Best Motor Mods For NOS? Need Ideas Please

[SHOspazz92]

Just did the Math at SHO SHOP and here is where I am with out the chip. Hi-Flow Y-Pipe +11 hp, Underdrive Pulleys + 4 hp, K&N Cold Air Induction + 5 hp, Throttle Body + 5 hp, 80mm MAF + 5 hp. that = 35Hp So it looks like SHO SHOP and FPS are on the same page. Not sure where you guys are.

I think they would know what they are talking about sense this is all they do. Don't you think???Then add the stage 1 Cams + 15hp and Big Bore Butterflies +10hp and Honing Intake Runners +10hp there is Another 30hp or so. Thanks Makes around 280hp Then add the 100 spot n2o = 380Hp

I did note even add for the chip. Is this math Not Right or what? Thanks for all the help Guys.

There is a good reason that SHO shop went out of buisness you know. FPS is good stuff but even his numbers are optimistic. Let's do the math the members of the SHO community have proved to be correct for the last...oh...15 or so years, Shall we?

*High Flow Y-Pipe 11+ Horsepower? Maybe, Thats a big maybe.
*UDP's? Maybe + 1 - They sure are good at dimming your headlights and making the car run a tad warmer.
*It has been proven that SHO's LOSE horsepower with a "Cold Air Intake". The stock airbox already is one and works perfectly fine
*Throttle Body? I personally have no idea.
*80MM MAF won't net much with a stock intake manifold, I'll give you 5+ Horsepower tho.

17 Horsepower!! :wave:

The point is, These people are not telling you these numbers for no reason. Why SHOshop (had) and FPS have an agenda (wich is getting your $ ) we do not. There numbers were very optimistic and proven to be so in the last few years.

-Sam


-Sam

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

There is a good reason that SHO shop went out of buisness you know. FPS is good stuff but even his numbers are optimistic. Let's do the math the members of the SHO community have proved to be correct for the last...oh...15 or so years, Shall we?

*High Flow Y-Pipe 11+ Horsepower? Maybe, Thats a big maybe.
*UDP's? Maybe + 1 - They sure are good at dimming your headlights and making the car run a tad warmer.
*It has been proven that SHO's LOSE horsepower with a "Cold Air Intake". The stock airbox already is one and works perfectly fine
*Throttle Body? I personally have no idea.
*80MM MAF won't net much with a stock intake manifold, I'll give you 5+ Horsepower tho.

17 Horsepower!! :wave:

The point is, These people are not telling you these numbers for no reason. Why SHOshop (had) and FPS have an agenda (wich is getting your $ ) we do not. There numbers were very optimistic and proven to be so in the last few years.

-Sam


-Sam

 

[SHO Dude]

SHO Dude = Horse's Mouth

35-45hp from Bolt-Ons must be measured in Russian HP on Russian Dyno.

15-20hp over stock is much more realistic.

That said, Randy Mercante's 97SHO put 315hp and 298tq on the tires with a 100+hp Dry Shot. But that was a 3.4L V-8 and ATX. Car went best of 13.11 at 105mph. Neat thing was the leave. We installed a progressive nitrous controller that at the hit, would feed in only a little juice and ramp up to 100% over about 4 seconds. We also installed a Line Lock system that locked all 4 brakes. The car would 2.10 - 60' every time.

Pull around the burn-out box, blip the throttle on the bottle to do a burn-out and purge the nitrous at the same time, then roll into the first light. Reset the timers, bump into the second light, stand on the brakes, hold the button and nail the throttle. The car would sit there on the converter until you let off the button at the bottom bulb. When you see the last yellow and let off the button, the Line Locks released, the nirtous controller started and the car would launch all by itself. Worked pretty damn good.

 

[SHOspazz92]

SHO Dude = Horse's Mouth

35-45hp from Bolt-Ons must be measured in Russian HP on Russian Dyno.

15-20hp over stock is much more realistic.

That said, Randy Mercante's 97SHO put 315hp and 298tq on the tires with a 100+hp Dry Shot. But that was a 3.4L V-8 and ATX. Car went best of 13.11 at 105mph. Neat thing was the leave. We installed a progressive nitrous controller that at the hit, would feed in only a little juice and ramp up to 100% over about 4 seconds. We also installed a Line Lock system that locked all 4 brakes. The car would 2.10 - 60' every time.

Pull around the burn-out box, blip the throttle on the bottle to do a burn-out and purge the nitrous at the same time, then roll into the first light. Reset the timers, bump into the second light, stand on the brakes, hold the button and nail the throttle. The car would sit there on the converter until you let off the button at the bottom bulb. When you see the last yellow and let off the button, the Line Locks released, the nirtous controller started and the car would launch all by itself. Worked pretty damn good.

Doug, Those are impressive times and quite honestly the fastest Gen III I've heard of. What else was done to this car? Besides one of your transmissions I imagin.

-Sam

 

[2sho4me]

I guess I will put the chip it then Dyno it and see where it is and go from there.

 

[SHO Dude]

Doug, Those are impressive times and quite honestly the fastest Gen III I've heard of. What else was done to this car? Besides one of your transmissions I imagin.

-Sam

Pretty-much a stock engine. The car had exhaust mods, one of our trannys, 13" Cobra brakes, springs, subframe connectors and a few other little things.

It can be done again, if anyone has the coin....

 

[SuperHO]

[hijack]

Hey Doug....is it possible for one of them chips to drop a tune? Mine wiggled loose a while back thanks to the lovely roads we have here in Michigan, and when it popped out, the car died. Took me a while to figure out why, but once I got the chip back in, things didn't feel right. She felt low on power, was running RICH as **** (bad enough to where my eyes were kinda watering from the fuel escaping the tailpipe at idle) and wouldn't rev past 6800rpms. Of course, that was back when I had a 3.0 in...I've tried it once on the 3.2, and it's the same. Did it drop the tune?

[/hijack]

If it were me, I'd run a dry 100 shot with a window switch set up not to spray at all in 1st (thanks to the notorious lack of traction for MTX SHOs in Michigan), spray from 4500-7k in 2nd, and 3800-7k in 3rd-5th.


But then again, a turbo setup costs a bit more from the get go, but you don't have to keep refilling it....

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

I only made like 260whp with-3.0, 80mm MAF, 69mm TB, BBB's w/out plates, EH'd runners, and Stage 1 cams on a tad less than a 100 shot. Im sure I can find the sheet if you wanna see the dyno. Oh, it was completely untuned btw.

[hijack]


If it were me, I'd run a dry 100 shot with a window switch set up not to spray at all in 1st (thanks to the notorious lack of traction for MTX SHOs in Michigan), spray from 4500-7k in 2nd, and 3800-7k in 3rd-5th.


But then again, a turbo setup costs a bit more from the get go, but you don't have to keep refilling it....

I never had wheelspin problems on the street let alone the strip. Of course i had a Quaife and full suspension. As for a clutch I had a Southbend DXD(their 6 puck, they have changed some names since I got it) and NEVER had any slip issues. That clutch literally outlasted 2 cars.

 

[Toolman]

Look at my classified ad, I have a nitrous ready forged 3.2, low miles, rebuilt with new bearings, new seals.

 

[thecrew2999]

rod bearings come to mind right away

 

[SuperHO]

I never had wheelspin problems on the street let alone the strip. Of course i had a Quaife and full suspension.

You, my friend, never ran at Martin/US 131 Motorsports park/Knoll Gas Dragway with street tires.....

 

[shoclown]

i will probably get the hammer becouse i know alot of you either dont like them or think that the are a waste of time and money for the sho.BUT!!!
i cannot even begin to tell you how nice it is to be able to smooth out the power and fuel holes from modification. ( meaning cause and effect) i put on a bigger maf and injectors and now it is not a percise as the original program.
the best way to go is a tweecer (from what i have read) although they are kind of pricey. Becouse the cost so much and i did not have the money at the time for a tweecer ( then again i still dont have the money)
So this created a problem and i was able to fix mine for 60 bucks..
I bought a APEXI VAFCII you can also use a safc i or II or neo.
this allows you you lie to the ecm.. changing signal to help dial in the fuel system.
These work very well, i know there are alot of hatters on this subject, but they work.
are cheap and you can get them all over ebay craigslist etc.
now they can be a little trying to hook up ( not hard just instructions are in japanese) but there are several english versions on the net. if you go this route and need help on wiring install pm me and i will send how i hooked up mine.
theese really do work i have ran them one dynos to check emmisions output and have seen good results. i know it is not a tweecer and it is probanbbly not capable of doing the same stuff but for the cost and what it does i think it is well worth it.
Okay so now is your key to hammer if you dont like them.