All 4 wheel bearing replacement ?

[iselltonsofthings]

I want to replace all four wheel bearings.

I called Advance Auto Parts and they are listing a wheel bearing or hub assembly with bearing for the front.

I understand that if a front wheel bearing seizes up to where it causes damage to the hub, that is why they sell the hub assy with bearing. I think I should be fine with just buying a bearing cause there is no grinding or wobble.

As for the rear bearing, they only sell the hub assembly with bearing.

Does anyone know why you need a whole assembly?

I do not have the rear knuckles removed from the car so I can't see. That is why I'm posting the question.

Is this an error in their computer system. Can I buy just the bearing, like I'm doing for the front, or do I need the whole assembly for the rear like what they are telling me.

Thanks. Scott

 

[DigDeez]

When and if you get the parts, check out midwestsho.com. They sell the front bearing separately.

DigDeez

 

[projectSHO89]

Go directly to www.timken.com > Automotive > Aftermarket > Timken info > Search by vehicle.

You can then look up exact replacement parts for your specific car. The do not p[rovide any pricing and sales info as all of this is provided by the retailers who carry their products.

Front bearings are available separately from the hubs, however, if the current bearing has failed, replacing the hub also is recommended.

Rear bearings for the 93 are a sealed unit. You will have to investigate their replacement as I have not experienced them yet on a 93 and up.

Steve

 

[autobahnsho]

Autozone sells Timken and has them available with OR without hub, I think.

EDIT:
No they don't. They have the front with or without, but list the rear as WITH ONLY. Weird.
ps- I was looking at a 91 w/ ABS.

<small>[ January 24, 2004, 01:34 PM: Message edited by: autobahnsho ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

iselltonsofthings,

As the bearing wears is becomes loose and allows the hub to wobble. Add to the the heat factor and the hub can become distorted.

By the time you notice a bearing that is dry and growling the damage is done. You can check the hub with a micrometer and a machinest straight edge to make sure it is straitght and perfectly round. But for a few dollars why bother.

If you press a distorted hub into a new bearing you will destroy the bearing in a very short time. Do your self a favor and buy hub and bearing assemblies.

Proper torque on the front axels are critical to setting the preload on the front bearing. If you do not do this the bearing will eat itsef up in a VERY short time. 180 to 200 ft lbs is the acceptable range.
rangerj

 

[pjtoledo]

Be sure to get the correct year for the rears. 89s have 2 seperate taper bearings. 90 thru 92 have the one-piece sealed bearing and hub assembly. Then 93 and up have a different hub but the same sealed bearing. You cannot mix and match parts for the vented and solid rear disks. The hubs look similar but are about 3mm different in thickness. The wrong hub will cause the rotor to hit the caliper bracket. The rears 90 and up also have big time torque on that axle nut.

Perry

 

[iselltonsofthings]

thanks for the information.

There are no worn/sloppy bearings on the car. I'm just looking to replace the bearings because the car is nearing 100,000 and I think it is good preventative measure.


I do not see the reason at this moment to go with the whole hub assy. So I picked up just the wheel bearings for the front, and hopefully tomorrow my rears with hub assy will arrive so I can pick them up too.

It sucks that the rear is only sold as a hub assy. It is an extra $40+ to spend. squint

Oh well, I love my sho and to me, it is money well spent. thumb