A couple of questions...

[DavidT]

#1. My 1990 mtx shifts a little jerky 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd (mainly 1st & 2nd). Is this somewhat common? When I bought the car a few months ago, the owner told me it recently got a new clutch.
#2. After I disconnect the battery and reconnect, the engine stalls repeatedly. All it takes is to engage the clutch (come to a stop) and it stalls. This has happened twice. But after a day of driving, the stalling goes away. Is the computer resetting everything? Is it a bad sensor?
#3. 60k/120k service: I know FORD would charge me out the ***** and I am not mechanically literate to do it myself. I know of a mechanic that is fairly cheap, but not certain if he could tackle such a job. If it were his first time with a sho, would it be unwise to let him do it? I don't think I have any other options if I want it done
Thanks for any input.

 

[Milo]

Dk, I have the same jerking as you, I diagnose it to be a combo of a weak clutch and a broken front motor mount. Where does the clutch engage on the pedal's upward travel? Did you reset the computer when you hooked the battery back up?

 

[luigisho]

For #3 if you absolutely must have it done, and you don't know a SHO knowledgeable mechanic, then I would say get as much SHO info. on the service as possible and have a mechanic give it a try. It's not optimal but sometimes you have to make do with what's available.

 

[DavidT]

Milo,
the clutch engages really high on the pedal. (What I mean is, when I am changing gears, the car is not in gear until the clutch pedal is almost all the way OUT) Does it need to be adjusted? The clutch is supposed to be "new", but I haven't a clue as to how to inspect it. The only way I can get a real smooth shift is to give it a little gas before my foot comes off the clutch. ( I don't like that, that is not good to do... is it?)
Actually, the 2nd time I had the problem with the stalling, I read a post where sdpatt gave instructions how to reset the computer. I did everything he said, and it still stalled until I drove it around for a day.

 

[DavidT]

luigisho,
here is my dilemma: the car has 148,*** miles. I do not know if it has ever been serviced. Outside of a front crank seal oil leak, I do not see any problems. I posted earlier about my sho being slow. It MIGHT be lacking some power, not sure though.
I know my luck though, if I have it done, a domino effect will happen, problems will start. If a problem is "hiding" is it still a problem? wink

 

[sdpatt]

dkautumna:
Milo,
the clutch engages really high on the pedal. (What I mean is, when I am changing gears, the car is not in gear until the clutch pedal is almost all the way OUT) Does it need to be adjusted? The clutch is supposed to be "new", but I haven't a clue as to how to inspect it. The only way I can get a real smooth shift is to give it a little gas before my foot comes off the clutch. ( I don't like that, that is not good to do... is it?)
Actually, the 2nd time I had the problem with the stalling, I read a post where sdpatt gave instructions how to reset the computer. I did everything he said, and it still stalled until I drove it around for a day.

You should try to adjust the clutch cable tension by lifting the clutch pedal firmly with your toes or your hand. If you hear one or more clicks, there has been some slack taken out of the clutch cable and the point of clutch engagement should be lower on the pedal stroke.

Anytime the battery has been disconnected, you must reset the idle speed programming. Let's try the reset procedure again.

1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2) Turn on the headlight switch.
3) Wait at least 10 minutes.
4) Turn off headlight switch.
5) Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
6) Start engine normally (never press on the gas pedal).
7) Allow idle speed to settle for at least 15 seconds.
8) Within 70 seconds of starting the engine, apply all accessory loads the engine will see at idle. Do these concurrently.
8a) Climate control to MAX A/C.
8b) Headlight switch ON.
8c) Turn steering wheel 1/2 turn side to side.
8d) Press brake pedal.
8e) ATX SHOs only: shifter to DRIVE.
9) Do not turn off engine for at least 5 minutes.
10) It is preferable that the car be driven immediately after setting the idle programming.
11) While driving, allow the coolant temperature to rise to the normal range.
12) Run the car through its entire performance range.

 

[naval-avi8or]

I was wondering about the fact that he has to give it some gas to get it to shift sounds like he has a synchronization problem maybe because the clutch cable needs adjusted which is not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

 

[Milo]

I'm thinking the clutch is bad. frown

 

[SHOMurph]

Thanks for the resetting info Scott.

Getting a new battery today. Whew...glad I read this!

 

[snowwind1990]

Did you ever get the 60K done and adjust the slack in the clutch cable...??? or replace your motor mounts??Crank seal replaced yet??
And now you get a ticket??

How come you were speeding with all that going on?
Ma Ma M