batteries and altinator upgrades?

[SHOZ123]

Amp output is not what you need to consider when wiring them up. Repeat three times and come to your senses.......

It is the input 12V fuse rating you need to consider.

Output is based on distortion level. If it's under .1% you have good equipment for car audio. If they don't even list it assume 10% crappo stuff.

 

[walser]

ive got 3 12 inch memphis m3s in my car, two memphis md1000 mono block amplifers pushing at least 1100rms a peice and a 600 rms mephis 4 channel for my speakers with component memphis speakers at all four corners and im running a 3.0 farad capacitor on 4ga. wire. on a stock alt. with a 3 peice SHOShop underdrive pulley kit and the lights dim but not bad, i dont even notice when im driving down the highway in the dark.

and a good way to figure out the rms wattage on any amplifier is to look at the fuses, say you have two 40A youve got around an 800 rms watt amp. just add the fuses up and add a zero and thats about what youve got for wattage.
and there is no way any volfenhag german concept is gonna come anywhere close, sorry

 

[Toul]

Amp output is not what you need to consider when wiring them up. Repeat three times and come to your senses.......

It is the input 12V fuse rating you need to consider.

Output is based on distortion level. If it's under .1% you have good equipment for car audio. If they don't even list it assume 10% crappo stuff.

Eh....ACTUALLY

If you have a 1000 wrms mono block amp, which is rated at 1000 wrms at 2ohm, it would only be putting out 500 wrms at 4ohm, and since input voltage is the same on both, your amp draw on the 4ohm load is half as much. So amp output is something you need to consider when wiring.

In order to determine the gauge of wire you need to run, and the proper fuse rating, you need to know the amp's amp draw.


w/v = a right?

Figure V at around 12.5 or so, and w being whatever the rated rms output at the ohm load you are wiring it to.



and damn walser, if you have that much running on a single 4awg thats kinda dingy. I mean I know the cap helps, but why not just upgrade to 2 or (I would anyway) 0awg? Seems to me if you have a cap and your still seeing dimming, your seeing some solid voltage drop, which increases distortion.

If it works it works I guess. Copper cable is expensive as ****.

 

[walser]

it is small wire for what im running, but i have it all set up to break the subs in, i have been breaking them in for about 5 months and ive decided i wont turn them up until i put them in my explorer this winter, but dont get me wrong with both amps a 1/2 power and the deck sub level at -5, it still f*****g pounds nicely

 

[SHOZ123]

You should always wire for the largest potential. Copper wire is cheap compared to a burnt up car or alternator.

 

[White94Atx]

would i see any kind of better ignition performance by upgrading to a 200amp alt. ?

 

[K-Dawg]

Nope.

 

[Toul]

x2 no you would not, and with a 200 amp alt you may have to readjust your idle to handle the increased load. You still never stated your budget.

 

[94MTX3.2Swap]

me ofcoure not cuz ive already got everything i need i just was woundering if it would help any but since all i got from you guys was haha nope i didnt bother putting anything else up

 

[tompumped]

me ofcoure not cuz ive already got everything i need i just was woundering if it would help any but since all i got from you guys was haha nope i didnt bother putting anything else up

I don't understand that whole post, but you should be happy in the end you will be saving money if you listen to these people. They appear to know a lot about the subject. I definitely wouldn't buy that head unit from ebay, it's no name crap.
I didn't know volfenhag was garbage, but i'm not surprised.
I always thought visonik was garbage, but my friend had subs that hit harder than anything i've heard.
If you are going to buy off brand. I had a pyle amp that I used for years and it worked good enough for me.

 

[94MTX3.2Swap]

ive had these subs and amp for a while and know they hit hard as **** so im staying with em and the head unit i bought for a reason so i have already spent all the money i was just woundering about the battery and that

 

[sperold]

Hey, the good news is - it looks like you don't have to do an upgrade to your alternator or battery arrangement. Since you already have the stuff, throw it all in, use the proper wire size for everything, and if necessary, run a ground right from the battery to ensure good circuitry. See how it goes. It might work out fine, and if it doesn't, at least you can demonstrate it to the next buyer.

 

[hawkeye18]

This thread makes me f***ing rofl. Why do you damn kids insist on believing you know more than people that have been doing this for 10 years? Jesus, why!?

 

[dmoo21]

yikes

spell check is built into many web browsers these days, look into that please

and for on topic purposes, everything that came stock in the SHO will work fine with that wicked setup.

 

[hawkeye18]

lmao @ wicked setup. You go brah! Make sure you tighten your license plate screws so you're only 9/10ths fail.

 

[K-Dawg]

If you loosen the nuts on the spoiler you can get a nice "aluminum cans in the trunk" sound.

 

[kikkinasphalt]

this thread made me cry.


*psssst my headlights dim on hard bass hits too lulz, but its cause im too lazy and its too cold for me to fix it right now*

 

[hawkeye18]

My headlights don't dim, and I have about 800wRMS going to my speakers. I do have 2 gauge wiring to the amps... and a 3 farad cap (it was $10 more than the 1 farad cap, why not?). Those take a while to charge up. My arm got tired holding the light bulb to it... but damned if it doesn't work. The voltage readout in the trunk is nice too.

 

[christiansho]

try upgrading your battery ground...... that makes a huge difference on the "light" flicker

i have a 1990 sho i modified the alternator brakets to fit a GM bigger basket 200 amp alternator.. makes a huge difference , i run 0 guage to the back and i am running to kinetics 1800 batteries in the back good for 3600 watts of power and one opitima red top in the front,also i am using a 200 amp (350 peak) solonoid/switch to issolate the batteries . i notice a slight light flicker under load but its so minor that to the ***** eye cant be noticed.

i am running 2 memphis 1500 D amps which pull about 130 amps each under full tilt and then 3 memphis 300X2 amps on the highs . i have 2 jl audio 12 w 7's in the car


if you have any questions about the sho.... im the guy to ask! i have done it all when it comes to the audio side!

take care

 

[SolidState]

I can't even sit in Christian's car with the stereo going 'full tilt'....