Before clutch install... rear main seal?

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Devin

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How do I change the rear main? I can't see anything to unbolt! Engine is on a stand and there is no clutch or flywheel installed.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Behind the seal plate.

0900823d800bf8cf.gif


Do you have a shoip manual?

This may help:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/0b/f8/cb/0900823d800bf8cb.jsp
 

Bank of SHO

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As I recall, you just put a couple of wood screws into the old rubber seal and pull it out with plyers. Then just gently tap in the new seal. No need to remove the carrier(?) gasket unless it is leaking too.

Verify this with others first.
 

kmetros

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I concur with the above. I didn't bother with the carrier gasket when I did my clutch job, since it wasn't leaking. Just pulled the rear seal and replaced it.
 

Shoaz

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Bank of SHO said:
As I recall, you just put a couple of wood screws into the old rubber seal and pull it out with plyers. Then just gently tap in the new seal. No need to remove the carrier(?) gasket unless it is leaking too.

Verify this with others first.

Yup. If you don't have a new gasket for the bearing carrier, don't remove the cover. Drill a small hole in the existing seal, which has a metal ring inside, but be careful not to drill past the metal ring. All you want to do is drill an adequate hole to get a screw (or two) into the old seal to pull it out.

The new one can be tapped in with an upside-down socket or something adequately flat so that you don't distort the seal.
 

TYSHO

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I used a small flat-head and put it in at an angle going away from the crank, that way it doesn't scuff it up. After I got it in, I wiggled it out and I think I had to do the same on the opposite side. Just don't scratch the crank with it. I did it this way only because drilling a hole for a screw is just as much, if not more, of a risk to damage the crank.
 

Mr Anonymous

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kmetros said:
I concur with the above. I didn't bother with the carrier gasket when I did my clutch job, since it wasn't leaking. Just pulled the rear seal and replaced it.
Kurt's exactly right about the carrier gasket. Honestly, you'll probably ***** the block or carrier gasket surfaces trying to scrape the old gasket clean, and THEN have a leak even with a new carrier gasket.

If the carrier gasket isn't leaking, leave it alone.

For the rear main, just use the drywall screw trick, and make it a quick, hard yank with the visegrips and it should come right out.
 

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