A/C Shim removal

[Inkertinker]

The A/C took a crap a couple of days ago. Finally decided to remove the shim for the compressor clutch. Did some reading here and did a lot of looking in the engine bay. I was not real excited about lowering the sub-frame, but I could not get a wrench on the clutch nut no matter how I tried. I read that the nut was a 14 or 15 mm so I took some spare 6 point sockets that I had into work. Had Ted (a machinist at work) cut the socket down a weld them on some 1/4 inch flat stock about 16 inches long. The new "tool" was still too wide for the space between the frame and the compressor. I was able to grind the socket down until I had plenty of clearance. With a long screwdriver to I was able to hold the clutch while I broke the nut loose. It worked very well. I did not remove the belt, I did the wrenching from up top and pulled the nut, clutch and shim from under the car. It took several tries to re-install the clutch because I did not notice the change in the spline teeth at first. Once I found that I was able I line-up the notch and the clutch fell right into place. By the way it is a 14mm, the 15mm that is welded in the other works great for serpentine belt removal.

 

[naval-avi8or]

The A/C took a crap a couple of days ago. Finally decided to remove the shim for the compressor clutch. Did some reading here and did a lot of looking in the engine bay. I was not real excited about lowering the sub-frame, but I could not get a wrench on the clutch nut no matter how I tried. I read that the nut was a 14 or 15 mm so I took some spare 6 point sockets that I had into work. Had Ted (a machinist at work) cut the socket down a weld them on some 1/4 inch flat stock about 16 inches long. The new "tool" was still too wide for the space between the frame and the compressor. I was able to grind the socket down until I had plenty of clearance. With a long screwdriver to I was able to hold the clutch while I broke the nut loose. It worked very well. I did not remove the belt, I did the wrenching from up top and pulled the nut, clutch and shim from under the car. It took several tries to re-install the clutch because I did not notice the change in the spline teeth at first. Once I found that I was able I line-up the notch and the clutch fell right into place. By the way it is a 14mm, the 15mm that is welded in the other works great for serpentine belt removal.

So you managed to remove the shim without dropping the subframe or unbolting the compressor and trying to maneuvering it around. Also could you tell me exactly how much space is between the clutch face and the body/frame on the GEN 3. I need to do this with my GEN 2 w/ GEN 3 powertrain and have always wondered if I can get the clutch off to remove the shim before hiting the body

 

[Inkertinker]

I will measure the width of the wrench I had made, there is just enough room too clear the clutch assembly.

 

[SHOZ123]

I had the AC compressor hanging on a wire because the engine was out. It isn't that hard to take the belt off and take the three bolts out that hold the compressor onto the block. You do have to remove the passenger side fan but that is only one bolt and one connector.

An impact wrench will bust the nut loose in no time.

 

[Inkertinker]

The space between the frame and the A/C clutch assembly on my gen3 is 11/16 or 17mm I have no idea with gen2/gen3 combo you will have.
Good luck with your project, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

 

[naval-avi8or]

The space between the frame and the A/C clutch assembly on my gen3 is 11/16 or 17mm I have no idea with gen2/gen3 combo you will have.
Good luck with your project, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Thanks,

just went out and measured and I've got a little over an 1 inch to the face place (not counting the rivets) so I shold have no problem.

There's video of my car driving that floats around here in diferent post. I've had the car driving for a little over a year now and added over 10K since I did the conversion. I still have small non drivability things here and there that I have to tinker with to get working correctly.

 

[naval-avi8or]

The space between the frame and the A/C clutch assembly on my gen3 is 11/16 or 17mm I have no idea with gen2/gen3 combo you will have.
Good luck with your project, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

How exactly did you use/place the screwdriver to hold the face plate. What did you cut your socket down to (in length) to weld on the flat bar.

I just got thru making me a tool and I'm trying to figure out how to hold the face plate, and if I may have cut my socket down to far. Was the bolt tight all the way out or did you just need to tool to get it loose and then run it out by hand.

My gap is at .028 in which is bearly in spec but after it heats up in stop and go traffic it expands just out of spec.

 

[Inkertinker]

OK, I the flat stock was 16 inches long, I used the longest flat screwdriver I had about 13 inches and put it right on top of a rivet. I took a couple tries because the screwdriver would slip. After broke free I spun the clutch with my fingers to unscrew the nut. Mine was really easy to turn.

Dave

 

[naval-avi8or]

Got it all fixed (sorta)!

I ended up having to cut a new socket becuase the first one was to short. I also made a ac clutch plate holding tool. I just took a piece of flat sheet metal stock welded three 1/4" steel pins to it (1 1/16" apart in a triangle) and welded a handle from bar stock. Worked great. I only had one shim and after removing it I could stick a .013" feeler gage in the air gap but I may have been ever so slightly forcing it in. I attempted to modify the shim until it flew across the garage and I couldn't find it.

 

[Inkertinker]

I would like to see a photo of the clutch holding tool. I'm sure it is far better than a screwdriver.