'89 Speedometer/Odometer Issue

[RonPorter]

I believe this is the right spot for this.....

In the past, I had issues with both of my Gen 2s with speedo cables, and pulling the cluster to get to it was easy. Never did it on the Gen 1, and the Shop Manual is clear as mud, makes it seem you just about have to pull the whole dash to get to it.

Anyway, kinda intermittent. Speedo/odo quit about 100 miles short of St. Cloud in the heat. Started working the next morning, worked all the way home, plus some. Quit for a few days, then worked, then quit again.

Cable connector (between the halves) seems to be tight. Was considering pullling the cable out for a look-see. Any tricks for the IP cluster end of things?

Or any thoughts overall?? Not into taking apart more stuff than I have to!!

 

[Irish Pride]

The entire panel around the cluster has to come off. I did this 3 times in one day the week before St Cloud. Pretty straight forward. Undo the cable connection under the hood and push thru some slack to work with. Remove the kick panel under the column and see if you can get to the back of the cluster to undo the cable. If not the added slack will give you enough to pull it and disconnect it afterwards. The Gen 1 clusters are just a little different than the Gen 2. There is a light bulb socket that connects under the cluster on the Gen 1s. It makes it a little more tight to move it out.

You will need to remove the plastic around the steering column too in order to pull the dash panel. When you pull the panel it just pops straight out. Dont have to worry about breaking any tabs.

 

[mrecoolgar]

Ron, it sounds as if a tooth may have broke off one of the digit wheels.
That's the only thing I can think of.

 

[RonPorter]

Ron, it sounds as if a tooth may have broke off one of the digit wheels.
That's the only thing I can think of.

Both the speedo & odo quit at the same time, so I figure it's the cable.

Been makin' noise since the day I bought it.

 

[TimboSHO]

My 89 would do that sometimes. It always seemed to be noisy, and every once in awhile it would quit and then start working for no reason. I took the two sections of cable apart, and took it off of the cluster (you can pop it off of the back of the cluster without pulling the cluster itself). Then with the cable out of the car, you can pull the metal cable out of the plastic sleeve and **** it (I used some sort of silicone spray). Of course, I inspected all ends and connections, and put everything together nice and tight. Since that, it's been nice and quiet and I haven't had a problem again!

Of course, on my 91 it did that and it ended up that where the cables connected in the engine bay they were all frayed and I needed both new cables, but if you checked that already, then hopefully this helps!

 

[rubydist]

on the plus side, you don't get as many miles showing on your car if the speedo only works part of the time.....

 

[RonPorter]

Eh, lookin' to sell it, so I would like it to work!!

 

[JRA2000TL]

I replaced the cable and swapped the speedo head on my 89 last winter. It wavered all over the place to 140mph then to 0 and all in between. I tried the cable first and that didn't do it, so I had a j/y cluster that I swapped the head from; fixed it for the most part, but the needle is still bouncy between 0-30mph.

I disconnected the cable at the trans, then pulled the instrument panel off, tilted the steering wheel as low as it would go (I did not have to remove the column shroud, but it was a tight fit). Unscrewed the cluster, slid it back, fed the cable from the firewall inward to give me slack behind the cluster, unplugged the 2 connectors on either side, and tilted it at various angles to very carefully clear the steering column. Install was the reverse. I used some oil on the speedo head too when I replaced it. The head itself can be unscrewed from the back of the cluster. I have the old speedo head somewhere in the garage if you want a pic to see how it work from behind.

 

[overthehill]

Speedo cable ****

I have had trouble over the years with the speedo making noise on my '89. It also causes the needle to waver a bit. I disconnected the speedo cable under the hood where the lower section and upper section meet. I pour some parts store speedo cable **** in the short section that goes to the speedo head and the problem is solved. Easier and cheaper than replacing the cable.

 

[RonPorter]

I replaced the cable and swapped the speedo head on my 89 last winter. It wavered all over the place to 140mph then to 0 and all in between. I tried the cable first and that didn't do it, so I had a j/y cluster that I swapped the head from; fixed it for the most part, but the needle is still bouncy between 0-30mph.

I disconnected the cable at the trans, then pulled the instrument panel off, tilted the steering wheel as low as it would go (I did not have to remove the column shroud, but it was a tight fit). Unscrewed the cluster, slid it back, fed the cable from the firewall inward to give me slack behind the cluster, unplugged the 2 connectors on either side, and tilted it at various angles to very carefully clear the steering column. Install was the reverse. I used some oil on the speedo head too when I replaced it. The head itself can be unscrewed from the back of the cluster. I have the old speedo head somewhere in the garage if you want a pic to see how it work from behind.

I guess this is the question, does the panel "pull" off? to get to the cluster?

 

[TimboSHO]

I guess this is the question, does the panel "pull" off? to get to the cluster?

You have to pull both the bezel around the radio and the bezel where the fog lamp/defroster switch are and there are bolts under there. To get both of those bezels off, you have to remove the top bolts on the lower kick panel. Then there are 2 bolts on the top of the panel, and one big nut under the headlamp switch (just pull the **** off). Then either 4 or 6 smaller bolts holding the cluster in.