Bank 2 intake Camshaft postion actuator

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joe raptor

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Hey brothers , I have a code P0020 and I don't know where is bank 2!!.Can any of you point me to the right direction ?, trying to fix the problem myself. Also I'm still have the warranty for 4 more years and since I installed the down pipes and a tune I'm afraid to lose all the warranty if I take it to the dealer !!. What should I do if I can't fix it myself ? , take it to dealer and down load the stock tune even though I don't have the cats ?. All suggestions are appreciate it . Thanks brothers !!
 

krewat

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Bank 1 is the side with cylinder #1 - which on a "normal" engine setup is the passenger side, so stand in front of the engine, with the belts facing you, and bank #2 is on the right.

How old is the car? My 2013 PP threw a "cam phase" code (forget exactly what it was) but once I changed the factory-oil, it went away for good.

In your case, though, it's the actuator itself, or maybe even the connection at the plug.
 

joe raptor

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My car is a 2014 and I changed the oil about two months ago , Mobil synthetic 5w30 but I add a additive (Bell X-TRA **** CONCENTRATE ). Do you think this have something to do ??. The check engine light has been on for two weeks now !!!!!!. Should I try to change the oil again ??.
 

krewat

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Not if it's a "circuit" error - my code was something to do with the cam was not phased the way the computer commanded it to.

In your case, it's the wiring/connector/actuator. And in rare cases, the PCM itself.
 

SHOdded

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Bank 2 is the one closest to you/the radiator, so easy. Try unplugging/replugging the wiring from the VCT solenoid, see if it makes a difference. Keep in mind that the solenoids work off of oil pressure and have screens that can get blocked, and so it is not really recommended to put additives in the oil without making sure there is no negative chemical interaction.

If plugging/unplugging the connector does not work, it would be worth it to change the oil, put ONLY oil in, no additives.
 

joe raptor

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Today I went to buy the oil and filter , I will change the oil to see if this will change anything. I'll keep you guys posted !!. Thanks for the help !!!!.
 

krewat

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Not to be a spoil-sport, but I doubt it will change anything. The "circuit" code is just that, the PCM doesn't see the right voltage/load on the circuit. If it was a "cam position" error, that could be oil-related as I said in my first post.
 

joe raptor

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I will unplug and plug the connector and see if does change , also I noticed that my fuel mileage is very low since I have this hiccup !!lol. the car is kind of sluggish >!!!
 

SHOdded

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If the car is unable to achieve variable timing like it is supposed to, it probably is defaulting back to a "safe" timing, thus affecting power and mpg. Wouldn't drive it around much without getting it fixed.
 

6500rpm

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What year is the car? If time permits I can pull the pin point tests for you, with the VIN, I can run an Oasis report and see if there's any related TSB/SSM's attached to it. As pointed out above, that particular dtc is circuit related. While more and more, it's becoming critical to use the correct viscosity oil, in this case it should have nothing to do with the fault code set. Best short answer was pointed out in terms of disconnecting and reconnecting the solenoid valve, clear the dtc and see if it resets. fwiw, it's not like you're ever going to put the factory parts back on for warranty sake, and unless you moved or did something to the harness to cause it to chafe, the dtc set has nothing to do with the mods you've performed. Might just want to call the dealership and ask...no need to give them your personal information, just give them a hypothetical question about the work you performed and the dtc that's set and see if they say anything about it not being covered. Some dealers are better than others about working with you. The only down side is customer pay is almost always more than factory pay which gives them an incentive not to cover it if possible.

EDIT-

VCT solenoid resistance is listed as 5-14 ohms pp test HK4 (replace if outside spec)*
Voltage to the solenoid should be greater than 10.5v*
Resistance on the control circuits of the PCM connector to the VCT connector should be 5 ohms or less.*
Resistance from the VCT circuits to ground with PCM connector disconnected should be greater than 10 K ohms (essentially OL or infinite)*
Verify the PCM and VCT terminals are intact (not pushed in) and if possible do a pin drag test (I cant stress enough that if you perform a pin drag that you don't accidentally spread the female terminal and induce an open)*
If the control circuits show no short to ground, voltage, or opens, the solenoid resistance is in spec, it faults the PCM as the last test*

I wish I had a way to send you a wiring diagram, but I don't. This was using my 2013 as a model. The green wire which should be common to all the solenoids is B+ (hint, if you only have one solenoid code it shouldn't be a short to ground concern on the power supply. Still possible to have an open or spread terminal. Key on, engine off you should have B+ available on this wire at the solenoid connector). The other wire is the control wire from the PCM that turns the solenoid on/off by commanding ground. With the PCM connector disconnected and circuit at the VCT checked to ground it should be OL.
 
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joe raptor

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Well I changed the oil & filter ,nothing change. Changed my tune back to stock and went to the dealer, they find out that a wire in the harness was broke. They keep the car for two days 'cause they didn't have the part, finally is fixed they flash the computer and everything is fine, driving home from the dealer the check engine is back up, went to Autozone the next day and the code is no cats. Went home and clear the code and try to down load the racing tune and my programmer (X4) said that there's an error, try many times to do it and nothing. WHY IS IT THAT I CAN'T DOWN LOAD MY RACING TUNE BACK ???. Do I'll need a new tune because they flash the computer?. Any suggestions or ideas ??. Thanks brothers !
 

sholxgt

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The dealer likely did a reflash and your strategy code has changed. You will need to use your programmer to pull the strategy code and provide it to your tuner.

This isn't a big deal. You and car will be fine. Very common.

Side note...no need for trips to Autozone for pulling codes either. Your programmer can pull the codes and reset.
 

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