802SHO 2010 Build
- Thread starter 802SHO
- Start date
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Yeah it’s pretty nice that they do all the grunt work to figure out the ECU and then sell their software for you to have access to it all, to tune it yourself or bring it to any tuner of your choice. Right now they don’t have canned tunes for mine yet. A pro tuner on their software just made some nice numbers on the dyno and he’s just getttjng started, he just remapped the limits and it’s at about 400hp and 530 wheel torque. Nobody makes upgraded turbos, downpipes for it (yet). Makes sense though, crack the ECU first.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Yeah that is pretty par for the course. I would bet since that domino has fallen, PPE will probably be getting ready to start downpipes. Might want to give them a call and inquire.
Got word last night my transmission is all set!! Kevin is going to drop it off. **** yeah!!
In the meantime I bought two new hub/bearing assemblies for the rear, new transmission lines and thermostat that attach to the trans, new rear upper and lower control arms and I might replace the rear knuckles and rear axles. That would leave the steering rack, starter and alternator, coolant reservoir and coolant hoses as the only original parts with 76k miles. More or less. That’s nuts! Not a 100% restoration but pretty close!
Switched over to rattle cans and laid down Ford Gray on the trans mount brackets, front subframe mount brackets and front swaybar and brackets. 1 more quick 2 coat session and ready to install back on the car.
Not sure it’s noticeable but I painted the engine bay and inner and outer fender areas Low Gloss Black. To make sure I didn’t get overspray on the car I covered 2/3 of the car in plastic and sealed off the garage door with plastic and a fan with oversized filter.
Before:
After:
It worked out great with the fan pulling the overspray out and the filter did its job
Black filter now lol! Right now half of the rear suspension is out, removing the rear subframe to get dropped off for sandblasting and I’ll rattle can it Ford Gray.
In the meantime I bought two new hub/bearing assemblies for the rear, new transmission lines and thermostat that attach to the trans, new rear upper and lower control arms and I might replace the rear knuckles and rear axles. That would leave the steering rack, starter and alternator, coolant reservoir and coolant hoses as the only original parts with 76k miles. More or less. That’s nuts! Not a 100% restoration but pretty close!
Switched over to rattle cans and laid down Ford Gray on the trans mount brackets, front subframe mount brackets and front swaybar and brackets. 1 more quick 2 coat session and ready to install back on the car.
Not sure it’s noticeable but I painted the engine bay and inner and outer fender areas Low Gloss Black. To make sure I didn’t get overspray on the car I covered 2/3 of the car in plastic and sealed off the garage door with plastic and a fan with oversized filter.
Before:
After:
It worked out great with the fan pulling the overspray out and the filter did its job
Black filter now lol! Right now half of the rear suspension is out, removing the rear subframe to get dropped off for sandblasting and I’ll rattle can it Ford Gray.
This is such great news, can i have your headlights?
They are original. I looked at possibly replacing them just bc and I was seeing close to $100 for each. With 76k miles I’m sure they are fine. They look very robust, not your average suspension bushing.
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Looking sharp. As expected.
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
Amazing attention to Details!
Dropped off the subframe for sandblasting. It’ll be nice when I’m done and the undercarriage looks like new. 
All of this is getting replaced. Bought the knuckles and axles and they’re on their way. About $1,600 to replace all this. But with everything new upfront…can’t let these toasty parts remain.
Got the subframe and front sway bar back on the car. Looking good
And Kevin dropped off the transmission last night! Let’s go!
All of this is getting replaced. Bought the knuckles and axles and they’re on their way. About $1,600 to replace all this. But with everything new upfront…can’t let these toasty parts remain.
Got the subframe and front sway bar back on the car. Looking good
And Kevin dropped off the transmission last night! Let’s go!
Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
Send it!
My way... address, DM'd
Autox4fun
SHO Member
If you have any openings in the bushings, 3m window weld can help - motor mounts, drive shaft bearings, etc... just a little more support from movement
cure time is a in a day or so, being its thicker in spots - and designed for a bead application on a windshield
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000074326/
great tip. I already added some to my engine mount and my top trans mount is completely metal now so don’t need it there. Driveshaft though is a good idea. I’ll try that
Rear subframe is ready for pick up, plus I had their brackets powder coated and the metal brackets for the rear diff
Just surface rust really so it was worth having it blasted rather than replaced. Making progress on degreasing the undercarriage to get ready for paint. The center and passenger side is degreased but the driver side isn’t….hard to tell but it’s mostly just dirty.
Overall for a New England car it’s in very good shape. Most of what I’m degreasing is fluid film off of it. But there is some surface rust towards the back of the car. Once it’s all degreased I’ll hit the rust with a wire brush and use rust reformer on it. When all the rust is coated I’ll wipe everything down with acetone and rattle can with the same low gloss black rustoleum farm and implement weather heavy duty paint. Trying to get a ton done in the next 21 days….bc @Jordan_R is coming June-24-26th to help me get it running or as close to running as possible! Thanks Jordan…I needed a deadline for a massive motivational push to get this done!
Just surface rust really so it was worth having it blasted rather than replaced. Making progress on degreasing the undercarriage to get ready for paint. The center and passenger side is degreased but the driver side isn’t….hard to tell but it’s mostly just dirty.
Overall for a New England car it’s in very good shape. Most of what I’m degreasing is fluid film off of it. But there is some surface rust towards the back of the car. Once it’s all degreased I’ll hit the rust with a wire brush and use rust reformer on it. When all the rust is coated I’ll wipe everything down with acetone and rattle can with the same low gloss black rustoleum farm and implement weather heavy duty paint. Trying to get a ton done in the next 21 days….bc @Jordan_R is coming June-24-26th to help me get it running or as close to running as possible! Thanks Jordan…I needed a deadline for a massive motivational push to get this done!
This got out of control. I always wanted a ground up type of build, clean inside and out. Not nearly as fancy as the pro builds, no roll cage, no chromoly subframes, still got factory glass, etc. I got probably 10 hours in degreasing this. 
Stripped, only thing left is the brake lines. Mask tomorrow, paint Friday. I got a 3’x3’ sheet of .090 thick 6062 aluminum coming to make my delete panel. I checked around, found a BMW delete panel that they just bolt on, out of .090 thick aluminum.
So I’ll just make the same thing for myself, by myself and mount my fuel cell to it. Can reinstall the fuel cell and fittings and then just bolt it into place. Will need to do some sort of bracing in the near future to stiffen the rear of the car, also rear strut tower brace.
Stripped, only thing left is the brake lines. Mask tomorrow, paint Friday. I got a 3’x3’ sheet of .090 thick 6062 aluminum coming to make my delete panel. I checked around, found a BMW delete panel that they just bolt on, out of .090 thick aluminum.
So I’ll just make the same thing for myself, by myself and mount my fuel cell to it. Can reinstall the fuel cell and fittings and then just bolt it into place. Will need to do some sort of bracing in the near future to stiffen the rear of the car, also rear strut tower brace.
Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
While you’re in there you better just weld in a cage before the track forces you to.
I mean by this point obviously anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I mean by this point obviously anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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