60k Update, Timing Belt Question, and SFB

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Dr. Tweak

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Well, I did some more work yesterday and today. Everything went really well I have to say.

Yesterday I finished my AL SFBs. They look really great! I can't wait to try them out. This is what came out, check out how bad they are:
bushings.JPG


Pretty sick huh? Especially the driver's rear bushing. (Pics are relative, bottom left is driver's rear.)

When taking off the four 10mm nuts, some of them were so bad that the studs that come up through the subframe just kept spinning. With a lot of patience I managed to get some vise grips on the little tabs (you'll know what I mean when you see them) underneath and hold them still while I carefully loosened the nut. It took a while. Do I hear a cutting disk in order? ****

On to the 60k!

Well I got the tensioners off, etc. How do you guys get the bolts loose on the waterpump pulley? I ended up tightening the belt up, putting the car in gear, and that gave me enough pressure to get them loose. Just curious how you all have done it?

Anyway, here is my timing belt. I have a new one ready to go on, but this one looks really good, at least I think so. There are no cracks or marks whatsoever. Should I return/sell my new timing belt and go ahead with this one? shrug It looks like it wasn't done very long ago.
timingbelt.JPG


One more thing, the fool who took the timing belt cover off last forgot one of the bolts, does anyone have a spare bolt for the upper cover that they don't need?

<small>[ December 10, 2003, 07:19 PM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>
 

91taurisho

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JDLangevin:


On to the 60k!

Well I got the tensioners off, etc. How do you guys get the bolts loose on the waterpump pulley? I ended up tightening the belt up, putting the car in gear, and that gave me enough pressure to get them loose. Just curious how you all have done it?

Anyway, here is my timing belt. I have a new one ready to go on, but this one looks really good, at least I think so. There are no cracks or marks whatsoever. Should I return/sell my new timing belt and go ahead with this one? shrug It looks like it wasn't done very long ago.

One more thing, the fool who took the timing belt cover off last forgot one of the bolts, does anyone have a spare bolt for the upper cover that they don't need?
When I recently did my 60k I loosened the water pump pully with a wrench on one bolt and a socket on the next... I had to just put the wrench on and pull up while I loosened the other bolts. The last bolt was the same way just pulling one bolt up with the wrench.

Replace the belt but keep that one as a spare in the trunk!(Just in case. thumb )
My cover is missing a bolt too and whoever did that also cracked the **** out of the middle cover... The right side(closest to the radiator) Is completely cracked off. Its still there and the bolts are holding it in. The gasket that goes on the bottom of that one(in between that and the lower part) is also still there, holding the broken part in place too.
 

TYSHO

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Hardware store should have a new bolt for it. That's where I went to pick up mine to take the crank sprocket off. Take it up there and you'll find a match, hopefully. If not, ask and look around. thumb
 

Bizzy

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lay your timing covers out on the gound and take a picture then draw an arrow to the one you need. I'll look in my parts ccloset and see if I have the right one. Some are longer than others. Then again you could go timing coverless for the weight savings and ultra cool look of the timing belt being right there.
 

Dr. Tweak

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lol yeah that is cool, all the AE86 guys like doing that, but it looks way cooler on RWD cars cuz it's right in front... burnout

Anyway, it is the far far left hand bolt. All of them on the upper cover are the same anyway I beleive. thumb


beer
 

shojuan

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When I did my 60K at about 148k miles the timing belt (the original) looked fine. It's pretty common for them to look fine despite age and high mileage. That doesn't mean they're not stretched. Also keep in mind that an old belt is more prone to breakage whether it looks good or not.
 

Dr. Tweak

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While I'm sitting here, I came up with a few questions. First, I keep hearing this about aligning the subframe? If I understand correctly, I need a 3/4" dowel and I stick this into the hole next to the front SFB and this will align the subframe, right? And this is only on the front of the subframe, not the rear, right?

And I didn't paint my AL SFBs. Should I? They use a lot of salt on the roads here and I do plan on using is a little bit in the wintertime.

Thoughts?


What I should be doing: sleep
 

projectSHO89

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To align the subframe, I just used my big 1/2" drive extensions. A 1/2" (I.D.) piece of iron pipe will work great.

Just have all four SF bolts loosened, then use the "tool" to maneuver the complete SF until the holes in the SF are directly in line with the holes in the body. Tighten and torque the SF bolts and you're done.

Any corrosion on aluminum is going to be surface only. I wouldn't bother painting them unless you want to do it for appearance reasons.

Steve
 

Dr. Tweak

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Ok now to double-check, these holes in the subframe, they are the ones right behind the front SFBs, right? burnout
 

sdpatt

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The timing belt on the 3.0L SHO engine should be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals to maintain the accuracy of the valve timing and regain the power that can be made. Old belts stretch and effectively retard the camshaft timing in relation to the crankshaft. For the $35 cost of a new Gates T248, you can have the original timing and power back in your engine. This is one of the best "bang for the maintenance buck" parts on the SHO.

If you move the subframe you will need to have the car realigned.
 

Dr. Tweak

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Ok now to double-check, these holes in the subframe, they are the ones right behind the front SFBs, right?
Ok, thanks, but I'm still not sure on this ^

There are only two holes, right?
 
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