Bad battery terminals?

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95SHOgirl

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Yesterday I'm driving my 95 MTX and had no problems. Arrived at our destination and shut the car off. Came out from the store and had no power. Nothing. No lights, no radio, no power whatsoever. Of course the car would not start.

I began to think, another major electrical problem. I just put down $3000 to fix an electrical problem on this car.

Anyways, tow guy comes and tries to give me a jump. Nothing again. Still would not charge. The moment he began to move the connectors on the battery terminal, a spark and the power came back on. I was able to start the car and off we went.

I then noticed that my headlight (real HID's) would flash off and on when I turn on my turn signals. It was dark so I could notice this. Thus, my thoughts were that my HID's were causing a major drain on the battery (Red top-brand new 3 months old).

I then took the car on the highway afraid to turn the car off. I could feel the car sputtering as if it wanted to shut off. The HID's would flash off and on when I turned on the turn signals to switch lanes.

The moment I got home and shut the car off. No power. Nothing. Nada. I thought I would let it sit for the night and come back out in the morning to see if it corrected itself. Still Nothing, Nada.

Disconnected the positive battery terminal connector and re-connected it and now I have power again. That is until I went to start it up and now no power at all.

Bad battery terminal or major electrical problem? Tow truck guy says it the battery terminal connector and they need to be replaced because it's preventing power flow. The terminal connectors are look brand new. In fact the positive terminal connector is brand new so says the shop that did my electrical work.


Please help.
 

ManySHOs

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It sounds like you have a bad battery cable/clamp.

About your HID's-are you running a headlight harness with them or are you running the ballasts off of the stock factory wiring? (not good!)

Ian
 

ManySHOs

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Just to add to this, you may also have a bad multifunction stalk (turn signal/high beam thing). Are you in a 'burb of Philly or in the city?

Ian
 

95SHOgirl

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I'm in Philly and I'm running my HID on stock wires. The stalk was just replaced along with other parts in the panel while they were searching for the electrical short.
 

ManySHOs

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There is a big risk of melting your headlight switch and other wiring with the HID ballasts running off of the stock wiring. Go to www.suvlights.com and pick up a 9007 headlight harness for peace of mind.

Meanwhile, I am suspect of the recent work done. What was the diagnosis? What did they replace and why? I think it's possible that the MFS is still bad. The HID stuff worries me as well.

I wonder if you have a bad connection at you starter. Your battery is mounted in the engine bay, right? If the battery clamps look fine, I'd start to think about the starter. If you can get the car to an AutoZone, they should be able to load test your electrical system (starter, alternator, battery) for free. That should help pinpoint where your issue(s) might be. If it's a bad cable, AZ sells nice 2 gauge battery cables that you could use.

Ian
 

SHOZ123

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Actually the HIDs usually use less power than the OEM type bulbs.

I would suspect a bad battery cable or connection.
 

ManySHOs

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SHOZ123 said:
Actually the HIDs usually use less power than the OEM type bulbs.

I would suspect a bad battery cable or connection.

During normal operation this might be true. However, a ballast has a very heavy draw (~40a each IIRC) upon startup when they send 23K volts to the xenon capsules. Many people have burnt up their wiring harnesses or blown fuses by running HID's on stock wiring.

I'm sure there's more on www.hidplanet.com to explain this but I'm getting ready for work and don't have time to poke around too much. Herman's FAQ def. talked about this. A quick google search revealed this:

http://www.nissanforums.com/cosmetic-mods/88167-hid-newbie-crash-course.html

bottom of the second post touches on it a little bit.

EDIT: Here's Herman's FAQ...

http://faqlight.carpassion.info/


Ian
 
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SHOZ123

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When I had mine installed the steady state amp draw was around 6 amps for both headlights.

There was an initial ~100V pulse but sure did not see anything near 23KV.

Could be that new ballast are a lot more efficient than that of the others cited?
 

Redskull

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Take a voltage reading of the battery terminals in all key positions, and they should all be pretty much the same. Then move from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid connection (wherever the power branches off to the rest of the car, differen't between years and MTX/ATX's), and take the voltages again. You might want to unplug the HID's just for precautions sake, and get the battery tested. If you feel like driving out to the 'burbs, i can offer a hand.

PS - what sort of electrical work costs $3000?!
 

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