A/C System Leak

[Zap]

I was curious if there are any common leak points on the A/C system in the Gen3. I had my system evac'd and recharged with the proper amount of R-134a, and the system was working well for a while, but the weather cooled here and I hadn't been using it much lately.

Now the compressor is cycling rapidly, and a check with the gauge manifold shows low charge, as the high side pressures don't get high enough and the low side trips the cut out switch. They did put UV dye in, so we'll have to poke around with a blacklight, but for now I don't see any oily discharge anywhere, so I'm at a loss as to how I could lose that much without any residue that is visible.

Are the compressor shaft seals known to leak?

If Wisconsin didn't have a BAN on selling small cans of refrigerant, I would have purchased one and topped the system off. I even have my 609, so I can technically buy the stuff, but they only carry the 30 lb. kegs!

Thanks!

 

[SHOZ123]

The lines along the passenger side fender get pretty rusty. Other than that maybe a seal at one of the quick disconnects?

I was lucky I guess. Only maintenance I ever did was a flush and refill once and painting some of the rusty lines while it was still in the car.

 

[Zap]

That's encouraging - I'll report back more once I get to check it out. I have lift time scheduled for Saturday morning and should be able to get anything bad from the local parts houses that shops use.

Here's to hoping that it might be a leaky connection. If we have to evacuate the system, I'd be tempted to replace all of the o-rings and springs to ensure the next one in line doesn't start leaking.

 

[SHOZ123]

I have a set of AC lines that have all been POR-15 painted. If you need them.

 

[PrestonsSHO]

just found my leak at the high low a/c lines to the compressor o-ring.I had put leak dye in mine and its glowing like a christmas tree at the top of the compressor where the 2 lines connect.

 

[SHOZ123]

Maybe you just need a couple O rings?

 

[Zap]

That's what I'm hoping for - we'll find out Saturday morning. Upon inspection, the lines across the passenger side fender look to be in pretty good shape, and I don't see any oil residue on the couplings near the evaporator core. A look at the condenser from underneath also looks clean.

The compressor manifold isn't perfectly clean, but it isn't super greasy looking either. Either way, we'll find it

 

[Zap]

Okay, it looks like one of the lines from the compressor manifold has a slow leak. There was some of the UV dye right at the crimp where the metal hose meets the rubber. I'm gathering that the manifold is probably next to unobtainable or insanely expensive.

Has anyone done/had one of these repaired. I've got an long time A/C guy that was supposed to be helping me, but he ran into some issues today.

 

[Zap]

Well, the plot thickens. I removed the A/C line and took it to a shop that rebuilds them. Said that they couldn't get it to leak under 250 PSI, so I'm back to square one. At least they repainted the section where the paint was going south, so that should keep it going a bit longer.

I'm wondering now if the oil was dripping from somewhere else, like a springlock fitting, onto the hose. If another hose is leaking, at least they are all obtainable and at a fairly reasonable cost.

I'm definitely going to get an o-ring kit for starters.

 

[SHOZ123]

If another hose is leaking, at least they are all obtainable and at a fairly reasonable cost.

Your sources?

 

[Zap]

RockAuto has the Accumulator with line for about $45. The other line was about $55, and the orifice tube is a few bucks.

I realized after taking a closer look that the second line from the evaporator core to the front of the car appears to not be available anywhere either. Nuts.

At this point I'm torn - normally when I redo an A/C system I replace all the lines (at least those with crimps), o-rings, and springs. I've had stellar success with the system holding together for as long as the original (or better).

Now I'm not sure if I should just reinstall the compressor manifold lines that were tested good, and replace as many o-rings and springs as possible and see if it holds a vacuum.

The weather has been a lot nicer lately, but the 80-90's days with full humidity would have really been nice to have A/C. Once the system is holding a charge, we'll see if the compressor needs the shim removed as well.

 

[dlanes]

Mine was leaking at the quick connects, I was going to replace the valve stems, but the caps that came with worked fine so I never got around to replacing the valve. It was $5 for the repair kit.