Advice needed on sho problems

[PUZ]

Hey everyone,

I am new to the board but I could use some help. I just purchased a non-running 1990 SHO. My question is where to start. The description given to me was that the car started having trouble idling one day (needed to hit the gas to keep it running sometimes, when stopped with the clutch in), and then the next day after a race with a Honda the car lost power and then eventually stalled out, and has not started back up since. I am not new to cars but have not worked on and SHO before. I am going to start by checking the ignition system because it sounds like a faulty coil pack to me but I am looking for any other leads I can get. Has any one had or heard of this problem before. Please let me know.

Thanks a million,
Mark

 

[Bizzy]

First places to check are fuel and spark. Without those you'll continue to have a non-running car. I'm sure you know how to check for spark, fuel pressure can be checked at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.

You might also consider running your codes to see what you come up with. That's the best place to start and will give us a lot more info to go on.

 

[AutoSHO]

Check the timing belt.

 

[PUZ]

Where is the comp connector on this thing? I have a scan tool but I can’t seem to find anywhere to plug it in. I found something in the engine compartment on the pass side (engine side of the firewall) that was close but it was broken, a section of a couple of wires appears to be missing. PLEASE TELL ME THAT’S NOT WHERE IT IS!!!! Thanks for the help so far.

headbang

<small>[ May 12, 2003, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: PUZ ]</small>

 

[qiksho]

First thing I would do is check compression in all cylinders.

Second check spark

Third check for fuel

If you have all three check the codes

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

Driverside, near firewall? Sorry pal, thats where it is. Could it be you crank position sensor?(CPS) Don't worry my friend, someone will help you out. If one of us don't know what the problem is, your car is junked. But it does not sound junked to me. There is hope!

BTW- Welcome to the forum! Good stuff you will find here.

 

[SHO--ripper]

It is on the passenger side of the firewall. It is triangle shaped. What part of CT are you from?I'd be glad to come down this weekend and help you out. thumb

 

[PUZ]

Ahh. Timing belt could be an issue I suppose. I am assuming this is an interference engine though and that would be bad........ Would that go along with my loss of power symptoms, wouldn’t that cause a big bang if it broke? Could have slipped though I guess, yielding no compression, ill have to do a compression test as well.


I am from the New Haven area. Northford to be exact. Many thanks for the offer but im out of the country come this friday so this weekend doesn't work for me. I am going to do some testing for my self before I leave, if I can't figure out whats going on I would love to take you up on that offer when i get back at the end of the month. What part of CT are you from?

 

[Aaron Woell]

The fuel pump could be the problem. Check the pressure with a gauge on the schraeder valve. I made an extension from parts at Home Depot so I could watch mine while I drove. wink

Mine used to die only after reaching a critical temperature, meaning it ran fine in cold weather and at night, but would sputter and die when it was warm or there was not enough cooling air.

Check the easiest things first, and the pump is it!

 

[PUZ]

I need to get my sisters freaking lumina out of the gurage first. Then im going to start working on the SHO. Damn lumina, i hate gm products, freaking water pump bolt broke of in the block......

 

[Emerald94]

It's a non-interference engine.

 

[SHO--ripper]

I am from the northwest corner of CT. A little town called winsted. I also think your fuel pump might be the problem. Can you hear it turn on?

 

[SHO--ripper]

I am from the northwest corner of CT. A little town called winsted. I also think your fuel pump might be the problem. Can you hear it turn on?

 

[SHO--ripper]

Sorry about the double post.

 

[Aaron Woell]

PUZ, midwestsho.com/codes.html has a picture and info for running the codes with a paperclip. It also will show you what to connect, so if the connector is broken you can do it with the wires.

 

[PUZ]

Many thanks for that link. I have those to wires and once i get a batery in the car i should be able to run some codes. Lucking its the left side of the conector which is missing. Where it went i do not know....... frown

 

[PUZ]

hey,

I just got back into town. It turns out i am mising one of the wires i need to run the codes on the check engine light. I have taken a picture of my patial removed wiring harness but i do not know how to post them here??? Where does the upper right wire on the eec-IV conector originate from? I can't seem to trace it down? Please help or advisie..
thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

Refer to the diagram here: http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=83

Which wire is missing?

Steve

 

[PUZ]

according to your link it is listed as the signal return. Thats the one that is missing. I have the hole conector but just that one wire is broken out of it. On a side note, are the other plugs supose to have 2 wires runing in to each port? That looks kinda strange to me.

thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

Yes, the single wire is the "Signal Return". It is routed from the PCM via a splice that also carries it to several sensors within the engine compartment.

The other two pins should have two wires each.

"Self Test Out" should have Tan/Red wires and "Fuel Pump" should have two Tan/Lt Green wires. Thes colors are cosistent between the 89 and 93 EVTMs that I consulted.

Look around and see if the wire is hanging down somewhere back behind the PS pump.

Steve