Anybody have any ideas?

[NetNinja]

The suspension replacement has begun and already it's kicking my ***.

Does anybody have any idea on how to remove the nut from the rear strut?

A crows foot does not work it's too freaking tight in there. Looks like some sort of special tool?

I can fit a deep well socket in there but I can't hold the strut rod to prevent it from spinning.

I wasn't able to get one of the banjo bolts off so Now I need a new rear hub assembly?

I guess I also need a new antilock brake sensor, I guess there is one bolt that holds it on but I can't seem to remove it. The Helms manual is no help.

 

[projectSHO89]

Are you throwing away or keeping the old strut?

If throwing it away, use a very large pair of Vice-Grips on the strut shaft since you don't have to worry about the damage it will cause.

What size socket fits the nut?

Steve

 

[NetNinja]

Into the Trash

I am actually throwing it into the trash.

So I guess there is no point in trying to remove the mounting cup.
Since I am getting new cup.

You can fit a socket( Deep Well) in there but there is no way you can hold the strut shaft still. I think it's a 17mm.

You can use a regular 17mm socket but that's totally useless because you can't fit the ratchet on it.

 

[pjtoledo]

There are 3 methods to get that nut off. First is the good'ol impact wrench. Several SHORT bursts should work, don't even have to hold the shaft. Method 2 is almost as simple. Get a hi offset box end wrench, either 21 or 22mm, can't remember which, maybe even a 13/16" will do. You may have to carve some of the lead away for a good fit. This allows a wrench on both the nut and the strut rod. Method 3 involves a 1/2" drive 13/16" sparkplug socket,,with a hex exterior at the socket end. Place a 10mm 3/8" drive socket on the rod end, place the spark plug socket over that, slide a 3/8" extension thru the 1/2" socket hole and into the 10mm socket. Hold the sparkplug socket with a wrench, and whatever works on the extension. Don't forget to pull the foam rubber out of the spark plug socket.

Perry

 

[Jim Merriman]

One thing that wasn't mentioned here is that you have to be really careful with the springs! I usually use a wall mounted spring compressor to slightly compress the springs and take the tension off of the mounting caps (I call them top hats-BTW). Then I use a regular impact gun to take off the nut with a 6" to 1 foot socket extender.

The other way to do this is to use a portable spring tensioner. In that case, the devise uses a sissors like device and as you wind it in - it pulls the springs together from the ends, and takes the tension off of the mounting plate and the strut. To not use a spring compressor, is asking for big trouble in my humble opinion....... Be careful, they can rip your arm off!

 

[DHMag]

i have a wrench that will fit down in there. the advice about visegrips -> it works, but youll find they will slide along the smooth shaft. if you are replacing the strut, use a 32ox ball pein hammer and beat up (wail on it !) on the shaft to give the visegrips something to grip to.

 

[NetNinja]

Thanks dudes.

Thanks for all the advise.

I now have another problem. Since the strut was such a PITA to get out I had to remove the whole assembly.

Does anybody have a part # for the bushings that go into the stamped steel control arms? I had to cut out the rear wheel spindle inorder to pull the struts.
This in turn destroyed the bushings because I had to drill out the rubber to get the remaning bolt out.

Yeah I used a hack saw to cut through the bolts on the right rear.

The left one allowed me to remove one bolt and the second one had to be persuaded.

I will have to bring the spindle to a machine shop and see if they can punch or drill out the remaining bolt. They were frozen solid to the spindles.
This is a Georgia car, I can imagine what a northern car would be like.

I will post pictures latter.