Bluto
New Member
Has, or does anyone know of a belt to bypass the A/C pully?
My a/c compressor seized and it costs a butt load to fix.
My a/c compressor seized and it costs a butt load to fix.
A/C compressor bypass
- Thread starter Bluto
- Start date
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autobahnsho
SHO Victim
The other day I saw a Mustang w/ the compressor removed, there was just a pulley on a bracket in it's place.
But I don't know about the SHO... shrug
But I don't know about the SHO... shrug
svtC_and_SHO_Owner
New Member
ok what you need to do is take out the compressor and basicly saw off the pully, gut the housing and replace the shell of the compressor. as it is part of the front motor mount. you will need a 41in. belt to replace the old one. if you remove all hoses and tanks for the ac you will ditch about 20lbs and gain about 1-2hp from less restriction. but you said your compressor was frozen so it should be a nice gain.
Yamaha V6
SHO Enthusiast
Actually, I used a 42.0 belt on my 89. You may want to see what works for you without bringing the tensioner pulley too close to the underside of the battery. One good engine torque, and the pulley will cut open the battery, spraying acid everywhere (ask me how I know, from my old 95...).
Now, Mark Nunnally mentioned a really good point to me once - the AC Compressor acts as a brace for the front engine mount bracket, making it more solid. I used spacers to remove my compressor completely, but I see where he's going with that, and it makes great sense to put a full brace plate on the front of the spacers, or to hog out the guts of the compressor, keeping the compressor housing on there for support.
Things to think about.
Now, Mark Nunnally mentioned a really good point to me once - the AC Compressor acts as a brace for the front engine mount bracket, making it more solid. I used spacers to remove my compressor completely, but I see where he's going with that, and it makes great sense to put a full brace plate on the front of the spacers, or to hog out the guts of the compressor, keeping the compressor housing on there for support.
Things to think about.
rangerj
Active Member
Bluto,
Unplug the clutch coil electrical connection. The A/C clutch pulley spins freely. If the clutch cannot engage there will be no drag on the engine.
If it is the clutch pulley bearing that is siezed, it can be replaced in the 89-92's. For later model years it may be available if the "proprietary" label has been removed. Check with your local parts stores.
Otherwise the bearing can only be obtained in a new clutch-pulley assembly.
If you are using the car as an every day driver it is nice to have the A/C. If you only use it at the track, then by all means discard the weight. rangerj
Unplug the clutch coil electrical connection. The A/C clutch pulley spins freely. If the clutch cannot engage there will be no drag on the engine.
If it is the clutch pulley bearing that is siezed, it can be replaced in the 89-92's. For later model years it may be available if the "proprietary" label has been removed. Check with your local parts stores.
Otherwise the bearing can only be obtained in a new clutch-pulley assembly.
If you are using the car as an every day driver it is nice to have the A/C. If you only use it at the track, then by all means discard the weight. rangerj
Bluto
New Member
Thanks alot for the responses.
I would rather have the A/C for it is a daily driver.
I however eas looking for a way to get buy until i get it fixed.
The a/c was working great this morning, and then this afternoon it crapped out on me.
It looks like the rubber piece taht pushes the pully back out is schredded and sticking out of the front of the pully.
I wonder if the compressor is possibly good, and the just the clutch assembly is bad?
Any thoughts?
Thanks again.
-Carl
aka Bluto
I would rather have the A/C for it is a daily driver.
I however eas looking for a way to get buy until i get it fixed.
The a/c was working great this morning, and then this afternoon it crapped out on me.
It looks like the rubber piece taht pushes the pully back out is schredded and sticking out of the front of the pully.
I wonder if the compressor is possibly good, and the just the clutch assembly is bad?
Any thoughts?
Thanks again.
-Carl
aka Bluto
SHO_Driver
New Member
Yes, if the rubber surround on the clutch is torn you can replace it and hopefully restore your a/c, provided nothing else broke. About $70 from Ford. I just finished replacing mine, it was harder to crack the center nut with the clutch hanging off the plate. Couldn't use a strap wrench. Had to visegrip the broken plate while loosening that nut.
Bluto
New Member
Thanks!
I may just try changing the clutch assembly.
I may just try changing the clutch assembly.
rangerj
Active Member
Bluto,
You can test the A/C compressor for excessive "drag". It should take 7 ft. lbs. or less of turning torque (84 inch lbs) to rotate the compressor. Note that this is turning torque, and not the torque required to get it started to turn.
If the compressor turns freely within the specification then the problem is most likely the clutch pulley bearing. The bearing is available for the 89 through 92 as a replacement part.
Your clutch face sounds like it is FUBARed. If your compressor is OK, then replace the clutch coil, face, and pulley as an assembly.
Set the gap between the clutch friction surfaces at about .035, and recheck it after the clutch has been engaged a few times.
The clutch pulley and coil are held on with snap rings. The beveled side of the rings should face outward for proper instalation. rangerj
You can test the A/C compressor for excessive "drag". It should take 7 ft. lbs. or less of turning torque (84 inch lbs) to rotate the compressor. Note that this is turning torque, and not the torque required to get it started to turn.
If the compressor turns freely within the specification then the problem is most likely the clutch pulley bearing. The bearing is available for the 89 through 92 as a replacement part.
Your clutch face sounds like it is FUBARed. If your compressor is OK, then replace the clutch coil, face, and pulley as an assembly.
Set the gap between the clutch friction surfaces at about .035, and recheck it after the clutch has been engaged a few times.
The clutch pulley and coil are held on with snap rings. The beveled side of the rings should face outward for proper instalation. rangerj
Bluto
New Member
Thanks Ranger!
I am going to try it this weekend. My hope is to replace the assembly on the car. I don't want to remove the compressor. It looks like a PIA to do on the car.
It will most likey be in the 90's this weekend, so that will make for a fun day.
one question. If the belt is off while I test the turning torque, and the clutch isn't engaged, there should be zero drag on he pully(compressor) right?
<small>[ June 24, 2003, 11:15 PM: Message edited by: Bluto ]</small>
I am going to try it this weekend. My hope is to replace the assembly on the car. I don't want to remove the compressor. It looks like a PIA to do on the car.
It will most likey be in the 90's this weekend, so that will make for a fun day.
one question. If the belt is off while I test the turning torque, and the clutch isn't engaged, there should be zero drag on he pully(compressor) right?
<small>[ June 24, 2003, 11:15 PM: Message edited by: Bluto ]</small>
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