There is a difference when talking about a street car and a race car. If you've got a race car that runs on a track with both left and right turns, the setup should be more square. If it's a street car, the setup is designed for predictability and drivability.
Alignments are much much more than putting it on a machine and making the numbers green.
Here are my recommendations for a street car setup on an SHO:
..........................Left......................Right
Camber...............-1.5*.....................-1.8*
Caster................+4.0*.....................+4.3*
Toe In...............-0.06*....................-0.06*
Camber...............-1.7*.....................-1.7*
Toe In...............+0.12*...................+0.12*
This spec has a couple of tenths of camber and caster split to the right to allow the car to lead up the crown in the road and travel in a straight line while on a crowned road. It also makes the assumption the tie rod ends are new and nice and tight. As the suspension parts wear, the Front Toe In numbers should be more negative. Under dynamic suspension loads, the suspension parts flex with power and braking. As you apply power, the front wheels are pulled straight. Under braking they are pushed and loaded backwards. These alignment specs can be modified to allow for normal wear and tear. Plus, the more camber you have in the rear, the more Toe In you need. In the front, the more camber you have, the less Toe Out you need.
To set up a race car, we get paid to corner weight and understand the type of racing environment the car will be running. But for a road coarse, the car is much more square.
