batteries and altinator upgrades?

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PraiseTheSHOGod
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Hi me again and ive been trying to look around but i havent reall y been able to find anything about upgradeing you batteries or altinators on a SHO to get more charge from them and hold it better cuz i plan on putting alot of things into my car electronics wise and was going to need an upgrade or i would keep killing the battery and prob the altinator too any info on this would help loads thank you :omgsho:
 

firebat45

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You already have the best SHO alt, you can get them rebuilt to higher specs though if you want. You can upgrade to an Optima battery, or if you really need to, relocated your battery to the trunk and possibly even run two in parallel. More than likely overkill though, it takes a lot of electronics to warrant all that.

I had 3 amps, 2 big subs, a high powered computer, touchscreen, head unit, and upgraded speakers all running off stock alt and crappy battery, never had a problem with either that was related to the electronics.
 
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94MTX3.2Swap

PraiseTheSHOGod
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ok ya cuz im going to be running an 2400watt amp with 2 subs an upgraded dvd/cd/gps head unit and didnt know if the regular altintor would work and if the battery would handle it
 

Toul

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Holy crap, use some punctuation please.


In any case, what is the exact amp you are using, and what resistance are you wiring it to?

One of the best upgrades you can do for your charging system is to upgrade your b+ to alt cable, and your b- to chassis cable to some 0 or 2ga cable. If you plan to have much of a system, this is going to help you more than a battery would.
 

94MTX3.2Swap

PraiseTheSHOGod
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ok well the amp i plan on useing is a Volfenhag ZX1790. The subs were going to be Volfenhag 12"(1200 watts each) and i was also going to be replacing the back 6/9s with Volfenhag 6/9s(800 watts each) and after a while put a small amp on those. i was still planing on switching out the cables for the battery for that fact they need it anyways. oh also if you were wanting to know the new deck i was giong to be putting in here is the link to it.( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370256740854&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT) but hopefully that sheds a little more light on what i was going to be doing and if you know of anything that might help some im open to all info.
 

SHOZ123

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Don't worry about the amp output rating. What is the power in fuse rating? That's what determines the wire size needed.
 

whiteman_01

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With all of that stuff being off brand, its not going to be putting out anywhere near the 2400 watts its rated at. You will be just fine with the stock batt and alt.
 

94MTX3.2Swap

PraiseTheSHOGod
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wow ok i call BS on that one ive definatly had it hooked up in my last car with only half the power going to it and it still made all the light dim when i used it. About the fuses my guess is your talking about the fuses on the back of the amp and it has two 40s
 

tompumped

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I don't know much about systems anymore, but I have to agree that it will probably not put anywhere near 2400 watts out. It's more than likely inflated.
That's a good way to judge power output, because it made your lights dim then it must put out 2400 watts. :rofl:

If I ever have another system, i'm going to buy an old rockford punch amp, they put out more than what they say.
 

K-Dawg

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wow ok i call BS on that one ive definatly had it hooked up in my last car with only half the power going to it and it still made all the light dim when i used it. About the fuses my guess is your talking about the fuses on the back of the amp and it has two 40s

Your lights were dimming because your wiring or electrical system sucked.

The two amps in my car each have two 25 amp fuses and probably make 400-500 watts each. I'm using the stock 93 alternator, stock battery, and 4 gauge wiring, and it works just dandy.
 

Toul

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What k-dawg said.

Additionally:

Volfenhag is a shit brand, flea market quality stuff. As bad, if not worse than audiobahn. It is going to be extremely inefficient and put out no where near rated output. I'm not even going to go into the fact that you cite a "MAX" rating :idiot:. ALL of the products you have listed are basement quality products. The amp, the subs, the...800watt max 6x9s :nuts: and the brandless HU...

I get it, you don't know what you're doing. You want to get loud, look flashy, and not spend money. Do yourself a favor, take the money you plan to spend on all of this, and put it towards either mechanical maintenance, or (judging by your ability to formulate sentences and paragraphs) school.

...sigh...

In an effort to make this post constructive...

If you've gotta have a system, let us know how much money you're working with, ditch your attachment to the flea-market trash, and we can guide you along the best route for your money. ;)
 
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firebat45

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That amp has two 40A fuses. Being generous, 13.6V x 80A = 1088W. That's absolute maximum, and that's with a safety margin built in. Actual RMS wattage would be more like 300-500 watts. I have no idea where they pulled 2400 from. That alone would steer me away from buying their stuff.

How much are you paying for the amp? Is it new? Go look at a quality amp and compare prices. Do you really think that the difference in price is purely the "brand name" and not a quality issue?

You are asking us about upgrading the battery and alt, that shows that you are trying to do this the right way. Don't buy crap. Spend your money on some quality equipment that will sound a lot better. Stereos should be about sound quality and not sound level, anyway.
 

SolidState

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****, a JL 500/5 can be had for well under $500 bones and is a solid platform to build on for someone who is cash strapped...

I have a JL 300/4 and 500/1 on a stock 90a 91 alternator. It is fine for the most part. The inefficiency of the system in my case was a poor chassis ground and the stock, well-worn alternator wiring.
 
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93rev2sev

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wow ok i call BS on that one ive definatly had it hooked up in my last car with only half the power going to it and it still made all the light dim when i used it. About the fuses my guess is your talking about the fuses on the back of the amp and it has two 40s

Don't drink the cool-aid. Manufacturers (especially off brand) have been lying about amplifier output since the beginning of time.

2 punch 200s from "back in the day" will make your 2400watt amp **** itself and short circuit.
 
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