89 mtx trouble codes

[tjpolzin]

Ok so I tried to get my car smog check the other day and it failed on hc. The 15 mph test passed great at like 56 hc but at 25mph test it failed at 223 hc and that's the only thing that failed so I went home ran the test and got koeo 11, 19, and 33 koer I got 33, 13, and 77 then I did the cylinder test and got 6 flashes. I know 33 is egr so I'm going to take it off and clean it and the ports. 11 is no fault but 13 in the Koer I think said it's the isc? Is that the same as iac? And 19 in the koeo said pcm? Sorry I don't know all the Termonolagy for all the abbreviated stuff lol. And for the cylinder test I did check spark and that's good but that's all I have been able to do. People have been telling me the O2 sensors are bad and that's why the hcs failed but I got no code for o2. I'm thinking it has something to do with the egr and #6 cylinder. Please help I need to get my car registered. Btw it's an 89 mtx the engine was rebuilt in 06 by a ford dealership and the engine only has about 12000 miles on it. But sat for 2-3 years before I got it the first time I got it slogged passed great when I got it. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[rubydist]

13 = not able to control low speed idle, suspect iac problem
19 = cid circuit failure, suspect cam sensor
33 = egr opening not detected, you are on the right track with cleaning ports on that
77 = wot not detected during koer test, suspect operator error

when you run the koer test, during the cylinder balance test it will briefly shut off the spark to each cylinder in order (so #6 is the last one). you should notice a shake when each cylinder is deactivated - did you notice that or is #6 so weak you cannot tell the difference on/off ? if #6 is not firing or not burning the fuel, that would explain your high hc reading.

if #6 is that weak, most likely the rings are stuck and/or it has a bad valve (although valve issues with this motor are rare). if it is stuck rings, you may be able to save it enough to pass emissions with a treatment or two of one of these: AutoRx, Seafoam, etc.

 

[tjpolzin]

Thanks for the response. I do want to say when it shut 6 off I did notice it running a bit rougher, I'll run the test again tomorrow after I get off work to verify. Maybe an injector Is dumping more fuel than it should? And when I was looking at the codes for 19 koeo says something about no vehicle power (pins 37+57) or bad pcm vpwr diagnostics. I didn't get a chance to dig into the car tonight at all so it will have to wait till tomorrow or Saturday morning. I just want to know if I'm going to have to order parts and I'm trying to keep costs down.

 

[rubydist]

I would reset codes (pull off the paperclip while they are still flashing is the easiest way) and drive it for a bit (maybe 30-45 minutes) and check codes again. you want to be sure you are dealing with current codes, not old codes.

the cid failure could be cam sensor, wiring to cam sensor, or pcm - in that order of likeliness in my experience.

 

[tjpolzin]

Ok so I got some time to work on the car I took the egr off cleaned and tested that no problems. Then I took the entire intake off changed the iac, and cleaned egr ports. And also changed the cam sensor. Unplugged the battery for 10 hrs and then drove the car about 30 min or so ran the test again exact same codes as the first time I ran them but now on the cylinder test it says #1, #3, and #5 are having problems. And 6 doesn't pop up anymore. I am overwheled with sensors right now.

 

[SHOdded]

Might want to take off and reseat the intake. Easy to get a wire or two caught in there and get false readings.

 

[tjpolzin]

Ok so I verified there is nothing getting in the way of the intake and engine. I have had a bog in my rpm range frome an idle to wot right at the beginning it bogs down sometimes pops from the exhaust side and then revs up just fine if you hit the gas as its decelerating it revs fine only when it's from an idle to wot. I ran the cylinder test again and it said only cyl #3 is having a problem I've ran the test 3 times and have gotten a different result every time this is really confusing me now. Could the O2 be bad if it's not throwing a code for it? Could it be clogged cats (I hope not they cost too much) I really want to get this fixed. During driving it runs great but it's mainly the smog issue I don't have a lot of $$ so paying another 35 for a smog for a maybe sucks.

 

[rubydist]

the bog when you first hit the gas sounds like a flat spot on the tps. I would put a ohm-meter on the tps and watch it closely as you very slowly open the throttle all the way. the resistance should change very smoothly - if there are any jumps or spikes, that will screw up the computer and you will get flaky throttle response.

the oxy sensor will not set a code after only 30 minutes of driving. take an hour or more drive - that may not even be enough, depending on how bad the oxy sensor really is.

does the engine idle smoothly? if so, I would not worry about the cylinder balance test just now.

 

[SHOdded]

Time to clean, grease, and reseat the DIS? Ground from that side of the intake to the firewall?

 

[tjpolzin]

Sorry I haven't posted anything I've had some things change in my life that prevented me from getting on here. So the ground wire to the fire wall is good. And if I remember correctly there is a thread on here somewhere on how to test the tps I'll do that asap. But when u say to remove the dis and re grease it what do you use for the grease a standard thermal paste like they use on computers or is there something specific?

 

[SHOdded]

Standard computer thermal grease works well. Arctic Silver, for example. Keep it thin just like with CPUs.

 

[snowwind1990]

pass the test

Nuke with the guaranteed to pass test stuff at autozone or oreally's. only have about 7 gals gas when starting this routine. drive for 20 miles at exactly 55 mph. stop and do the stupid test....that is turn key on..... no crank...turn lights on offon off 3 times,, pump brake pedal, 4 times, turn steering wheel three times right left right left right left, turn all electronics off, radio, cd, ac, heat all of it....wait a minute or so. now crank. drive about 20 mins or so to get to normal temp operation temp and go right in for test...don't worry, as long as the cats got hot enough and stay that way til test time...........and voila a Pass the Test miracle.........don't change anything, sensors nothing, and believe.

 

[tjpolzin]

Sorry for the late reply but I got it to pass smog!! Barely but it did(1 point under max) I ended up changing the O2 sensors and re seating the Cid with the thermal paste and tps drove it 40 miles and was good thanks for all the help. Now I have to deal with the clutch fml