8 ABS codes (intermittent abs light)

[tompumped]

The abs light on my car started coming on when I first start the car and staying on. If it doesn't come on when I first start the car it stays off the whole ride.

I just ran the codes and got a code 22, 31, 33, 35, 37, 43, 63, and 75.

22-LH front inlet valve
31-LH front sensor
33-RH rear sensor
35-LH front sensor
37-RH rear sensor
43-RH rear sensor
63-Pump motor speed sensor
75-LH front sensor


In the past with other cars i've had issues with wheel speed sensors and abs valve body going bad. Thankfully because of the forum I was able to find the test procedure to do a resistance test on the valve assembly and I found an open.

I'm guessing in this situation I should replace the computer and check my battery and charging system. I read in another thread someone had issues because of battery or charging issues.

 

[rubydist]

boy, with all those codes I would start by checking the connector to the abs computer and if that looks good I would replace the abs computer.

 

[tompumped]

After I ran the test I pulled off the connector and checked it. Visually it appears to be in the same condition it was when I last pulled it to attach the bleeder tool.

I think I have a spare I can get my hands on next weekend. Thanks

 

[kevinspann]

Yeah I would swap the computer as well. There are a couple plugs under it that can get corroded as well, at least one of which goes to a relay. I had different codes at different times with my module - swapped it out for another and never saw the ABS light again.

 

[tompumped]

I put in another module and it's still the same thing basically. Now I have codes 22, 31, 44, 43 and 63.

In the thread explaining how to pull the codes it states there is a hierarchy as to which codes to attack first. If anyone knows that would be much appreciated.

So far I did the diagnostic test for the code 22 and the resistance was within spec, but the light wasn't illuminated. I'm going to have to wait for the fault to occur then resistance test the valve. If it is bad I have a known good valve block. I was fully expecting the valve to be bad because on another car I had the same valve go bad, but it wasn't intermittent.

 

[kevinspann]

I had a 22 as well, I don't think it triggered the light.

I believe you start with the lowest numbered code first and work your way up - I would start at 31 and go from there. You can't exactly do the testing as described in the manual, since it calls for a breakout box (unless you have one) but fortunately the pins on the connector for the ABS controller are sort of numbered - I think every 7-10th pin is numbered.

 

[tompumped]

I tested resistance on the valve when the light was on and it was still reading between 5-8 ohms. In two days the light hasn't come on. I checked the tone rings and they are good, no cracks. One thing that started happening was the abs was engaging at very low speeds so I thought it was a cracked ring because in the past that was the problem.

I have a breakout box. You actually need the ford/rotunda bleeder tool to use in conjunction with the box because the ecm plug is different than the abs plug. Thankfully I had both and I was able to perform the test for the valve. It was the first time I used the b.o.b.

It would be pretty bad if the abs computer I got off ebay was bad also. It's a possibility seeing as the codes were different with this box. I'll figure it out and post back when I do.

 

[tompumped]

I fixed this a while ago, and it's hard to believe, but it was the LF abs sensor causing all those codes. I guess the way it malfunctioned was what set off so many codes. I have no explanation for how the codes differed from computer to computer.

I should've known from experience slow speed engagement is either rings or the sensor.