Advice on 2010 front strut replacement

[shaker281]

I am planning ahead to replace my front struts (110,000 miles currently).
From past experience on other vehicles I know that usually spring compressors do not create enough ro0m to get the strut free. Plus, I am going to use Monroe quick struts.

Anyone know the most essential components that require removal to make this as efficient as possible?
I am thinking:

1. Remove axle nut (to avoid pulling the half-shaft free of transaxle).
2. Disconnect stabilizer link (to allow additional control arm/spindle movement movement).
3. If necessary, remove the tie rod end from the spindle (to allow increased spindle movement).
4. Use floor jack below spindle/brake assembly to avoid undue pressure on the brake hoses, ABS wires.
5. Note strut mount orientation on remove/install to maintain correct factory camber.

My questions, to anyone who may have performed the procedure are: Do I actually need to remove the tie rod end? And is there anything else I am missing?

Of course , if someone were to upload the FOMOCO WS manual PDFs with torque specs and procedure, I would be grateful.

TIA guys.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

I definitely would recommend the Quick Strut assembly especially if doing yourself. The added safety margin of not compressing the coil springs and the easy remove and replace instead of removing, disassembly and replacing at least in my opinion plus the reduced labor cost of disassembly outweigh the added initial cost. Even if price is the same still easier and safer.

If you decide to DYI then I definitely recommend keeping both wheels off ground until completion. I lowered one wheel and wound up tearing the dust boot of the one that was on the ground. The dust boot has some flexibility but not infinite. Different vehicle but same concept and same warning to avoid my mistake.

 

[shaker281]

...

If you decide to DYI then I definitely recommend keeping both wheels off ground until completion. I lowered one wheel and wound up tearing the dust boot of the one that was on the ground. The dust boot has some flexibility but not infinite. Different vehicle but same concept and same warning to avoid my mistake.

That is some handy advice right there, thanks!

 

[SHOdded]

monroe is unlikely to last as long as MC. Might want to have a local shop remove and install the springs for you.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Google SENSEN. I haven't replaced front yet but they were the vendor for my 2008 Volvo and the rear struts for my 2014 SHO. OEM Vendor at least for those two miles. I have had good luck with Bilstein's but can't seem to find a quick strut assembly for the Taurus.

 

[shaker281]

monroe is unlikely to last as long as MC. Might want to have a local shop remove and install the springs for you.

Thanks. This I have heard. I can borrow spring compressors from O'Reilly and I have done them before, so not too worried about that. But as far as longevity goes, with 110,000 miles I doubt I'll have the car long enough to care. If they last even half as long, I am sure it will be fine. Probably only keep the car another 2-3 years.

 

[shaker281]

Google SENSEN. I haven't replaced front yet but they were the vendor for my 2008 Volvo and the rear struts for my 2014 SHO. OEM Vendor at least for those two miles. I have had good luck with Bilstein's but can't seem to find a quick strut assembly for the Taurus.

I will. Thanks.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

For a one time use I would rent it but USE EXTREME CAUTION. I used the screw/clamp type spring compressor once......ONCE Almost literally lost my head but fortunately became the original bobble head. Take it from me either get a quick strut assembly or have it professionally removed and replaced. Based on my observations the strut will most likely have to be removed to get the spring compressed, might as well just install a quick strut.

I would see if they offer a base type of compressor where you set in the base and slowly compress with a safety barrier.

However you do it I strongly recommend at minimum front wheel alignment after strut replacement. Preferably four wheel but minimum front. That can tell of you knocked anything out of alignment during the replacement. The only thing I remember other than tearing the CV boots but most steps were fairly straight forward.

Remember Do one side at a time and there should be no reason for plenty of pre removal, in progress and completion photos.

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

I just replaced the struts, I have the PP SHO so I went with stock MC PP struts, love them....