best brakes for the buck

[stuntstud2]

If this is in the wrong section, moderators feel free to switch it. I didn't know where the brake section was. Just like the title says. What is the best kit to get when compared to price. In fact what options do I have anyways? I don't know a lot about brakes so I am trying to do my research. Let me know what you guys would suggest. I want brakes that shed heat effectively and quickly. I also want a lot of stopping power.

 

[Shoaz]

I was going to ask what "best" means to you, but you've given a pretty good hint on shedding heat and stopping well.

Do you take your car to road course track events or will this be street only?

What sorts of wheels do you want to be able to use? Slicers only?

All of these things make a big difference in what the answer will be.

If your car still has the stock brakes, you can get a lot of improvement just by doing the 96 upgrade, which is good bang for the buck, but may not be what you need if you go to track events (it may, but it's may be marginal).

 

[Mike Kopstain]

An obvious plug to myself: 13" inch PBR setup

Comes with 2 aluminum PBR dual piston calipers, 2 13" rotors (weigh only .7 lbs over 11.6" rotors), banjo bolts, Hawk KPS pads, and all necessary fittings.

It's one of the cheaper kits (pricewise ) but I've yet to see someone make a set fade.

Todd Cook also offers a Wilwood kit that works with the 96' brake upgrade. For size/ weight constraints, that's a good direction to take also.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

With such cheap, and easy to get rotors my '89 loves Hawk pads.

Excellent braking for typical to mildly agressive driving. But I can only imagine how hot my lil' rotors would get on an autocross course rofl they would probably expload doh

 

[Yamaha V6]

FOR THE BUCK, 96 brake upgrade is about what the factory cars SHOULD have come with (prior to 96 of course). Add stainless braided lines for about $100 from Jeg's or Summit Racing - big difference in pedal feel.

The parts are available separately, or you can find someone who has the entire upgrade ready to purchase (shameless plug here), like me.

Seriously, I have a drilled rotor setup from my 91, which I did the upgrade on before moving to the Wilwood brakes. Honestly, I like the feel of the 96's with the lines over the feel of the Wilwoods (though the Wilwoods get the job done on the track, where the 96's would fade after repeated hard braking). I'm selling my setup with 2 ABS sensors (1 new in box) for $400. This isn't a push to sell, as I had a guy interested in them, but to let you know the cost. That's for knuckles, this-year-new wheel bearings, calipers & brackets, rotors & pads, & ABS sensors - essentially, bolt this whole setup to the strut & go.

On a side note, the dual-piston PBR (Baer, etc.) is a great way to go, but the 13" setup requires 17" wheels, where the 96 upgrade fits under slicers. Pedal feel on the PBR is better than the Wilwoods.

Good luck with whatever brakes you get.

 

[DoC-JoneS]

oem replacemtn rotors + Performance Friction Carbo-Met pads, have been doing very well for me. only $200 for 4 new rotors, pads, pins and dot 4 fluid. for the money it's a good upgrade. as far as your car goes it being '91, i'd look into the 11.6" rear upgrade by MidwestSHO. then you'd have better all around braking.

 

[drivinhard]

"I also want a lot of stopping power"

Get the stickiest tires you can! Ultimate stopping power is based on the grip of the tire. Average brakes and sticky tires beats $2,000 brakes and so-so tires anyday.

If you plan to drive pretty much on the street (no track work) a boneyard 96 brake upgrade is the way I'd go.

 

[stuntstud2]

I guess what I am trying to do is build the ultimate SHO (I know I have some big shoes to fill eek! ). Right now the car is driven just on the street. I am not sure if it will be a track car in the future or not. Alls I know is that I want to stop better than anyone else. I plan on getting some 17in or 18 in wheels, so brake fitment shouldn't be a problem. I just want to do the brake upgrade once the correct way. Will having race bred brakes be dangerous for the street (ie not realizing that I can stop a lot sooner than everyone else)? And will the race bred brakes hold up under street use? The SHO is not my everyday car.

 

[Shoaz]

stuntstud2:
I guess what I am trying to do is build the ultimate SHO (I know I have some big shoes to fill eek! ). Right now the car is driven just on the street. I am not sure if it will be a track car in the future or not. Alls I know is that I want to stop better than anyone else. I plan on getting some 17in or 18 in wheels, so brake fitment shouldn't be a problem. I just want to do the brake upgrade once the correct way. Will having race bred brakes be dangerous for the street (ie not realizing that I can stop a lot sooner than everyone else)? And will the race bred brakes hold up under street use? The SHO is not my everyday car.

Well, "ultimate" and "correct" depend completely on what you want to do. The answer will still be different depending on even your own personal taste.

I would suggest putting the 96 upgrade on your car just so that you can see how you like it. It really is a good brake setup for the street, autocross, or carefully managed track use, and it isn't expensive. Another upside of this is that if you decide that it isn't enough for you, there are several kits available that bolt up to the knuckles that you'll have from the 96 upgrade.

The main killer brake suppliers for SHOs are TCE and Baer. Baer makes two different kits (12" and 13") that bolt to the 95 knuckles, and Todd (TCE) has a lot of different stuff available depending on what you want to do. I think many of the TCE options bolt to the updated knuckles as well.

 

[Todd TCE]

Given all the banter here, I'll toss out this:

I can now offer the SHO Stopper kits in both .81 as well as 1.10 options (or larger but we'll no go there now) and do this in FSL and BSL6 applications. And the pedal feel will then be what some have missed with the former caliper offered on base kits.

Correctly stated however; what's you idea of 'best' and the budget you are considering?? I'm in the $1300-2000 range and if it's not your angle then we need more info.

BTW, all the web pages are being up dated daily on kits so if you don't see it all there now, don't panic.

 

[stuntstud2]

I was looking at Midwest SHO's 13in upgrade, and TCE's 13in upgrade. What is the difference, because there is obviously a huge difference in price. Is TCE's just that much better. Or are there some components that are different in each kit?

Todd when I say the best I mean the best. Which brakes will allow my car to stop the fastest and do it most often with shortest amount of down time, and still have a long life. That to me is the best.

 

[drivinhard]

"Which brakes will allow my car to stop the fastest and do it most often with shortest amount of down time, and still have a long life"

I dunno, but when you find some that stop that good and live a long life, let me know and I'll buy them to!

TCE's kit is going to be a fixed, multi piston billet or forged caliper using alum hats on the rotors. The PBR kit is a floating 2 piston caliper with a 1 piece iron/steel rotor. There's your price difference.

 

[Todd TCE]

13 x 1.10 with BSL6 calipers. Narrow body calipers only if need be for wheel clearance. Better be decent wheels, or you'll need the narrow ones. No slicers ever.

Ballpark price; $1800 with some rotor options.

Worth it? For track useers, yes. Daily driverrs, perhaps.

Difference? Fixed mount, multi piece set vs. a floater. Compare to B brand Alcon set ups not the PBRs.

Why so much? Knuckles, hubs, bearings, hats, rotors, calipers, pads, hoses, brackets etc etc. Lots-o-stuff.

Serious? Email me and I'll work you a year end deal. No specials after Christmas. (yea, I got gifts to buy too)

 

[shojuan]

Yamaha V6:
Honestly, I like the feel of the 96's with the lines over the feel of the Wilwoods

What calipers are you using?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

I can't speak for Todd's kit, but the PBR setup is used stock on a lot of cars (Cobra Mustang, C5, etc). As such, it is designed to stop the car quick while having a reasonable pad life.

Of course, pad life all depends on how you stop too.

 

[SHO Mojo]

All right all you brake-heads...

I enjoy the banter, but I'm still waiting for someone to put together a summary webpage of the various brake upgrade options for Gen I/II cars. I currently have the '96 setup with Carbotech "F" pads on my 1989, and it is great on the street under "spirited driving" conditions (I never get to open track my car).

Recently acquired 1991 still has stock brake sizes, and I'd like to upgrade to something bigger. PBR's sound tempting, especially for the money, but am I better off with a "better" caliper (wilwood, etc.) on the street? Also, is the added stopping power of the 13" PBR setup a good trade against an additional 0.7lb/wheel weight penalty?

Good dialog here...I always enjoy learning more about brakes.

 

[Shoaz]

For street use I can't see anyone "needing" anything better than the 96 upgrade. That doesn't stop a lot of people from putting 13" rotors with 6-piston aluminum calipers on street cars just because they like the idea of having those, or they like the looks.

Performance-wise on the street the stock brakes will work, so you can really decide for yourself what you want to do beyond that. Even with the stock brakes you can change brake behavior pretty substantially just by selecting different types of pad compounds, etc.

If you're waiting for someone to put up a web page for you, don't hold your breath. Between shotimes.com, here, tceperformance.com, baer.com, and MidwestSHO.com, you've got the references you need to get the relevant information.

 

[jedhead]

I found good info about brakes here:
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=188
and here:
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/survey/brakes1.html

Personally I am saving for a TCE upgrade along with 17" wheels for next year. I will pass down my 12.5" Baer/PBR's to by brother in law.

Bob

 

[Machspeed]

My stock rotors are warped...again. I dont use them too aggresively but i do a little spirited driving, most of the time the car is drivin like a an old women. I live in a HILLY place, so off ramps and stop signs on hills probably contribute. I think this time i might as well throw some 96 rotors and hawk pads with stainless braided lines on. ****

 

[Yamaha V6]

Just remember David - on the 91, you need to replace the knuckles (among other things) too. Only the 94/95 keep the existing knuckle for the 96 upgrade.