ATX Questions

[Grantorinslo]

As it currently stands there is one less green plus one the road, however I finally found myself a 93 ATX donor car for my 91 at a decent price, but here's the problem it won't shift into second, so I guess I have some questions. Long story short it's 150 miles from my house and I'd like to not shell out the $$$ for a tow. So here are my questions:

1) I can guess it's a shift solenoid, so should I just buy/try one?
2) could there be other related tranny problems? (not fluid its new)
3) Assuming no fix I try works can I get away with driving this beast 150+ miles, or even try to get it within 100 miles and use somebodys AAA

Related questions to #1: Where is it located, what vehicles interchange if any, and if I should try to grab more than one (pick n pull) or is this something that should always be bought new

And finally, for the swap can I use the 3.0 engine harness on the 3.2? (assuming I use 3.o accessories or whatever else is needed)

 

[sperold]

Sign up for AAA yourself and get it half way home, and take a friend / relative with you with AAA and get the other half covered. With AAA it is the driver who is insured, not the car, so anyone in the car can make the call.
This costs you a membership, but it is better than just paying for a tow call.
You can rent a dolly at U-Haul (about $35.00, no mileage) and get it that way as well if you know someone with a hitch.

 

[lowc]

And finally, for the swap can I use the 3.0 engine harness on the 3.2? (assuming I use 3.o accessories or whatever else is needed)

why would you want to do that? thier are some differences in wire locations in the main connectors between the two harneses

 

[rubydist]

As it currently stands there is one less green plus one the road, however I finally found myself a 93 ATX donor car for my 91 at a decent price, but here's the problem it won't shift into second, so I guess I have some questions. Long story short it's 150 miles from my house and I'd like to not shell out the $$$ for a tow. So here are my questions:

1) I can guess it's a shift solenoid, so should I just buy/try one?

the 93 atx is known to have piston failures, which imho is much more likely than the shift solenoid, and that is a "disassemble the whole transmission" issue, not just a "remove the side cover" issue. I would test the trans first before installing the solenoid.

2) could there be other related tranny problems? (not fluid its new)

yes.

3) Assuming no fix I try works can I get away with driving this beast 150+ miles, or even try to get it within 100 miles and use somebodys AAA

use the AAA option.

Related questions to #1: Where is it located, what vehicles interchange if any, and if I should try to grab more than one (pick n pull) or is this something that should always be bought new

the shift solenoids are subject to failure with time, so I would always buy new - they are not that expensive. and, if you have the trans rebuilt, make sure the shop replaces all of those solenoids.

And finally, for the swap can I use the 3.0 engine harness on the 3.2? (assuming I use 3.o accessories or whatever else is needed)

yes. if you are planning to put the 3.2 into your plus, you:
1. pull off all the 3.2 wiring and 3.2 accessories, and install all the 3.0 stuff.
or
2. pull off all the 3.2 wiring and make custom motor mounts for the 3.2 so you can use the single belt accessories, then install the 3.0 wiring on the 3.2

do a search, I have a thread on the custom motor mounts and single belt drive, others have threads on the swap as well.

 

[Grantorinslo]

I am probably going to do the 3.0 accessories/belts. Correct me, but I believe you need the 3.0 heads for this? 3.2 missing a bracket/hole

In an older car if you put the automatics in "2" it stays in second, so couldn't I just drive it in "2" or does it enable first on this transmission? Or would that not work regardless if its the solenoid or piston

So I shouldn't even waste the time on buying a shift solenoid on the chance that it works? Thinking of signing up for AAA Platinum gives you one 200 mile tow/100 mile anytime, an extra free service per year (4 total?), and up to 5 gallons free gas (vs. 2)

Lastly, should I have put this in general chat? oops
EDIT: Filter totally failed me I found 99% of what I needed to know as far as the swap, I knew what I was looking for but I didn't realize I was only looking at the last 30 days.

 

[lowc]

you dont . all you have to do is cut a little into the head to make room for the alt . here is all that needs to be done

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/4/566/1729/38913364021_large.jpg


i didnt bother trying to drill and tapp new holes for the bracket i dont use it when pulling the motor so it didnt matter to me

 

[rubydist]

placing the shifter in '2' does only engage 2nd gear, but this will fail if either the shift solenoid or piston are bad.

 

[whiteguy3]

^ Correct.

I suggest renting a 2 wheel dolly as stated. It's the easiest way if you have something to tow with.

I would not try and replace a selonoid, it's a long shot in the dark. Also, the 93's and some 94's got the inferior aluminum forward clutch piston. If that fails the car will not engage in any gear, just FYI.

 

[RAYJAY]

had this saved hope it helps

Jeff

3.0 to 3.2



- 3.2 block with new 3.2 head gaskets
- used the heads/cams/exhaust manifold (en bloc) off a 3.0
- 3.0 oil pan
- 3.0 coolant crossover tube/passages
- 3.2 fuel rail/injectors
- alternator, alt bracket, ps pump bracket, motor mounts, water pump, PS pump, timing belt covers, pulleys, timing belt tensioner, timing belt, accessory belt tensioners all came off the 3.0
- used the 3.0 section of the wireharness that goes between the heads where the fuel rail is (basically the entire wireharness is 3.0)
- 3.0 intake/TB/MAF
- left the 3.2 oil pump in place since it supposedly has better flow
- there's a metal pin that the 3.0 timing belt tensioner spring hooks onto that you have to remove from the 3.0 block and put onto the 3.2 block
- don't forget to re-check your valve shim clearances (basically an upper 60k)
- put in new rod bearings
- replaced the front and rear main seals
- you will need a tweecer or chip to tell the EEC your displacement is now 3.2L (195 cid)
- if you use the 3.0 timing belt covers, it leaves a hole at the base near the crank pulley; not a big deal, but I covered it with sheet metal.

Basically that's what it in a nutshell. Did I miss anything?

There are other ways of doing it (i.e. 3.2 block + 3.2 heads + 3.0 cams.. see this link at shotimes.com), etc. It was a good amount of work but totally worth it. Amazing the difference.

 

[RAYJAY]

3.0 to 3.2 swap word doc that i saved with pictures .....


http://www.speedfreaksgarage.com/jeff/32. from 3.0.doc

 

[rubydist]

RAYJAY, that is pretty much the most difficult way to put a 3.2 into a mtx car.

you do not need to swap heads
you do not need a 3.0 pan
you do not need a tweecer or chip to tell it that it has a 3.2

other than that, you pretty much got it (if you want to keep the 3.0 accessory drives)

otoh, if you want the single belt accessory drive, all you need to do is fab a new front motor mount and swap the 3.0 wiring onto the 3.2.

 

[RAYJAY]

RAYJAY, that is pretty much the most difficult way to put a 3.2 into a mtx car.

you do not need to swap heads
you do not need a 3.0 pan
you do not need a tweecer or chip to tell it that it has a 3.2

other than that, you pretty much got it (if you want to keep the 3.0 accessory drives)

otoh, if you want the single belt accessory drive, all you need to do is fab a new front motor mount and swap the 3.0 wiring onto the 3.2.

read the word doc i posted the link to

that post was from years ago from sho time i just posted both so every one has them

 

[danebish40]

Just bought a 1991 Sho

I have a issue with the atx, It will drive and get to speeds of 15 - 20 miles per hour and then is starts slipping. i need help trying to find out what is really wrong. If any one can help here is my number 936-933-5879