3.0 to 3.2 conversion - Why change these parts?

[DJ SHO]

I've heard you need to use the 3.0's timing belt tensioner on the 3.2 when doing the swap. Why?

Also, why use 3.0 pullies? Wouldn't the 3.2 run just fine on it's one serpentine belt driving it's original components, or is this done because of clearance problems?

Now I know Mark always tells us that the 3.0 and 3.2 are "the same", therefore taking everything off of your 3.0 and putting it on your 3.2 (just like if your 3.0 was bored to a 3.2, it would still have all the same stuff on it). And you would keep everything under the hood the same. But in my case, since I'm going to run my original 3.2 that's already in the car, put in an MTX subframe, and do the MTX conversion, why would I need to change anything that's on my motor now? You have to remember the 3.2's have one belt and different accessory brackets. My question is, would I have to change everything over to a 3.0's configuration just because of clearance issues or is it something else?

I have a lot of people giving me positive thoughts about this conversion and want to make sure everything is covered that needs to be. It will make mine and Drew's job (Mainly Drew's ) go smoother knowing we got everything setup correctly.

Thanks

 

[Chrisssssssss]

I think that the pullies had to be different because of the location of certain components (alternator) However I am not really sure what is protaining to you because you are kinda doing something different than I did. Ask Mark (drivinhard) he's the man. I will be as much help as I can.

 

[SHODUDE]

You have to use a 3.0 belt system because of the engine mount and sub-frame issue. I.E. Its different that a MTX subframe. The alternator/ACcompressor/Engine mount bracket is different from the ATX and won't allow for the MTX mount.

I THINK you have to move to a 3.0 timing tensioner because the oil pump has to be changed therefore not allowing for a 3.2 auto tentioner that works by using oil pressure. That's just a guess though.

 

[sdpatt]

SHODUDE:
I THINK you have to move to a 3.0 timing tensioner because the oil pump has to be changed therefore not allowing for a 3.2 auto tentioner that works by using oil pressure. That's just a guess though.

Actually, no. The 3.2L timing belt tensioner is a self-contained gas pressurized piston much like a hood strut. The picture below shows the tensioner piston in the compressed positon with a 3/32" drill bit holding it in place. The tensioner piston provides the proper belt tension throughout the life of the belt. No other tensioning tools are required.

 

[Splitz]

would it be possible to use an engine mount from a ATX on the MTX sub frame, so you could keep your accessories?

 

[SHODUDE]

Why does the 3.0 timing belt need to be ran then? I am doing a 3.2 conversion in a couple of weeks as well.

 

[drivinhard]

Going from memory here, but I think it all traces back to the front mount bracket. You have to use the MTX mount bracket for the front mount, when you do this, you can't use the ATX water pump and inlet, so when you put the MTX pump in place, you can't use the 3.2 timing belt lay-out since the pulley in the upper right hand corner gets in the way of the MTX water pump and inlet.

Even if you could use the 3.2L stuff I'd still use the 3.0L, simply because it's easier to work on down the road.

Also you can actually use the 3.2L oil pump if y ou don't mind if you have an open spot between the timing covers and the pump. The 3.0L fits correctly though.

 

[pete c]

So, the 3.2 uses a single belt for clearance reasons? I assume this is because the slushbox needs more room, pushing the engine towards the passenger side. If this is so, wouldn't it be possible to leave all the auto tranny stuff including subframe? Or would that cause a problem with half shaft length? Seems almost like it would be worth it to make custom length halfshafts if this is the only reason to go through all this bs.

 

[SHODUDE]

Makes perfect sense Mark. Thanks.

 

[Sho-N-Go]

Yes It traces down to the engine brace in the back for the Halfshaft bearing. If you bolt the right brace up it hits the oil pump. If you change the oil pump you have to change belts. and so on. Just went through this. It is well worth it though

 

[DJ SHO]

Thanks everyone. This has been helpful.