225

[SeanMc]

Knock Sensor Not Responding.

Would this cause drivability issues? Coming home last night after having my CID and IAC replaced (thank you LoudSHO92 and SHOkid13), my tach started jumping all over the place and the car stuttering and even dying. With the bad CID on there, it didn't do this. Possible that I got a bad CID? Or is it really my knock sensor shorting out? SHOkid13 and I stopped by my place and looked down into the block and saw that the KS is hanging on by a thread. Let me know, quick!!

Thanks,
Sean

 

[sdpatt]

The knock sensor will not cause that problem. A loose connector or bad ground on the DIS module or a failing DIS module could cause that condition. You will need to retrace the steps done during the CID service if that condition did not occur previously.

What do you mean that the knock sensor is "hanging on by a thread?" The code 225 during the KOER test means that the KS did not detect a knock event. There may not have been a knock event to detect, so that is why the test states that if you don not hear knock during normal driving to disregard that code.

 

[SeanMc]

With all the rigamaroll last night, we are all pointing to failing DIS. The connectors are fine.

"Hanging on by a thread" meaning that the wiring looks like it's just barely holding on to the sensor.

Thanks man.

 

[SHOZ123]

Don't know if this applies to the EEC-V programming but on my '97 when I failed to reconnect the KS it would default the timing advance to a maximum of 20 degrees as opposed to the usual +30. It also set a code.

 

[SeanMc]

Don't know if this applies to the EEC-V programming but on my '97 when I failed to reconnect the KS it would default the timing advance to a maximum of 20 degrees as opposed to the usual +30. It also set a code.

I don't doubt that, but my tach was all over the place, and the car would stutter. It would go from 4500 down to 1500, down to 500, then to 7000, and then die. It would fire right up but start the same behavior shortly after moving, but after you get going, it would die again only to not start up again. I pulled over, opened the hood to let things cool down, and guess what? She fired right back up again and I got home just fine. I drove it to work this morning and you'd think nothing was wrong...Autozone has a DIS module for $82.99, I may just pick that up and give it a whirl before digging into the block to get at the knock sensor.

 

[SHOKYLE1]

The knock sensor will not cause that problem. A loose connector or bad ground on the DIS module or a failing DIS module could cause that condition. You will need to retrace the steps done during the CID service if that condition did not occur previously.

What do you mean that the knock sensor is "hanging on by a thread?" The code 225 during the KOER test means that the KS did not detect a knock event. There may not have been a knock event to detect, so that is why the test states that if you don not hear knock during normal driving to disregard that code.

I second this guy