Alignment numbers. Are these OK

[1993BlackSHO]

Here are my numbers from the alignment shop. He told me this is the best he could get it and they seem pretty even from left to right so I think I aligned my subframe properly, but I will let the experts say.

_________Left____Right_______Range
Front
Camber__-1.4_____-1.2______-1.1__0.1
Caster____4.8______4.7______2.8__4.8
Toe_____-0.1_____-0.1______-.23__.15

Rear
Camber__-2.1_____-1.6______-1.6__-0.2
Toe_____-0.09_____0.03_____-.07__.19

As you can see it is still out a little. Anything I can do for this? Should I worry?

 

[Shoaz]

Which part are you worried about? The front looks fine to me, and is actually pretty nice for a sporty street alignment.

The only thing funky that I see is that the rear isn't balanced very well. A set of the Ingalls rear control arms from SHObros would fix that easily, though. The stock pieces are very limited in the amount of adjustment that can be made, and toe and camber do not adjust independently. With aftermarket arms (Ingalls, GM arms, BMR arms, whatever) you can adjust rear camber and toe pretty precisely (and pretty easily).

But what you have isn't awful, either. If it's a street car and you're worried about it, keep an eye on the tread wear on the rear tires. If it's apparent that the wear is excessively uneven, then the aftermarket arms can fix it. If not, and it isn't bothering you, there's not really any need to worry about it.

 

[1993BlackSHO]

Great. Thanks Shoaz. They were just a little outside of the preferred range is all and I wasnt sure how much it takes for it to be a problem. I may do the rear arms when I get some extra cash. I plan on lowering it and I know the rear arms are a big help after it gets lowered.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

If those #'s are with a stock suspension then I would have reason to worry. -2.1 camber on stock height is pretty excessive to me, along with your high -camber readings in the front. If that's all your tech could adjust the plates out to in the front then your springs are sagging or something is messed up. The front toe is good (I'd sure hope it'd be adjustable to normal specs!), and your caster will give you a nice quick turn in. The rear toe is also screwy as all ****, but like it was said above, the rear has extremely limited adjustment. You literally have one eccentric per side to handle both camber and toe changes and it's **** poor.

 

[JEM]

If those #'s are with a stock suspension then I would have reason to worry. -2.1 camber on stock height is pretty excessive to me, along with your high -camber readings in the front.

The front -camber numbers are good, they're about what you need in a pig-nose-heavy FWD car.

The rear has more -camber than I'd like back there and the toe mismatch is going to cause the car to mistrack slightly, seems like you need adjustable rear arms.

 

[fricker66]

I have comparable numbers from my alignment done just yesterday. Rear camber is still outside of recommended specs. My tires are at the end of their life so I may consider adj rear arms as a fix depending on how much $ I throw towards a new set of tires.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

It depends on how the vehicle is used. If this is a daily driver (DD), the numbers are outside of tolerances and I would *NOT* consider them acceptable. Even with frequent tire rotation, you'll greatly reduce the life of most tires, especially directional tires that can only be rotated front to back.

Also, make sure you look at the cross-camber, cross-caster specs, and cross-toe. The latter may be referred to as total-toe. These are specs comparing the balance between left-versus-right, that can result in pulling during acceleration, braking, or during vertical suspension travel (eg. driving through a large dip in the road where the front of the car moves up-and-down).

For a daily driver, you want mid-range camber and caster specs, toe near zero, and thrust angle 0.0 degrees.

For a daily driver you occasionally track, the mid- to outer-range (negative) camber specs will provide the best compromise between street-wear and track-wear, depending on how agressively the SHO is driven.

For a daily driver you frequently track, the outer-range (negative) camber specs will provide the best compromise between street-wear and track-wear.

For a SHO that primarily a track car, you will want to run camber specs beyond factory specs, between -1.5 to-3.0 negative camber, depending on the suspension setup.
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Which part are you worried about? The front looks fine to me, and is actually pretty nice for a sporty street alignment.

The only thing funky that I see is that the rear isn't balanced very well. A set of the Ingalls rear control arms from SHObros would fix that easily, though. The stock pieces are very limited in the amount of adjustment that can be made, and toe and camber do not adjust independently. With aftermarket arms (Ingalls, GM arms, BMR arms, whatever) you can adjust rear camber and toe pretty precisely (and pretty easily).

But what you have isn't awful, either. If it's a street car and you're worried about it, keep an eye on the tread wear on the rear tires. If it's apparent that the wear is excessively uneven, then the aftermarket arms can fix it. If not, and it isn't bothering you, there's not really any need to worry about it.

 

[DemonNeno]

I always set my front toe about +0.05 on each side (total toe of +0.10"). this way, when the nose comes up, it'll be closer to zero toe then 1/4" negative toe.

 

[SHO Dude]

Here are my numbers from the alignment shop. He told me this is the best he could get it and they seem pretty even from left to right so I think I aligned my subframe properly, but I will let the experts say.

_________Left____Right_______Range
Front
Camber__-1.4_____-1.2______-1.1__0.1
Caster____4.8______4.7______2.8__4.8
Toe_____-0.1_____-0.1______-.23__.15

Rear
Camber__-2.1_____-1.6______-1.6__-0.2
Toe_____-0.09_____0.03_____-.07__.19

As you can see it is still out a little. Anything I can do for this? Should I worry?

It proll'y pulls right and runs down the road crown.

You need to rack the subframe around a little. The subframe needs to be shoved to the passengers' side and twisted counter clockwise (when viewed from the top and from the drivers' seat).

These specs are almost exactly backwards with respect to front camber and caster. You should have a .1-.2* split positive to the left (more negative on the right than on the left). Also, your caster should be split to the right (more positive to the right side). Toe is fine where it is if the front end parts are old. With new front end parts, I run the tow a little closer to zero (0.06*)

The rear is whacked too. The more negative camber you have in the rear, the more positive toe you'll need. This really helps in the braking department. It keeps the back end of the car in line with the front (I'm from Florida, so the whole snow thing just doesn't work for me).

And yes, our Original Aluminum Control Arms will fix the rear, but you'll need to do a little work in the front.