A few questions from a NEWB

[Wurf]

I'm considering a SHO for my next vehicle because of the AWD and Ecoboost power capabilities. I have some concerns though. I appologize if I'm supposed to search for FAQ first or whatever but this is my first post and I just thought I'd throw this out there.

First off I'm not newbie to performance. I've owned and built a number of SBF motors and had mustangs. Built a Factory Five car powered by a 408 stroker I built myself. Understand carbs and EFI and mass air VS speed density and power adders and boost and detonation etc.

Currently I drive a Mazdaspeed 3 with mild mods and insane torque steer and rather poor winter driving capabilities.

That leads me to my questions.

1. What are the weak points of the SHO Ecoboost motor - pistons, rods, head gaskets, fuel system what.....
2. I am strongly interested in the LMS packages but would like to know what preliminary investigative work I should do to my motor before considering leaning on a used SHO
3. I'm looking to run mid to high 12's with the car and I understand it's a bit on the heavy side. Is this a practical goal with all season radials and stockish fuel system or no?
4. I have heard the brakes on the SHO are not ideal, taking me back to the days of my 88GT mustang here....what's the best bang for the buck to improve them?

That's all for now and TIA.
Shopping for SHOs now.

 

[WojoMojo]

I can try to answer some questions!

1. Tons of people have ran 500+ crank horse (400awhp) with bolt ons + tune and haven't had any engine failures of any kind, and those being daily drivers. Transmission and the AWD system are the main worry if anything. Ford has said these 3.5's can handle 600 crank safely.

2. I bought my 2010 SHO with 50k miles and tuned it at 55k. I drove it those 5k miles to make sure there was nothing wrong that I could get fixed under warranty. Nothing at all! Mine is currently running around 440 crank based on Mustang Dyno numbers (closer to 500 on dynojet numbers) and I've put 10k miles on it tuned with ZERO problems, and I do drive it like a stole it every day. Basic oil changes and filters. Nothing else. All you need to do is change/regap plugs and you're set for tuning and bolt ons.

3. It is a boat, I will agree. It towers over any car I park by, but MAN does it move. I run Nitto Motivo all season high performance tires on my SHO and they're awesome. Easily handles my power and grip very well. I didn't get a chance to run mine on the strip, but I'd expect high 12's with my setup (read my signature for mods). Stock fuel system is actually very good on these cars, and wouldn't need modification until 600+ hp. Most just run methanol injection at those higher levels with stock fuel system and do just fine.

4. I also run my stock brakes. They're good, not great. There are a few vendors that do aftermarket rotors+pads. Unless you're going to run it at the track I wouldn't be too worried about the brakes, as they work just fine to slow the tank from 100+.

Hope this helps somewhat. Good luck shopping!! Had to drive 7 hours one way to get mine

 

[SHOdded]

X2 on above.

Definitely buy a SHO with existing powertrain warranty at the least.

You (or a trusted mechanic) should factor in a PTU/RDU fluid change, especially if the SHO has 30K or over. Unless you know for a fact that the SHO has not been tuned, and has not seen significant time in "race" mode. Then 50K.

Check for signs of turbo seal leak and/or oil accumulation in the CAC/intercooler.

Brakes are better on the 2013+ than the 2010+. If unhappy with performance, usually aftermarket brake pads offer the best bang for the buck. If you are valiant, you can try to upgrade the 2010-12 M/C & lines to 2013+ spec.

 

[Wurf]

Interesting information guys - thanks for the replies!
AWD concerns:
Wife drives a 2010 Mazda CX-9 which uses the Flex drivetrain and the AWD front PTO unit went out just shy of 60K. Started leaking grey fluid on the driveway one day and I quickly figured out what was going on. Warranty covered it and Mazda ( through Ford ) has also extended that warranty to 90K for me which is really great. I was ready to unload it shortly after it happened and it was fixed but that extension changed my mind. Once we get close to 90K though......Also these units are sealed with synthetic fluid that's not supposed to require changing. Ever. So much for that, because apparently that's what causes them to burn up.

This was also one of the concerns I had with the SHO and the Ford based AWD system which I have to imagine is quite similar, albeit I bet more heavy duty. I have zero intentions of tracking this car but buying used, you never know how it was treated and changing the diff fluids seems like a prudent idea. Thanks for that tip.

Good to know the motor itself can mechanically handle mods well and the fuel system is up to task too. This is great info. I have learned it's speed density, which is interesting to say the least.

I was wondering about the stock short block, particularly after looking at the LMS short block, engine **** on their site. Made me wonder if the stock pistons and rods were up to task at higher boost and / or higher than stock HP levels. Would seem the LMS short block is for uber reliable 600hp builds and beyond if that was your goal, or an alternative to a stock short block rebuild, or salvage motor if you blow a motor.

Speaking of that, what are the specs on the stock short block? Hyper pistons, forged rods and crank? Please enlighten me or post some links.

Also is there a consensus on octane for fuel? Most guys with stock tune running 93 or at least 89? I would bet more power available with the higher octane. Stock motor must have knock sensor(s)? I would think tuned for 93 you don't have a choice but wondered about stock.

Thanks Guys!

 

[EcoPowerParts]

Check out my site http://ecopowerparts.com
Pretty easy to hit your number on stock motor, tune, downpipes, meth injection and done, most of the time just tune and downpipes will handle it depending on your local track elevation/weather conditions.

I've not heard of anybody having any engine issues at the power levels you'll be at.

BTW, I was the 2nd BT MS6 back in the day, I still have a profile on MSO forums - 4DRHTRD