ABS Valve Body Replacement

[notahemi72]

I need some advice on replacing the ABS valve body that sits under the ABS pump. I got a code 24 and went through the service manual diagnostic steps. It says I have a bad valve body - resistance between pins 7 and 15 is 0 and it should be 5-8 ohm. I got a valve body from Rock Auto. Although advertised as reman, it looks to be a new Ford part packed in a Ford box. The Ford service manual doesn't say how to replace just the valve body - the only thing in the manual is how to replace the entire ABS HCU. Before I start taking things apart I'd like to know what I'm getting into. Are there gaskets that go between the pump and valve body and can I reuse the old ones? I could use any advice on replacing the valve body. Thanks.
93 MTX White/Mocha 317k.

 

[sperold]

Is the part you are talking about also called the modulator? It has the 4 bosses where the brake lines thread into and has an electrical plug.
A lot of brake things have a copper gasket that is reusable. If it needed a new gasket where the pump - motor - mini reservoir bolts onto this thing, it would be included, you would think.
If you don't want to experiment, I would contact Raybestos, as they have part numbers for all the separate parts and should have an exploded or assembly drawing that would show a gasket if there is one.
Your better garages subscribe to a service that is like all the service manuals wrapped up into one program, and it should have the diagrams as well. And your car will be covered by this service, as it is not just for new cars.

 

[notahemi72]

Thanks for the response. I replaced the valve body (modulator) this afternoon. There was a reusable gasket on the pump. Bled the brakes/cycled the ABS/bled again. Firm pedal and no ABS light. The valve body from RockAuto is listed as Raybestos ABS570037 and advertised as reman, but it was a new Ford part, shipped for $148.

 

[sperold]

How hard was it to get that part out of where it is buried on the car. I have always thought that was something you did when the motor was removed. Do you have a list of what you have to do to make this happen?

 

[notahemi72]

I removed the entire HCU including the valve body from the top, but kept the HCU connected to the rubber brake fluid hose from the master cylinder. At that point the hose was the only thing keeping the HCU in the car. I turned the HCU upside down and removed the valve body. To get to that point, from the top I removed the air box, ABS computer/bracket, misc connectors, nuts on the three HCU mounting studs, six brake lines, connector/bracket for wiring from ABS computer to ABS pump; from the bottom I removed the horns and horn bracket but probably didn't have to. The HCU bracket stayed in the car. I loosened the three valve body-to-pump screws from underneath the car before I removed the stuff from the top. No special tools are needed. About three hours to replace the valve body and two hours to bleed brakes, working slowly.

 

[sperold]

Thanks for the write-up on this matter. You make it sound easy.
I think this is one part is more available now than it was a few years ago. When I looked into doing my HCU, only the full assembly was available, and the price was high.
Thanks for the information.
Is your Farmall the small one with the motor off to the side? Kind of a market garden model?

 

[notahemi72]

Farmall Cub with 'Cultivision' which is the marketing term for the offset driveline as you noted.