Another Wheel Question..Is This Normal? (Video Included)

[JRA2000TL]

Still trying to find my "card in spokes noise"; tested out my new craftsman jack tonight. I noticed 1" play back and forth at the 3 and 9 position on the pass front wheel. I took a previous video with the wheel off. It's not a great video. Just wondering if this is normal play or if I'm just bumping the caliper against the rotor? I will go check the driver side.

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EDIT: Driver side wheel does NOT do this! I think I found the source of my "card in spokes" noise coming from the pass. wheel area. What is it? LCA/ball joint?

 

[kikkinasphalt]

holy crap!!!!!

 

[jmpSHO]

It's hard to say what the play or the noise is from but in no way is that normal and it is definately a safety issue, I wouldn't drive it. I don't understand why you can't see where the play is coming from. It's either an inner or outer tie rod or wheel bearing.

 

[kikkinasphalt]

It's hard to say what the play or the noise is from but in no way is that normal and it is definately a safety issue, I wouldn't drive it. I don't understand why you can't see where the play is coming from. It's either an inner or outer tie rod or wheel bearing.

id vote on inner

 

[JRA2000TL]

I replaced the outers about a year ago. Inner are more of a PITA from what I hear. Just trying to narrow it down before I throw parts at it since I don't have alot of $ these days; at least until spring.

 

[LJRuddy]

id vote on inner

And while you are at it, replace the outters as well seeing that you have to take those off to replace the inners anyway. Its a 15 minute job per wheel. :wave:

 

[jmpSHO]

If the outers are new then most likely it is an inner tie rod and they are almost as easy as the outers.

 

[St Louis SHO]

grab it at 12 and 6 and see if it moves, it might be a wheel bearing.

 

[kikkinasphalt]

grab it at 12 and 6 and see if it moves, it might be a wheel bearing.

a gen 3 subframe will fix all his problems lol

 

[Brett]

i was thinking wheel bearing as well.

 

[Shoaz]

grab it at 12 and 6 and see if it moves, it might be a wheel bearing.

x2 on that.

I just replaced both inners, which was a breeze with the rental tool from Checker (which I've decided to keep).

If you have play at 3 and 9, and none at 12 and 6, then check the strut, LCA and mount, strut rod bushings, etc. If all of that is okay it's probably the inner tie rod if the outer is okay.

 

[St Louis SHO]

You know what. Take it to any local shop. They will usually do a saftey check for free... It's more simple than posting a video that we cannot see, and trying to interpret what you think is wrong.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Thanks everyone. Really I'd like to just throw lots of $ at the car and replace the whole suspension all the way around, but that's not possible right now. I will check the 12 and 6. I don't think it moved there though. I want to say I checked that last time. I wish I'd done the inner tie rods when I replaced the outers. That may just be one of several suspension issues I have.

 

[Bob Gervais]

grab it at 12 and 6 and see if it moves, it might be a wheel bearing.

^This.

It's hard to tell from the video, but when you check it, watch to see if it appears that the wheel is moving separately from the caliper. Sure sign of a bad wheel bearing.

And as James said above, most shops will do a free safety check. Normally I'd say keep posting up and we'll help you get through it, but with safety junk like this sometimes it's better left to a pro. The only thing I'd add to this: If this is a second car for you, and you don't HAVE to drive it, keep diagnosing yourself. It seems like you want to learn to repair the car yourself, which is a great feeling of accomplishment! You learn by doing is my point here. If you have the time to learn and don't need to drive the car, by all means let us help ya learn.

 

[tardboy21]

agree with bob, see if the caliper and knuckle move with the tire. If they do, than its your inner tie rod. Easier yet, you could pop the tire off. Try to wobble the wheel hub itself to check the bearing, then try to turn the knuckle left and right to check the tie rod. If they both wobble.... well, you get the idea.

 

[93rev2sev]

Remove wheel and bolt a couple of larger box end wrenches to the wheel studs. Now, grab each one and see where the slop is.

I'm betting severely trashed wheel bearing....that's the only way for the caliper and pads to move independantly from the rotor. That's clicking you hear.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Remove wheel and bolt a couple of larger box end wrenches to the wheel studs. Now, grab each one and see where the slop is.

I'm betting severely trashed wheel bearing....that's the only way for the caliper and pads to move independantly from the rotor. That's clicking you hear.

That's what I'm afraid of. I had someone help me with with the outer TRE replacement because I was "too easy" on the car thinking I'd damage it by hammering on the hub to get the outers out. I wasn't hammering hard enough and couldn't get them out, so he helped me. The inners didn't appear to be too bad. I didn't notice any play in them. I can tell you that when it starts making that noise, if I rapidly **** the wheel back and forth it quits. It's definitely coming from that side though.

I will see if I can pull the wheel off tonight or within the next few days and try those tests. IIRC when the PO did the 96 brake upgrade on it, he would have had to replace the knuckes with 94-95 ones, which means they may have come with the hub already....and he got them from a j/y, so they weren't new. It wouldn't surprise me if it was a trashed bearing.

I have put 4k on the car in 2 years, so no it's not driven much at all. I will check it and post back if I have any additional questions.

 

[the4biddendonut]

I think it looks like the caliper is moving with the wheel from the video.

 

[TimboSHO]

Whenever I check front end parts at the shop, it's best to have someone wiggling the wheel from the outside, and someone on the inside that can look and see where the play is. Have your mechanic buddy that helped you with the outer tie rod ends over and have him look for the play while you wiggle the wheel. Usually the ball joint doesn't cause back and forth movement, but if it's bad enough, it could. Check lugnut and axle nut tightness first also. The 93 I got didn't have an axle nut on it while it was rolled around for awhile with a bad trans and it completely destroyed the wheel bearing. Your options for that play are: inner and outer tie rod end, hub bearing, and possibly ball joint. Also, as others have said, try wiggling from 12 and 6 to see if you have any play in that direction as well. Good luck!

 

[89 black SHO mtx]

Looking at your other videos I can see the inner tie rod moving in one of them. B4 you replace it have your friend come over and move the wheel while you look in that area. You can pull the boot off of the rack and see it there. As far as clamping it back I've used plastic wire ties that work really well and easy to do to