No one has tried that ^^^^ or thought of that I believe except you. That’s one **** of a driver mod!
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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did you make a guide by chance? Would be a cool thing to share especially if these ATCs go anywhere with AKD in the near future.
I'm in the middle of my tear down and write up of it. I'm actually having a tough go of it because it seems the ATC is slightly different internally.

I'm sending a ton of front/rear diff parts to WPC here in a bit, just trying to get that last pinion gear out, but that 2" (actually its a 50mm, but I don't have one) nut is NOT breaking loose. I've got a 3/4" air impact on it with no luck. Issue is...it spins....can't get anything on the other side to hold it.

I'm also not having any luck disassembling the ATC. The magnet isn't coming out, and I can't get it out of the case either. Looks like it's pressed in at the input shaft bearing. Anyway, its still early in. I need to take it to my press at work I think...
 

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Bluezone

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BlueZone,

How did you refill that after you put it back together? What weight fluid did you use?

Frank
I didn't tear down my clutch pack. I picked up a low-mileage unit from a auto wreckers. From what I recall reading, the clutch pack uses "special" oil. Translation of this is it synthetic oil.
 

Bluezone

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I'm in the middle of my tear down and write up of it. I'm actually having a tough go of it because it seems the ATC is slightly different internally.

I'm sending a ton of front/rear diff parts to WPC here in a bit, just trying to get that last pinion gear out, but that 2" (actually its a 50mm, but I don't have one) nut is NOT breaking loose. I've got a 3/4" air impact on it with no luck. Issue is...it spins....can't get anything on the other side to hold it.

I'm also not having any luck disassembling the ATC. The magnet isn't coming out, and I can't get it out of the case either. Looks like it's pressed in at the input shaft bearing. Anyway, its still early in. I need to take it to my press at work I think...
I'm not sure whether or not a crush sleeve is used to set the pinion depth. If it does, they are not reusable.
 

FiveLeeter918

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I didn't tear down my clutch pack. I picked up a low-mileage unit from a auto wreckers. From what I recall reading, the clutch pack uses "special" oil. Translation of this is it synthetic oil.
Stephen used Red Line Lightweight Shockproof with Friction Modifier in mine. Just have to soak them in it before installation to get complete coverage and then top it off once installed.
 

Bluezone

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For this coming Sunday I have my next chance at a track day. It's looking to be about 65 degrees and sunny. I will try two or three runs with the Continental extremecontact dws06 Plus and the rest of the runs are going to be on the Nitto nt01's.
I have a couple more details to take care of with the car before it goes to the track. So far I found I had some boost leaks due to not quite tight piping clamps.
Over the last month I've added performance pack rear shocks and lowered the engine a small amount. Had the alignment specs set to 2013 + models. Plus last year I added some anti-lift geometry to the front end, but never got a chance to see how it worked at the track(rained out).
I'm planning in the next couple days to get the wastegates synced. I suspect this might be the cause of my weird ignition timing flutter and slight variations in measured AFR bank-to-bank during high WGDC. I got rained out before I got a chance to do this while I was tackling the clamps.
I took a run in the rain and the results were quite promising. I had virtually no Tire Spin and a 12 second 100 mph run in the rain (TC on).
I've need to order a phonetic spacer, from X35 Design, to go along with my divorced thermostat intake manifold. This is for the next outing two weeks from this Sunday. Should prove interesting. Thinking about adding some cooling to the manifold to go along with phenolic spacer as well.
 

Bluezone

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I ordered the phenolic spacer today. Unfortunately X35 Design doesn't have any in stock at the moment. So it might not arrive in time for the following track session. Crossing my fingers.
 

Bluezone

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Okay I checked at the wastegates and they were not in sync. The rear turbo was opening at maybe a half a PSI and the front turbo was opening at 3 PSI. I need to do a log to see if this has improved the symptoms I saw.
 

Bluezone

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Okay I did a log and run after setting the wastegates up. This was about 44° f. So cold tires and a bit of wheel spin. I came on it a bit too hard.
This was the Continental extreme contact DWS06 Plus, not the Nitto NT 01 tires . Dry roads. With 100 to 150 extra pounds of junk in the trunk, so that over the listed weight. About 350 to 400 lb total heavier than race weight. 20220506 00234820220506 002356
 
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802SHO

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Okay I did a log and run after setting the wastegates up. This was about 44° f. So cold tires and a bit of wheel spin. I came on it a bit too hard.
This was the Continental extreme contact DWS06 Plus, not the Nitto NT 01 tires . Dry roads. With 100 to 150 extra pounds of junk in the trunk, so that over the listed weight. About 350 to 400 lb total heavier than race weight. View attachment 83993View attachment 83992
Next Sunday is going to be a 12 sec pass!!
 

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