94 SHO MTX - My New Project

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Spartanator

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94 SHO MTX

103,900 miles

Clock doesn't work, but that's an easy fix.

Doesn't look like it's been tinkered with. All keys and even the original owner's manual with the warranty card are in the car. Stock intake, stock radio.

So, needs some advice. I have a leak that you can see in the pix below and I need to get the exhaust fixed, also in pix below. The rear suspension is bouncy to say the least, so I'm sure it needs some suspension work. Anyway, any advice is greatly appreciated!

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Right rear quarter panel rust.

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Pretty sure it needs some rear suspension work :(

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It's leaking, something. Any ideas? I didn't get a closer look, but I saw oil on my garage floor. Not much, just a drop, but enough to make me want to get it fixed.

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The exhaust problem. It's stupid loud right now, so I need to get this fixed. Ideas?

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kevinspann

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Oil leak from the rear of the motor, possibly the rear mail seal.

That rust is in a not great place.

The exhaust...it's hard to tell. Either get a new midpipe put in with a new ******, or a replacement is available. It doesn't look like any of the exhaust piping itself is rusted away.
 

Spartanator

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Oil leak from the rear of the motor, possibly the rear mail seal.

That rust is in a not great place.

The exhaust...it's hard to tell. Either get a new midpipe put in with a new ******, or a replacement is available. It doesn't look like any of the exhaust piping itself is rusted away.

Yeah I was hoping it wasn't the rear main seal. I can imagine that's probably a PITA to fix.

The rust I can deal with. Once I get the exhaust and this oil leak fixed, I plan to get it painted and I'll have the rust fixed.

As for the exhaust, I may just get it welded back for now so I can at least get it inspected and on the road unless I can find a stock replacement on here or online.
 

TimboSHO

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As for the exhaust, I may just get it welded back for now so I can at least get it inspected and on the road unless I can find a stock replacement on here or online.

They make a repair ****** to fix that. The piece on the rear pipe has rotted away and is missing, and the new one is 2 pieces to go around the pipe. You'll probably need new bolts and springs as well.
 

SHOdded

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Looks like the spark plug seals may have failed in the past, so at least a valve cover job's probably been done. Service records?
 

Spartanator

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They make a repair ****** to fix that. The piece on the rear pipe has rotted away and is missing, and the new one is 2 pieces to go around the pipe. You'll probably need new bolts and springs as well.

That's what I thought. I'm guessing this is something a muffler shop can probably weld in place? If so, I can at least get that done tomorrow.

Looks like the spark plug seals may have failed in the past, so at least a valve cover job's probably been done. Service records?

No service records. It had 52,000 miles on it in 1998, and it had the 103k on it now. It recently had an oil change at Koons Ford in Maryland. I found it rotting away at a crappy car lot in Rockville. For $1,800, it was hard to pass up with that kinda mileage.

I plan to go by my local dealer and have them run the VIN and see if they can pull the service records. Meanwhile, I have to get a tag for it, but can't do that until the muffler is fixed. Such is life, a lot to do this weekend.

With all this being said, what should I do about this rear main seal business? It's not pouring out oil, but I'm not sure how long it can wait either. Thanks for all the help, glad to be in the club :wave:
 

kevinspann

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Based on how much it is leaking, I'd leave it alone, unless you feel like doing a clutch. There is also a gasket for the cover on the rear of the engine that the rear main is in, and the oil pan seal. You can also check the low oil level sensor at the firewall side of the oil pan to see if it is leaking, if so, that can be resealed without having to do a ton of work.

Like Timbo said, there is a replacement ****** available. That connection is bolted together. If you weld it, you'll have to cut the exhaust apart to do something like a clutch.

New midpipe is WALKER Part # 45606 goes from y pipe, to the 90 deg. bend in front of the gas tank

The ****** repair kit is WALKER Part # 36128

A thread where it looks like the same thing happened:http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=61499
 
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Spartanator

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Got the exhaust problem fixed and finally got to open her up a little more without it sounding like a V6 rice rocket.

Felt pretty good. Clutch is strong and I was even able to do some rev matching down shifts. So far, so good.

However, I know I have a sticking brake caliper. I heard it rubbing in the rear. Also, the A/C isn't exactly cold, so I gotta find out what's up with that as well.
 

Spartanator

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So another update since I haven't been on here in a while...It needed tires, so I went ahead and got that taken care of. I'm driving it occasionally, and on the drive from Hampton to Petersburg, it drove surprisingly well.

However, it does seem to have a problem with the temp gauge. I'm about to get it out now, but the temp gauge rarely gets into the middle of "normal". I'm inclined to think it's a stuck thermostat. Is this a common problem and is it hard to get to?

Got the brakes fixed. It needed rear discs and pads. Easy fix that I took care of last weekend.

The rear main seal is my next obstacle. I'm going to solicit some help to get this done probably via craigslist. I can inspect the clutch while I'm at it and I can replace it if need be at that time.

Other than that, it's been very rewarding to drive so far. It's far more engaging than my 2010, even though the new(er) SHO moves with a lot less effort.
 

DJSHO91

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However, it does seem to have a problem with the temp gauge. I'm about to get it out now, but the temp gauge rarely gets into the middle of "normal". I'm inclined to think it's a stuck thermostat. Is this a common problem and is it hard to get to?

That's where my 91' normally stays. If you have the climate control on then, even though it doesn't cool, the fan may be staying on. That would keep the temp, in normal conditions, at a steady pace in the middle of normal. Try turning the climate control off and running it stationary for a while. Keep tabs on how the gauge moves. :salute:
 

kevinspann

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Craigslist? Unless you don't have a place to do it. If you do, let me know, I can help with the work.
 

Spartanator

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I have a place to do it, I just don't have the tools and major mechanical repairs aren't my strong suit, but I'm great with electronics, go figure.

At any rate, my house in Hampton (albeit for sale) has a 2 car garage and I have some room to work. Since you're in Richmond, I do have access to the Fort Lee auto skills shop, so that's another option as well.
 

platoribs

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However, I know I have a sticking brake caliper. I heard it rubbing in the rear. Also, the A/C isn't exactly cold, so I gotta find out what's up with that as well.

The sticking caliper may be the flexible brake line, may also be the caliper, but the flexible brake line is known to collapse and prevent caliper release in the rear.
 

KyngofPop

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Good looking project ya got going on there, good luck with it. Glad I opened this thread because I've been dealing with the same exhaust issue and had mine welded :( Didn't know those Walker parts were even available to fix it :)
 

Spartanator

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Good looking project ya got going on there, good luck with it. Glad I opened this thread because I've been dealing with the same exhaust issue and had mine welded :( Didn't know those Walker parts were even available to fix it :)

lol, that's exactly what I had done. Cut out the rotted piece, put in a new pipe and welded it together. Sounds a lot better now than it did prior to.
 

Spartanator

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Long time gents! Uncle Sam has been keeping me busy, but I've got a few things done.

Tint
Replaced all 4 speakers
Replaced the radio
I finally got a working clock off ebay

Slowly but surely coming along. I still have this rust to deal with, but I don't think I'm going to get it painted. Instead, I'm gonna get the rust spots fixed and do a good buff job on her sometime soon before the year is out.

I'll post some pix later today.
 

kevinspann

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I'm curious about that rust. It looks like it started under the paint. Is the inside of the wheel well solid? Mine looks perfect but there are a couple tiny 1-2mm in daimater placed where the paint is bubbled like it's lifting, similar to yours.
 

Spartanator

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I'm curious about that rust. It looks like it started under the paint. Is the inside of the wheel well solid? Mine looks perfect but there are a couple tiny 1-2mm in daimater placed where the paint is bubbled like it's lifting, similar to yours.

The wheel well still feels solid. That's the only reason I'd rather just fix the furst, buff and detail the SHO instead of getting it pained. I just don't want to spend a few grand painting.

Also, which was another sticking point, no pun intended, I fixed my brake caliper on the rear driver side. That was a real PITA with that handbrake cable.
 

kevinspann

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I would think you could get it fixed and blended without having to paint the whole car...
 

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