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A compatable steel replacment can be found at Coleman Racing. They have a large mailorder site. I believe the 20 1/2in tube is the size I used although mine are alum. hex tube. I use the curb/rumble and have never bent a thing. I suggest spending the difference and get the high quality 5/8 x1/2 Id rod end. www.colemanracing.comHack said:Jose, the TCE arms were steel but they are no longer availible. Doug at FPS sells purpose built aluminum pieces for $399. About the same as you would end up spending on the BMR units.
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I hope Doug does not mind me "hotlinking" that.
FWIW, I have seen a GM control arm bend on an SHO.
shoebilly said:A compatable steel replacment can be found at Coleman Racing. They have a large mailorder site. I believe the 20 1/2in tube is the size I used although mine are alum. hex tube. I use the curb/rumble and have never bent a thing. I suggest spending the difference and get the high quality 5/8 x1/2 Id rod end. www.colemanracing.com
Yes, you'll need two pairs of the forward mount arms.lunchbox0029 said:so theese are right http://www.bmrfabrication.com/W-Body.htm ?
shoebilly said:The part I used was a aluminum hex tie rod #19105 20"- 5/8' female rt.& lf. handed thread & used 5/8 x1/2ID male rod end. The knuckle needs to be drilled out to 1/2'. I did mention this part is availiable in steel. I an have a old catalog and the part is not listed. I would look in steering parts, tie rods, trailing arms & strut tubes. This is a good outfit to deal with. Check out pt.# rp-129-20 and 127-120 I don't have current prices but sould be in the $10 - $15 neigborhood ea.
jedhead said:We will have them for sale when we get "legal" paperwork done. Here is a picture.
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Some people have made their own.
Bob
SHOBros Garage
Of course they are, the purpose modifieing the rear links is quicker, easier, ajustments+more ajustability. Using sphereical rod ends eliminates all 8 rubber bushings on the links.ManySHOs said:They look nice but they aren't adjustable, are they?
Ian
shoebilly said:Of course they are, the purpose modifieing the rear links is quicker, easier, ajustments+more ajustability. Using sphereical rod ends eliminates all 8 rubber bushings on the links.
shoebilly said:This outfit www.colmanracing.com is a manufacturer of racing parts out of Michigan and anyone that wants these links will have to buy the parts piece by piece out of the catalog and use a little yankee inginuity to figure out whats needed to assemble a safe part. There are other oufits around regionally in my area so I'm sure there are others that might be more convenant for those in other regions. I can vouch for this place being quick on orders & technical help, but remember they are making race car parts not SHO parts. Ordering a catalog is free and there are lots of aftermarket brake components that one might find interesting.